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Been here 1 1/2 years and now FINALLY with the x39 rifle now on order :) (first Saiga for me)

 

How HARD is it to do the G2 single-hook trigger parts swap with the standard on the x39??

 

Anyone use the TAPCO kit?? Do I need anything else besides this kit?? (shepards thing, springs)

 

KIT Link

 

Anything going to 'FLY' out?? How longs the process USUALLY take?? I don't own a dremel, just a few screwdrivers a punch and a hammer.

 

Wanting to change trigger for 922r (+3) and plan on not doing the Pistol Grip conversion at this moment and just go with the TAPCO Interfuse T6 for $60 adj. butt-stock/PG combo (+2 on 922r) for now and UTG quad-forearm (null) and DPH Phantom Flash-Hider.

Edited by YouWontHearItComing
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you probably should get a dremel. The cost of having someone else do a conversion is more than enough to justify the price tag.

 

that and i recomend getting a retaining plate, they make putting it all back together much easier. You'll have to modify your BHO to allow the saftey to go in last though(dremel makes this easy). You'll also need a drill bit or 2, you can either use a drill, or some people have said they got away with using the dremel.

 

have you seen any of the videos on how to do a basic conversion? maybe you should start by reviewing those.

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Just looking at the install directions. The SPRING looks CONFUSING. Maybe I'll get my sister (who has patience with small dollhouse parts) to do this for me :)

 

I don't really understand what a dremel would be for if I'm getting a single-hook and not a double though??

 

I noticed the KIT does not come with the 'PLATE'..... Anyone on here sell the G2 Single kit with the PLATE??

Edited by YouWontHearItComing
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Look for an AK retainer plate. They run about $10 and can shave half an hour off the job. Longer if you aren't experienced.

 

The dremel is nice for flattening the rivets, but a flat file, center punch, and hand drill can do it too.

 

The little disconnector spring can fly out. I've removed 2 and was able to keep a hold of it so it's possible. Just requires persistence.

 

You could simply flat file the hammer to clear the BHO lever, but it might take a while.

 

As for Nailbombs comment on having to clearance the BHO lever for the safety: I don't think anything needs to be notched to clear the safety on the rifles, only the shotguns.

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Sister has dremel I can borrow.

 

Tac47tactical (on here) has G2 and Plate for $42 total.

 

Do the trigger pins punch out or GRIND out??

 

Why file the HAMMER for the BHO lever?? Thought G2 was drop-in/replacement??

 

Just need clarification please.

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Sister has dremel I can borrow.

 

Tac47tactical (on here) has G2 and Plate for $42 total.

 

Do the trigger pins punch out or GRIND out??

 

Why file the HAMMER for the BHO lever?? Thought G2 was drop-in/replacement??

 

Just need clarification please.

The standard Tapco G2 is an AK (no BHO) trigger group. It also doesn't come with a disconnector spring. You have to compare the hammer to the hammer you remove from your rifle, and grind down the ejector side of the axle tube to clear the BHO lever.

 

You should ask Tac47tactical if the hammer he is selling is already modified.

 

The rear factory location trigger pins can be punched out, or you can chisel them up and punch them through, or you can just drill lightly through the rolled flare. If you drill with the right size bit you run less of a chance of bending the receiver, or scratching the finish around the pins.

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He has the Tromix for $45 that says modified HAMMER included. be like $59 total for all then I guess.

 

Guess this would save me time with fiddle'n with the hammer. Is the time worth an extra $15 thats the ??

 

I like the word DROPIN for the Tromix and I know Tony ain't no slouch with this stuff...

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He has the Tromix for $45 that says modified HAMMER included. be like $59 total for all then I guess.

 

Guess this would save me time with fiddle'n with the hammer. Is the time worth an extra $15 thats the ??

 

I like the word DROPIN for the Tromix and I know Tony ain't no slouch with this stuff...

