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Moe Zambeak

Step-by-Step Conversion with Pics!

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It seems like there are many first time Saiga owners looking for some advice on how to move the FCG forward and install a pistol grip on their S12.

 

It just so happens I picked up a second Saiga a few weeks ago and had the time to convert this one and take some half-assed pictures along the way. I wanted to do this one on a tight budget. In order to do this cheap, I decided to do the work my self, and reuse the trigger guard, and mod a FCG myself. Before doing anything on the conversion, I first took 'er to the range for a test fire. This is a 4 port gun and runs like a dream!

 

I hope that this will give some guidance to those searching for it. There is a ton of helpful information on this board that helped me out, and I hope to add to it in my own way with this post. This isn't meant to be all inclusive, but only to offer some insight on how I did my last conversion. I offer this record of what I did without warranty for what happens to your gun if you decide to replicate what I did.

 

Also, if anyone has any info to add to this post, PLEASE DO SO!!! I am a rookie and this was only my second conversion. I know that I still have a lot to learn. Thanks for your time, and I hope this helps!

***Disclaimer***

Make sure you follow all safe firearm handling procedures when attempting any firearm modifications! Check your local, state, and federal laws and make sure you are in compliance! Here is a guide to help you! I take absolutely no responsibility for anything bad that happens to you, your gun, your dog, etc, etc, etc.

 

Tools used:

  • 1/2" drive hand drill
  • 3/16" drill bit with pilot tip
    [*}3/8" drill bit with pilot tip
  • Dremel rotary tool
  • Dremel cutting bit
  • Dremel conical grinding bit
  • center punch
  • rubber mallet
  • flathead screwdriver
  • needle nosed pliers
  • metal file

 

Parts used:

  • Tapco G2 Single Hook Fire Control Group
  • Tapco Original Style AK Stock
  • Tapco Original Style AK Grip
  • Tapco AK Grip Screw and Nut
  • DPH Birdcage Flash Hidder
  • Tromix Gas puck

 

Step 1:

First we have to remove the factory sporter stock. In my short time on this forum, I have seen quite a few people ask how to accomplish this. Most people seem to overlook the fact that there are 3 screws holding the factory stock.

 

post-3-12750622878474_thumb.jpg post-3-12750622900929_thumb.jpg

 

After removing the dust cover, it at first looks as though there is only one screw on the top of the receiver. Once we remover the recoil spring guide the third screw is revealed.

 

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After removing all 3 screws, sometimes it is necessary to give the stock a few love taps with a mallet to loosen it up.

 

post-3-127506229862_thumb.jpg post-3-12750623012941_thumb.jpg

 

Step 2:

 

Hopefully by this point you have already removed your bolt carrier and bolt as well. If not, now would be a good time. Now it's time to remove the Fire Control Group retaining pins. To do this, you need to lift the retaining spring out of the way. I had a jard time taking pics of this while I was doing it, so please forgive the poor quality.

 

 

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While holding the spring out of the way, tap the pins out from the right to the left like this:

 

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Make sure you save these pins. You will need them when installing the Tapco G2 FCG.

 

Step 3:

 

Now with the factory FCG removed, it's easy to see that all we have left is the linkage which is riveted in place.

 

post-3-12750623317966_thumb.jpg post-3-12750623359782_thumb.jpg

 

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It's time to take out that drill and 3/16" bit, along with those needle nose pliers. In this picture you can see the pilot tip on the bit. When using a hand drill, this really helps keep your hole centered.

 

post-3-12750623411589_thumb.jpg

 

Remember to keep the drill speed low, and take your time. While drilling, use the pliers to hold the rivets from inside the receiver so that they don't spin.

 

post-3-12750623438729_thumb.jpg post-3-12750623469673_thumb.jpg

 

All you need to drill out is the rolled edge of the rivet on the right side in order to tap out the pins. I recommend removing the rivets, then drilling the holes out the rest of the way so that you can fill them with the 3/16" nylon hole plugs later.

 

post-3-12750623508105_thumb.jpg

 

If you're lucky, you will be on center and just pop off a little ring from the rolled edge

 

post-3-12750623531946_thumb.jpg

 

Step 4:

 

Now we're down to a lot less moving parts. This means it's time to take off the trigger plate and trigger guard. There are 3 rivets holding this assembly in place.

