MT Predator 2,294 Posted June 14, 2009 Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 I recently purchased a set of G3 sights from another forum member to put on my S12. Is there any tips or tricks to heat/bend/fit the front sight to match the profile on the gas block? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MT Predator 2,294 Posted June 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 Anyone? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 You just cut the middle loop and weld it on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bayoupiper 738 Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 You just cut the middle loop and weld it on. A thumbscrew gas plug????? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shades_of_grey 1,092 Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 (edited) ^ Yeah, I noticed that too. Edited June 15, 2009 by post-apocalyptic Quote Link to post Share on other sites
skiboatsp 111 Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 You just cut the middle loop and weld it on. The H&K sight is only .800 + or - a few thousands The saiga gas block is 1.00 it won't fit properly You can machine or use drum sanding rolls to fit to the larger radius Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MT Predator 2,294 Posted June 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 It's already cut, the radius is too small, have to try the drum sanding metheod on a drill press as I don't have the machining equipment. Just wondering if guys were heating and forming as opposed to milling/sanding it out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 Pretty malleable, it's easy to make it fit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 A thumbscrew gas plug????? You guys didn't see that in my "weaponlight project" thread? It flips between the two settings, no tools Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gunfixr 76 Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 I looked a just cutting it to fit, but the base would be pretty thin afterwards. As Bob said, they're pretty malleable. Tony might have a die, I don't know. When I formed it, it didn't match exactly, so I then finished cut it to fit. Still pretty thick that way. You just gotta be careful forming it, not to crush the top loop. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
skiboatsp 111 Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 I looked a just cutting it to fit, but the base would be pretty thin afterwards.As Bob said, they're pretty malleable. Tony might have a die, I don't know. When I formed it, it didn't match exactly, so I then finished cut it to fit. Still pretty thick that way. You just gotta be careful forming it, not to crush the top loop. I made a mandrel to fit inside of loop to keep from deforming but found taking off more material on the side and machining radius to fit seemed to look better Quote Link to post Share on other sites
1liter 20 Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 Beautiful Welding job on there... I looked a just cutting it to fit, but the base would be pretty thin afterwards.As Bob said, they're pretty malleable. Tony might have a die, I don't know. When I formed it, it didn't match exactly, so I then finished cut it to fit. Still pretty thick that way. You just gotta be careful forming it, not to crush the top loop. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MT Predator 2,294 Posted June 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 So, since this is so mallable and it was discussed not to crush the loop, are you guys beating it on the gas block to form it? It looks like it will be pretty thin if I mill/sand out to 1 inch on the inside. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Azrial 1,091 Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 Pretty malleable, it's easy to make it fit. Where's my damn hammer! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gtnichols 51 Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 I sanded out some material from the inside bottom with a flexible 1" belt sander, worked like a beauty,..the "legs are maleable and I used a vice and a small hammer to bend them slightly also., then I welded it on off to one side, and had to cut it off, and re-weld it center, seemed pretty forgiving, I used a laser bore sighter to insure proper alignment,... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MT Predator 2,294 Posted June 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2009 I sanded out some material from the inside bottom with a flexible 1" belt sander, worked like a beauty,..the "legs are maleable and I used a vice and a small hammer to bend them slightly also., then I welded it on off to one side, and had to cut it off, and re-weld it center, seemed pretty forgiving, I used a laser bore sighter to insure proper alignment,... Did you bend the legs out a bit before sanding out the center? I'm just concerned there isn't enough of the leg thickness to take much material away from the inside. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MT Predator 2,294 Posted June 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 Also I read in another thread about the front sight needing to be shortened on rifles. From the pics of the HK on a shotty, it doesn't appear to be shortened. Anyone shortening these for a S12? If so, are you just cutting some off the post or are you grinding more off the base? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gtnichols 51 Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 try bending the legs out a little first before sanding,.... and I don't think it's shortened for the s-12, only rifles. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MT Predator 2,294 Posted June 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 Roger that. Thanks for the insight guys! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ruffian72 548 Posted June 21, 2009 Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 Big hammer, cutting tourch, 2000 ton press. Smart ass reply. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
skiboatsp 111 Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 Also I read in another thread about the front sight needing to be shortened on rifles. From the pics of the HK on a shotty, it doesn't appear to be shortened. Anyone shortening these for a S12? If so, are you just cutting some off the post or are you grinding more off the base? Modify radius up to existing bore. Check with lazer bore sight and it works out great. fine tune if required with post. hope this helps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davehal9000 0 Posted November 5, 2009 Report Share Posted November 5, 2009 What did you end up doing with your Saiga? Any pics? By the way, is that Stroke's rifle on your profile pic? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kleypasp 1 Posted November 6, 2009 Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 MT, How do plan on welding the sights on?? I think most people use a TIG welder. I have been wondering if silver solder would work. (I don't have a TIG welder). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StarPD 6 Posted November 6, 2009 Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 (edited) MT, How do plan on welding the sights on?? I think most people use a TIG welder. I have been wondering if silver solder would work. (I don't have a TIG welder). My H&K sights are both, front and rear, silver soldered. They are solid as a rock, and silver soldering allows easy re-doing it if it needs to be removed or re-fastened for any reason. If done properly, once silver soldered, the sights aren't going anywhere. It's also a lot easier for someone not skilled in welding. BTW, if using H&K sights, be sure to remove the rear sight from the base before silver soldering, then reinstalling it after finishing. Edited November 6, 2009 by StarPD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kleypasp 1 Posted November 6, 2009 Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 MT, How do plan on welding the sights on?? I think most people use a TIG welder. I have been wondering if silver solder would work. (I don't have a TIG welder). My H&K sights are both, front and rear, silver soldered. They are solid as a rock, and silver soldering allows easy re-doing it if it needs to be removed or re-fastened for any reason. If done properly, once silver soldered, the sights aren't going anywhere. It's also a lot easier for someone not skilled in welding. BTW, if using H&K sights, be sure to remove the rear sight from the base before silver soldering, then reinstalling it after finishing. Star PD Thanks for the information I'll give it a try. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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