 

Yeah the tromix trigger group is nice. That's what I used in the S 12 in my avatar. No messing with the disconnector spring, no grinding. Literally just drop in. Great deal if it comes with the retainer plate as that alone runs $10. An unmodified FCG is going to end up costing almost $35 after shipping.

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Another question. I wasn't planning on doing a PG conversion at this time just the FCG with Tapco Fusion Buttstock/Pistol combo for $60.

 

Will the standard G2 Tromix FCG work or do I need a SPECIAL one for non-modified Saiga's?? Read it both ways on here...

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Another question. I wasn't planning on doing a PG conversion at this time just the FCG with Tapco Fusion Buttstock/Pistol combo for $60.

 

Will the standard G2 Tromix FCG work or do I need a SPECIAL one for non-modified Saiga's?? Read it both ways on here...

 

 

There is no replacement FCG for factory sporter location. All AK triggers have the hook on the same piece. The Saiga trigger pushes a lever which pulls up the hook, 3 separate parts...

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Hobbyshooter:

There is no replacement FCG for factory sporter location. All AK triggers have the hook on the same piece. The Saiga trigger pushes a lever which pulls up the hook, 3 separate parts...

 

Dinzag has a FCG for non-modified Saiga's Sporters (aka no-PG conversion) on his site

 

Part# FCGNPG1 on his site. For non-mod'd Saiga's.

 

Thats what I may need to order.

 

Just want to order the right ANIMAL... HELP!!!

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You said:

 

Wanting to change trigger for 922r (+3) and plan on not doing the Pistol Grip conversion at this moment

 

 

If you're not moving the FCG forward, then you'd need to get Dinzag's modified G2. It only counts as 2 US made parts, as it still uses some parts from the factory FCG. Regular G2's (or any regular AK FCG, for that matter) will not work in an unconverted Saiga.

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Hobbyshooter:

There is no replacement FCG for factory sporter location. All AK triggers have the hook on the same piece. The Saiga trigger pushes a lever which pulls up the hook, 3 separate parts...

 

Dinzag has a FCG for non-modified Saiga's Sporters (aka no-PG conversion) on his site

 

Part# FCGNPG1 on his site. For non-mod'd Saiga's.

 

Thats what I may need to order.

 

Just want to order the right ANIMAL... HELP!!!

 

Sorry, I didn't think about that.

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This is from Dinzag's site:

 

The Saiga factory config FCG's count as 2 compliance parts, the disconnector and hammer, which are marked USA. The trigger block is included, but the trigger has been milled off. It shouldn't be counted because the original factory trigger and wishbone linkage are still used.

 

If you want the modified FCG, for use in unconverted Saiga's, it will give you 2 compliance parts. It's part# FCGNPG1, on this page http://dinzagarms.com/misc_parts/fcg.html .

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You said:

 

Wanting to change trigger for 922r (+3) and plan on not doing the Pistol Grip conversion at this moment

 

 

If you're not moving the FCG forward, then you'd need to get Dinzag's modified G2. It only counts as 2 US made parts, as it still uses some parts from the factory FCG. Regular G2's (or any regular AK FCG, for that matter) will not work in an unconverted Saiga.

 

Yeah thats what I figured. and yes +2 only for 922r compliance. Tapco Fusion Stock will be only +1 and getting the US gas Piston for another +1 on the 922r. Thats 4 total so i'll be at 10. Using UTG Quad rail so thats a NULL. Going Surfire route first for +3 anyway but may grab a few reg. AK mags as well pending funds... Can't forget the ammo... ughhh.

 

Anyone know how the stock trigger mates/attaches to the Dinzag 'trigger block' part ???

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I can't figure out why you aren't going ahead with the full conversion? You are buying the trigger group right? Why not pick up a $10 grip, a $8nut and screw and be done with the whole conversion? You can get a Cheap tapco stock , also US part and you're done!

Good luck Bro.

