It just so happens I picked up a second Saiga a few weeks ago and had the time to convert this one and take some half-assed pictures along the way. I wanted to do this one on a tight budget. In order to do this cheap, I decided to do the work my self, and reuse the trigger guard, and mod a FCG myself. Before doing anything on the conversion, I first took 'er to the range for a test fire. This is a 4 port gun and runs like a dream!
I hope that this will give some guidance to those searching for it. There is a ton of helpful information on this board that helped me out, and I hope to add to it in my own way with this post. This isn't meant to be all inclusive, but only to offer some insight on how I did my last conversion. I offer this record of what I did without warranty for what happens to your gun if you decide to replicate what I did.
Also, if anyone has any info to add to this post, PLEASE DO SO!!! I am a rookie and this was only my second conversion. I know that I still have a lot to learn. Thanks for your time, and I hope this helps!
Make sure you follow all safe firearm handling procedures when attempting any firearm modifications! Check your local, state, and federal laws and make sure you are in compliance! Here is a guide to help you! I take absolutely no responsibility for anything bad that happens to you, your gun, your dog, etc, etc, etc.
- 1/2" drive hand drill
- 3/16" drill bit with pilot tip
[*}3/8" drill bit with pilot tip
- Dremel rotary tool
- Dremel cutting bit
- Dremel conical grinding bit
- center punch
- rubber mallet
- flathead screwdriver
- needle nosed pliers
- metal file
- Tapco G2 Single Hook Fire Control Group
- Tapco Original Style AK Stock
- Tapco Original Style AK Grip
- Tapco AK Grip Screw and Nut
- DPH Birdcage Flash Hidder
- Tromix Gas puck
First we have to remove the factory sporter stock. In my short time on this forum, I have seen quite a few people ask how to accomplish this. Most people seem to overlook the fact that there are 3 screws holding the factory stock.
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After removing the dust cover, it at first looks as though there is only one screw on the top of the receiver. Once we remover the recoil spring guide the third screw is revealed.
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After removing all 3 screws, sometimes it is necessary to give the stock a few love taps with a mallet to loosen it up.
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Hopefully by this point you have already removed your bolt carrier and bolt as well. If not, now would be a good time. Now it's time to remove the Fire Control Group retaining pins. To do this, you need to lift the retaining spring out of the way. I had a jard time taking pics of this while I was doing it, so please forgive the poor quality.
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While holding the spring out of the way, tap the pins out from the right to the left like this:
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Make sure you save these pins. You will need them when installing the Tapco G2 FCG.
Now with the factory FCG removed, it's easy to see that all we have left is the linkage which is riveted in place.
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It's time to take out that drill and 3/16" bit, along with those needle nose pliers. In this picture you can see the pilot tip on the bit. When using a hand drill, this really helps keep your hole centered.
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Remember to keep the drill speed low, and take your time. While drilling, use the pliers to hold the rivets from inside the receiver so that they don't spin.
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All you need to drill out is the rolled edge of the rivet on the right side in order to tap out the pins. I recommend removing the rivets, then drilling the holes out the rest of the way so that you can fill them with the 3/16" nylon hole plugs later.
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If you're lucky, you will be on center and just pop off a little ring from the rolled edge
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Now we're down to a lot less moving parts. This means it's time to take off the trigger plate and trigger guard. There are 3 rivets holding this assembly in place.
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Take your Dremel and cutting disk, and start at the rivet towards the back of the receiver. Keep the disk parallel with the bottom of the receiver and have a steady hand while you take off the head of the rivet. Once the head is removed, use your center punch and mark the center of the remaining rivet. Finish drilling it out with the 3/16" bit and drill. Next, lift the trigger guard up and do the same to the next rivet. Finally, take care of the last rivet in a similar fashion. When you are done, save the trigger guard for the next step.
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Here is where I got creative with the Dremel, and fashioned the trigger guard and safety stop for reuse. I took thi pic before I cut off the rear most hole on the trigger guard. Make sure you remove that tab so that your pistol grip will fit.
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After painting your newly designed trigger guard, it's time to install it. I'm guessing there are going to be a bunch of people that disagree with the way that I reattached my trigger guard, but it works for me. I used 3/16"x1/8" aluminum rivets. After installing the rivets, I chopped off their heads inside th receiver with my Dremel. I made sure not to go so low that i compromised the rivet, but enough that I got a clean, flat surface. I also made sure to rivet the front hole first, then bend the guard straight and get the back one.
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In the last few pics, you probably noticed that I drilled the hole for the pistol grip nut. I measured the hole more or less by sight, and marked it with a pistol grip nut. Then I used my center punch to mark the center before drilling the 3/8" hole. After drilling the hole, I used my Dremel to square it off, and a file to smooth it out. I did a really shitty job at this. I'm glad it is hidden by the grip once everything is said and done. It works, and that is what I was concerned with.
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Once I was done, I hit everything with a couple coats of paint to try and hide my mistakes.