 

post-3-12750623705046_thumb.jpg

 

Take your Dremel and cutting disk, and start at the rivet towards the back of the receiver. Keep the disk parallel with the bottom of the receiver and have a steady hand while you take off the head of the rivet. Once the head is removed, use your center punch and mark the center of the remaining rivet. Finish drilling it out with the 3/16" bit and drill. Next, lift the trigger guard up and do the same to the next rivet. Finally, take care of the last rivet in a similar fashion. When you are done, save the trigger guard for the next step.

 

post-3-12750623730812_thumb.jpg

 

Step 5:

 

Here is where I got creative with the Dremel, and fashioned the trigger guard and safety stop for reuse. I took thi pic before I cut off the rear most hole on the trigger guard. Make sure you remove that tab so that your pistol grip will fit.

 

post-3-12750623759166_thumb.jpg

 

Step 6:

 

After painting your newly designed trigger guard, it's time to install it. I'm guessing there are going to be a bunch of people that disagree with the way that I reattached my trigger guard, but it works for me. I used 3/16"x1/8" aluminum rivets. After installing the rivets, I chopped off their heads inside th receiver with my Dremel. I made sure not to go so low that i compromised the rivet, but enough that I got a clean, flat surface. I also made sure to rivet the front hole first, then bend the guard straight and get the back one.

 

post-3-12750623787805_thumb.jpg post-3-12750623818019_thumb.jpg

 

Step 6:

 

In the last few pics, you probably noticed that I drilled the hole for the pistol grip nut. I measured the hole more or less by sight, and marked it with a pistol grip nut. Then I used my center punch to mark the center before drilling the 3/8" hole. After drilling the hole, I used my Dremel to square it off, and a file to smooth it out. I did a really shitty job at this. I'm glad it is hidden by the grip once everything is said and done. It works, and that is what I was concerned with.

 

 

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post-3-12750623907581_thumb.jpg

 

Once I was done, I hit everything with a couple coats of paint to try and hide my mistakes.

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Step 7:

 

Now it's time to hack up the Tapco G2 FCG.

 

post-3-12750631644781_thumb.jpg

 

If you notice, there isn't a disconnector spring included with the kit. You need to reuse the spring from your factory kit.

 

post-3-12750631674722_thumb.jpg

 

On the regular AK hammer, there is a bump that needs to be removed for the hammer to properly strike the firing pin. While you have your Dremel in hand, don't stop there. The right side of the hammer needs to be ground down for clearance and prevent rubbing the BHO. I used the factory hammer as a guide.

 

post-3-12750631706193_thumb.jpg post-3-12750631734443_thumb.jpg

 

While I was at it, I decided to polish the hammer face, and the part of the hammer that makes contact with the sear. I did this to improve smoothness of trigger pull, and smoothness of the action. I did not remove any material from either surface.

 

post-3-127506317634_thumb.jpg

 

Step 8:

 

Now it is time to reassemble the FCG and BHO. To be honest, there was no way I could take pictures of myself doing this. I was too busy swearing. Instead, I will provide a link to an awesome video that helped me.

Step 9:

 

Time to pat yourself on the back, you did it!!!

 

post-3-12750631791817_thumb.jpg post-3-12750631819012_thumb.jpg

 

post-3-12750631839673_thumb.jpg

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I'd like to be the first to say great job on the write up, it must have taken some time to do. Everyone that is reading this: It's not as hard as you may think!

Edited by Racer 27

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I'd like to be the first to say great job on the write up, it most have taken some time to do. Everyone that is reading this: It's not as hard as you may think!

 

 

Thank you very much!!!

Edited by Moe Zambeak

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Best write up and pics I have seen. I just did my first conversion after looking a everything I could find and yours would have cleared up some of my initial questions. Sticky??

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total cost...?

 

 

I had the Tromix Puck, Tapco Stock, and AK PG laying around. My other S12 is a 3-holer and I went with the KA Puck. The Tapco stock is too short for me, and I constantly get smacked in the face with the dust cover release button. :chris: I still like the look of the classic AK stock, I just have to save up for the KVAR NATO length.

 

To more directly answer your question, I went to CSS and added up all the parts involved. It came out to $163.70.