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Moving the trigger guard/rebend??? More holes to grind/bang on and plugs. The repaint?? Ummm. I dunno??

 

The plugs are easy enough. You just push them in by hand.

 

For the trigger guard, checkout saigatechusa. I think he's going to be releasing trigger guard+grip nut all in 1 pieces for all calibers of the Saiga.

 

I have one of his first run aluminum guards on my '08 4 port 12 gauge and I love it! I reused the factory guard on my .223 and it wasn't that hard. I didn't have to drill any holes either. I just took my time and chiseled the factory guard off (the front weld will make or break you on this piece), cleaned it up with the bench grinder, and bent it enough to fit a screw through the middle hole that already existed in the receiver. The front just jammed up under the mag release and was quite tight.

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After I get it in my hands and massage it .. oooohhhhh. ahhhh. Then I will go in... Lol

 

3-4 weeks out till I get it. I will consider it when I pull her apart and look inside.. Hopefully not like last stripper (2 easy).. (21 yo. btw.) Haha

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I should clarify. I did have to drill through the rivets, and through the front weld in the trigger guard. Once the holes are drilled you drill the head completely off the rivet, and pop it through using a punch & hammer. The front weld it more tricky. I used a nice flat screw driver and chiseled it up. If you try to bend it up to pry it off you will just break the guard and have to buy one anyhow. That's what happened to my 4 hole '08 12 gauge.

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Moving the trigger guard/rebend??? More holes to grind/bang on and plugs. The repaint?? Ummm. I dunno??

 

Bending the TG back into shape is cake. Just try not to mangle it too much.

 

You're not actually cutting any holes into the receiver. (Unless you do a bullet guide, but that's easy enough too)

 

As for the refinish........I left the unfinished spot, under the old "plate", just like it is. Sure it's not purdy, but I know I don't care. I did refinish the receiver of my S12 after converting it though. Masking off the receiver, hanging it up with an old coat hanger, shaking up a spray can and spraying it down doesn't get much easier.

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Any suggestions.

 

Going conversion more than likely after several POSITIVE posts on ease.

 

I want a T-6 style in Sand/Tan colored stock but they are hard to find on REPUTABLE sites.. I only want the stock and PG (not the handguard). I fyou can find a T6 folder in TAN/SAND I'd be happy too. Options ya'know.

 

Seen the T6 in TAN/SAND but not on same sites as the PG in SAW in TAN/SAND color.

 

Any site/ideas?

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Any suggestions.

 

Going conversion more than likely after several POSITIVE posts on ease.

 

I want a T-6 style in Sand/Tan colored stock but they are hard to find on REPUTABLE sites.. I only want the stock and PG (not the handguard). I fyou can find a T6 folder in TAN/SAND I'd be happy too. Options ya'know.

 

Seen the T6 in TAN/SAND but not on same sites as the PG in SAW in TAN/SAND color.

 

Any site/ideas?

I just finished my conversion (.308, not x39) and I can tell you that it was both easier and harder than I expected. Easier in that all the work was more simple than I thought. Harder because the charger for my hand drill blew.

 

I recommend just going for it. What you need: 1/4th " cobalt (or other metal drilling material) drill bit. About $4 up here.

The FCG. ~$40 to $55. I got mine from Dinzag. Very pleased.

FCG retention plate: $12 from dinzag, IIRC. You can skip this if you like messing around with the retention spring inside. I bought this on faith on the recommendation of several posters. I DO NOT REGRET IT. The damn retention spring was almost as much of a pain in the rear as not having a drill.

 

Needle nosed pliers. They simply help get stuff out of the receiver.

 

Drill or dremel. Ideally both.

 

Pistol grip, grip nut, and pin. Got mine from dinzag.

 

That's pretty much it. As mentioned I hit up Dinzag for my bits. Got here quite promptly, and I'm pleased. All in all it was easier than I thought. Only scary bit was drilling the hole for the trigger guard. . . but I wasn't worried too much about that.

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