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Step-by-Step Conversion with Pics!


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WOW! Thank you very much Moe, I just completed my conversion with all of my stuff from Dinzag. Your step by step made it a breeze, although I chickend-out and ordered the trigger guard kit too(truth is, I broke it...)

 

All in all, I'm glad I saved this one for my first post, I'll put up some pictures soon.

Edited by Nevsky
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Step 7:   Now it's time to hack up the Tapco G2 FCG.     If you notice, there isn't a disconnector spring included with the kit. You need to reuse the spring from your factory kit.     On

It seems like there are many first time Saiga owners looking for some advice on how to move the FCG forward and install a pistol grip on their S12.   It just so happens I picked up a second Saiga a

One suggestion: When removing the trigger guard, only grind off the rear two rivets, then use a Dremel cut-off wheel to carefully cut through the plate in front to remove the trigger guard. This leave

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Excellent right up.

 

I have a question being a complete newb to the S12. I just picked one up a couple weeks ago. At the time or purchase, I also bought the Tapco collapsible stock packaged with a pistol grip. It took about 30 mins to put everything on and required no modification to the receiver.

 

I tapped out the stock rear buttstock with a rubber mallet and nut driver. I then pushed in the new tapco stock. I had to drill three pilot holes into the plastic on the inserted end of new stock and re-installed the three screws into the holes where the original stock screws went. The pistol grip was as simple as turning a 2" self tapping screw into a hole on the new stock.

 

The grip lined up perfectly around the trigger guard, is very sturdy, and looks great. Total cost was around $75 and even included a drill bit and all necessary hardware. I personally prefer the adjustable stock to a collapsible so that the length can be suited to the shooter.

 

Again, being a newb... What is the advantage to moving the trigger guard and FCG forward vs what I did? I see a lot of different stocks and pistol grips available that are significantly more expensive and require a whole lot more modification to install.

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I want to say great job on your write up of this topic and on the details you covered. After reading this thread, I had a fairly good sense of how to go about doing the conversion myself. It saved me quite a bit of money considering the asking price of local gunsmiths who are comfortable doing this job. For my first time dealing with the modification of a weapon, I think I did fairly well. Thanks.

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Thank you for the excellent write up.

 

It gave me confidence so I went out and got a brand new Saiga 12 at the gun show. I also got a bag full of parts that will cover the 922 rules. I odered an Ace collapsable folding stock for the Saiga 12 also. Their web site says no modifications needed to install their hardware. Anyone have any experience with the Ace setup?

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this was a great write up thanks moe.... i converted my s12 last saturday and tested it at the range sunday and the truth is i was hesitant about converting because i firmly believe in the "dont fix it if it isnt broken" attitude. Then i sat around in the garage and eyeballed it and found your post and said it will never break so why not just do it. i did it and now im never looking back unless i get an iz-107 for trap, skeet, sporting clays, and ducks. thanks again and great write up.

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In the video he said something about having to grind on the inside of the receiver "only on the 12 ga". To keep it from rubbing.. Whats that about?

 

Im wondering about this too...

 

also, I could swear I read somewhere that you have to grind something off the BHO to make it work, but now I cant find it. These 2 things are whats holding me back from finishing mine.

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In the video he said something about having to grind on the inside of the receiver "only on the 12 ga". To keep it from rubbing.. Whats that about?

 

Im wondering about this too...

 

also, I could swear I read somewhere that you have to grind something off the BHO to make it work, but now I cant find it. These 2 things are whats holding me back from finishing mine.

 

I did this last night. If I'm reading these posts correctly, it goes like this:

 

You have to grind a part on the safety so you have clearance to get by the fire control group when you swing the safety into position when you are putting it back together. 10 seconds with a dremel.

 

YOu have to grind a notch in the BHO to allow room for the safety to pass by it when you are putting the safety back in.

 

Go looks at the videos at carolina shooters supply

 

Videos

 

You follow these instructions and it's easy as pie. Even the bolt hold open spring isn't that bad...unless you have fat fingers or something.

Edited by Boomstick12
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Completed my conversion last night using this and other posts as a reference, thank you very much for the time and effort you put into it. And now, GUN PORN:

 

Magpul buttstock

Hogue pistol grip

Tromix trigger guard

UTG quad rails

Tapco fire control group

Tac47 Auto-plug gas regulator

Poly Choke II "Breacher" choke

 

224448_10150315687596826_683056825_9097171_3509313_n.jpg

 

285417_10150315688326826_683056825_9097179_7562096_n.jpg

 

224585_10150315687931826_683056825_9097175_7756673_n.jpg

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"Take your Dremel and cutting disk, and start at the rivet towards the back of the receiver. Keep the disk parallel with the bottom of the receiver and have a steady hand while you take off the head of the rivet. Once the head is removed, use your center punch and mark the center of the remaining rivet. Finish drilling it out with the 3/16" bit and drill. Next, lift the trigger guard up and do the same to the next rivet. Finally, take care of the last rivet in a similar fashion. When you are done, save the trigger guard for the next step."

