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Tromix .223 converted to 5.45x39, select-fire (pic)


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Built this the other day. 10.5" Saiga .223 converted to 5.45x39, select-fire. I just set the .223 barrel back about a 1/4" rechambered it, and opened up the bolt for the 5.45 case head. Runs great.

 

Tony Rumore

Tromix Corp

 

545SAIGA.jpg

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Hmm... interesting. Does that barrel properly stabilize the bullets? Someone(Century?) built some '74 kits(Tantals, I think) with .223 barrels, and there were many reports of key holing bullets, so the bullets weren't being stabilized by the over sized bore. I know sometimes people successfully load .308 bullets into a 7.62x39 case, but here would be a .004" difference between 5.56 and 5.45, whereas there is a .002" difference between .308 and x39(.310).

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I just set the .223 barrel back about a 1/4" rechambered it, and opened up the bolt for the 5.45 case head.

 

"I just..."

 

Sounds amazingly easy, when it comes from a master gun smith...

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I only ran a couple of mags in the Tromix bullet trap, so I don't know about accuracy or bullet stabilization issues. I had to install a bullet guide to get it to feed from those magazines.

 

On the first few rounds, there were a few primers that appeared to be struck hard, but did not go off. I ended up removing the firing pin spring to give it a bit more ka-banger and the problem went away.

 

I plan to shoot some video soon to show the effectiveness of that custom flash hider. With the hider removed the fire ball was ENORMOUS in the shop. After installation, the flash went to ZERO. I want to test it more at night, on video. It should be impressive.

 

Tony

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Tony, I got a question. Are you using the regular .223 barrel? If so, I have read a bunch of stuff about a bunch of the Century tantals having been fitted with .223 barrels instead of 5.45 barrels, apparently causes keyhole issues. I guess it doesn't matter too terribly much on a select fire/FA gun, but was just wondering if you were using the factory barrel. Looks great nonetheless.

 

Edit: just re-read the original post, reading is fundamental. So you are using a .223 barrel. Are there keyholing issues? How's the accuracy? I've never shot a 5.45, but really want to pick one up at some point. From what I've read, it's pretty comparable to a .223, as far as recoil and trajectory.

Edited by elvis christ
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Stupid question, can someone answer.

 

I thought keyholing would be good because the rounds go the same spot everytime? What makes keyholing bad (I'm sure it is bad just wondering why)

 

 

 

Keyholing means the bullet is loosing it's stability in flight. It's not good.

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If you guys do a little research, you will find that there are keyholing issues with 5.45 ammo, regardless of the type of gun, barrel, twist, etc, they are fired from.

 

I don't have the answer, but my guess is the bullet design in the surplus ammo imported into the US is seriously fucked up and it has nothing to do with the guns. The bullet diameter is the same between .223 and 5.45 that I have measured. My guess is, that if you pulled those 5.45 bullets and loaded them in .223 cases, they would tumble out of your AR-15 as well.

 

 

Tony

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I plan to shoot some video soon to show the effectiveness of that custom flash hider. With the hider removed the fire ball was ENORMOUS in the shop. After installation, the flash went to ZERO. I want to test it more at night, on video. It should be impressive.

 

Tony

Hey, Sir, if that flash suppressor is threaded 1/2x28RH, you might want to let the Kel-Tec Owner's Group (http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?board=50) know about it - apparently one of the biggest problems with the PLR-16 (9" barrel) is the muzzle flash. Nothing wrong with providing excellent products to multiple markets!

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