 

I traded a Mini-14 for the S12. I paid $400 for the Mini YEARS ago. It was the only .223 gun I owned. With Ammo supply the way it is, I decided to keep everything to a limited number of calibers to make it easier to stock up and keep supplied.

 

So I guess to come up with a total cost for me, not including what I paid for the parts I had on hand, it would be $437.90 :wub: Not a bad price for the results, IMO.

Edited by Moe Zambeak

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The Tapco stock is too short for me, and I constantly get smacked in the face with the dust cover release button. :chris: I still like the look of the classic AK stock, I just have to save up for the KVAR NATO length

 

I found the tapco stock to be quite small also so I modified the end and installed a grind to fit limbsaver. Just the right length and I'm able to shoot hundreds of rounds without even feeling anything on my shoulder.

 

Post 13 here:

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showto...st&p=256468

 

The gun:

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?act=at...st&id=23283

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I found the tapco stock to be quite small also so I modified the end and installed a grind to fit limbsaver. Just the right length and I'm able to shoot hundreds of rounds without even feeling anything on my shoulder.

 

Post 13 here:

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showto...st&p=256468

 

The gun:

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?act=at...st&id=23283

 

Damn bro, that looks awesome! I am definitely going to give that a shot! Thank you for the great tutorial with pics!

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Great post. Very clear pictures, well written instructions. I'm sure this will be a aid to some newer members.

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Thanks again!

 

If anyone has any more information to add, please do so. I'm hoping this thread will include as much info as possible so that we can help people out buy making one all inclusive source of information.

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total cost...?

 

...To more directly answer your question, I went to CSS and added up all the parts involved. It came out to $163.70.

 

...

 

Moe, thats just about what I paid for parts from Dinzag and that included a fully modded FCG ready to drop-in.

 

I also will note one very important thing: Check the height of the screw/rivet on the front of the trigger guard inside the receiver. I had screws on mine and it protruded a bit too far such that I wasn't able to push my bolt carrier back in when I tried to reassemble it. That screw/rivet, if it is too long will prevent the hammer from going all the way down into the receiver to allow the bolt carrier to slide forward. That took me a whole day to figure that one out.

 

BTW, that's a nice PG hole. Mine was a LOT uglier. Good thing its covered by the PG.

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BTW, that's a nice PG hole. Mine was a LOT uglier. Good thing its covered by the PG.

 

 

Thanks! I know what you mean about it being covered, LOL!

 

I trimmed the top of the trigger guard rivet to try and avoid any interference. It worked flawlessly when I test fired it.

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Thankyou for the great write up. AWESOME.................

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Thankyou for the great write up. AWESOME.................

 

 

No problem!

 

I wish I could have taken better pictures, but it was hard to do while working at the same time, LOL! I also didn't want to F-up my good camera.

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Nice Job Moe.

 

Of course, you could save yourself some work with the Tromix DIY trigger guard! lol

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Nice Job Moe.

 

Of course, you could save yourself some work with the Tromix DIY trigger guard! lol

 

 

LOL!

 

I know. and the Tromix FCG.

 

I wish I could find one of the Tromix AK-74 muzzle devices for it :wub:

 

I'm going to piece this one together and go for the more true to form AK look. It is going to be a while before I can afford the Dinzag RSB.

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I am trying to add this to my new user FAQ but it won't let me edit it for some reason? As soon as I can get it updated I will throw this in there. Good job.

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Best instructions I have found. This writeup actually adresses the saftey/selctor stop which was actually one of the things that was postponing my conversion. Great job explaining the trigger and BHO aswell.

A++++

 

Better than the Cross-Conn writeup IMO.

 

Awesome job.

Edited by FCZJ

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Thanks again!

 

If anyone has any more information to add, please do so. I'm hoping this thread will include as much info as possible so that we can help people out buy making one all inclusive source of information.

I have seen a conversion (also with excellent pictures, like yours) done on this site Saiga 223 Conversion , but I noticed a difference in where the front of the trigger guard went. Both are good, but this one really moved the trigger guard clear forward, and right underneath the magazine release.

This is a good article too, that also helps to address what to keep and what to pitch. This link: Trigger Move is about 7 pages into the process, but shows what I am talking about with the difference. Really a worthy look.

Vern

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