 

 

 

Grate right up, A tip I have is instead of "Next, lift the trigger guard up and do the same to the next rivet". Take a large crescent wrench at the spot weld and twist it off like a bolt. That will give you full access and won't tweak the guard if reusing.

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I'm new here and just bought a basic IZHmesh Saiga 12 and it sucks out-of-the box.

Anyone know where I can get the complete conversion kit at a reasonable price. I paid $550 for the gun.

Did I get ripped off?

And is this conversion something ANYONE can do or is it too difficult?

Edited by stargate
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I wish i paid 550 for mine, lol

I did the conversion from watching the utube videos and it was pretty easy except i had take it all back aprt to modify the bolt lever to get the safety in. And neither of the trigger guards i had would work with a bb so I had to chop up the tromic guard, until i figure someting out.

When I was done I was going to shot it, buuuuuut I have a left over part. LOL Its says in the manual that its the "spring" Was i suppose to have this left? Any help would be nice since now I cant shot it until i figure this out for sure.

I had to edit, I believe its listed just spring the manual. Its got 6 or 7 coils with a long 2-3" straight part one way and a small 1/2" straight part pointing in the other way. Sorry for my lame post.

Edited by whitedpalms
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I wish i paid 550 for mine, lol I did the conversion from watching the utube videos and it was pretty easy except i had take it all back aprt to modify the bolt lever to get the safety in. And neither of the trigger guards i had would work with a bb so I had to chop up the tromic guard, until i figure someting out. When I was done I was going to shot it, buuuuuut I have a left over part. LOL Its says in the manual that its the "spring" Was i suppose to have this left? Any help would be nice since now I cant shot it until i figure this out for sure. I had to edit, I believe its listed just spring the manual. Its got 6 or 7 coils with a long 2-3" straight part one way and a small 1/2" straight part pointing in the other way. Sorry for my lame post.

 

I just finished mine and I believe the spring you mentioned was the original retainer spring. Did you get a retaining plate or a sheperd's crook with your conversion?

 

Thanks as well to all the experience in this thread, made things alot simpler032.gif

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Wow what a great thing to find. I just did my S12 on my living room floor with my son supervising. Have to say that this helped me a lot. Without this I am sure that I would have lost that dang BHO spring while trying to put it back in. Thanks again for this great post. I will get pics up soon as I get my stock should be here beginning of the week.

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One suggestion: When removing the trigger guard, only grind off the rear two rivets, then use a Dremel cut-off wheel to carefully cut through the plate in front to remove the trigger guard. This leaves the original safety stop in place (held on the receiver by the third rivet that you did not grind off). This saves $$$, time and effort, and is cosmetically appealing. I have shamelessly exploited the OP's photo from Step 4 to illustrate:

 

WheretocutTG.jpg

 

Here is a picture of mine done this way:

 

Saiga12PGcloseup.jpg

 

I have a question about this method. How is the front of your trigger guard attached to the receiver? It looks like it may be spot welded, because I can't make out a button head screw or any fastener really.

 

I have converted my 223 and 308 and in both instances I was able to reuse the original trigger guard, by drilling through the mag catch tower and bolting the front tab inside it, but the 12 is different, and I see that there is not really much room inside the receiver to put a fastener through where you have your front tab. There's a trunnion-like block in there.

 

I had thought that I'd have to get an aftermarket trigger guard for the 12, but saw this post and I like the idea, and look, of the factory trigger guard, not to mention it saves more money for other things. However, I'd be more inclined to use button head screws than aluminum rivets in the OPs example, but I'm concerned that the thicker nut I'd be using on the inside would interfere with the hammer. Your solution to leave the front rivet intact and remove the plate while leaving the selector stop avoids that concern, but then what's holding the front of the trigger guard onto the receiver?

 

I wasn't attracted toward the thought of cutting my own pistol grip screw square, although I think it's arguably a stronger method than the two or three screw aftermarket setups, but this thread made me want to give it a try. If I have a plan for the front trigger guard fastening, I'd cut the square hole and reuse the original guard. Another possibility for me is adding the square hole and using the MD Arms trigger guard, for looks, economy and a potentially more robust pistol grip attachment method than the combined grip screw/trigger guard versions, although maybe not as robust as a welded reinforcement plate style setup.

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