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Darth AkSarBen

Hole Plugs

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From another forum site I found out that Lowes has some hole plugs in 3/16" black configuration. Part number 139446 made by Hillman. $1.04 for package of 2. I know you can get them from other sorces, and vendors here, but if you need a couple to plug up a couple of holes, and wander by any Lowes, you might find them "convenient". LOWES Black Hole Plugs You can either search in Lowes with the above number of give them the model number of 881274, and should come out the same.

 

When I put them on my rifle, looks just like a rivet.

 

008236716658md.jpg

 

 

Just wanted to post this as.... For What It's Worth.

Edited by Darth AkSarBen
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depending on the brand, they very in quality, the hillman are pretty good, however I still think they look a little Cheesy, but if your looking for the cheapest way to make those holes go bye bye, then plug, are you choice, unless you weld.

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Looking at the ones on my rifle, they look like rivets, just like the other rivets, dark black, rounded and flush against the receiver. Looks like I would need to grind them off, that's how much they blend in looking like rivets.

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Most local auto parts stores have hardware departments that have these caps made of steel. I found some at Auto Zone. The metal seemed to fit snugger, only problem they are shiny chromed color, need to be scuffed up and painted.

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Another alternative to welding are 3/16" torque bolts. The open axis pin holes can be tapped and threaded. The bolts are easy to secure, and the look is very OEM tacticool. As a metalsmith, the idea that these holes need to be welded over, or that this treatment is any more professional than other solutions goes against many years of experience working in metals. I find the blatant condescension of some who choose to weld when it is not absolutely necessary, foolish, self serving, and distasteful.

 

Recently a forum member was distressed because he had welded holes on the bottom of his receiver, and his mag release spring had been annealed in the process. He had wanted to weld up holes "like the pros". The fact is, that when intense heat is applied to metal, the molecules rearange and the metal looses its temper. Unless it is retempered or work hardened, the metal becomes more maleable and will deform more easily.

 

Whether or not to weld over holes in a receiver is a personal decision. Personally, I do not want to rely upon a receiver that has been altered in this manner.

 

Having experience how tough the steel of the S12 receiver is, I was surprised to hear reports about how quickly the rear trunions of some S12's were deforming on setting two with high brass ammo. As a metalsmith I strongly suspected that the receivers on some or most of the guns with this problem had been annealed, or partially annealed via the application of high heat welds.

 

A friend in law enforcement recently asked to borrow a couple of my S12's to shoot at a police only range. The guns were apparently very popular, and a number of LEO's shot hundreds of police issue slug, and buckshot shells through the guns. When he returned the guns (still on setting two) I was extremely concerned, and upon field stripping them, found that although they were pretty dirty, there was no perceptible wear to the rear trunion. The bolt had rotated hard enough in the bolt carrier to raise two small burrs in the bolt channel. The burrs were easily taken down with a rubberized grinding wheel.

 

I am now more convinced than ever that unnecessary welding to S12 receivers should be avoided, and that doing so is anything but professional.

 

WS

Edited by WaffenSchmied
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Has anyone considered U-Drive rivets instead of the nylon hole plugs? it seems like they could be parked and painted and serve as a very permanent solution for those holes.

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Recently a forum member was distressed because he had welded holes on the bottom of his receiver, and his mag release spring had been annealed in the process. He had wanted to weld up holes "like the pros". The fact is, that when intense heat is applied to metal, the molecules rearange and the metal looses its temper. Unless it is retempered or work hardened, the metal becomes more maleable and will deform more easily.

Just saw this and WOW! That welding operation was FOOBARED.

 

If you use a tig, there isn't much heat build-up at all.

 

/me is sitting here trying to imagine what kind of welding job was happening to anneal the mag catch spring . . .

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Yeah, really. I'm no expert welder, yet the purple heat affected areas around my receiver holes were were barely bigger than the holes themselves. My trigger guard is even freakin' MIG'ed on, yet the mag catch spring is fine.

 

If you're not confident in your welding ability, practice on some scrap metal or let somebody else have a go at it.

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I used these on my conversion, they worked well. They're hard to get out - had to essentially destroy them with a needle nose in order to remove them, pretty solid. Anyone have any ideas as to how to plug the holes in the bottom of the receiver? It seems they're a tad too small for the 3/16 hole plugs - so i'm seeking out some other options. Any ideas?

Edited by steve28105

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Anyone have any ideas as to how to plug the holes in the bottom of the receiver?

 

Welding is a fabrication or sculptural process that joins materials, usually metals or thermoplastics, by causing coalescence. This is often done by melting the workpieces and adding a filler material to form a pool of molten material (the weld pool) that cools to become a strong joint, with pressure sometimes used in conjunction with heat, or by itself, to produce the weld.

 

A trip to your local muffler shop and get all the holes done right. Shouldn't cost much of anything, either.

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Anyone have any ideas as to how to plug the holes in the bottom of the receiver? It seems they're a tad too small for the 3/16 hole plugs - so i'm seeking out some other options. Any ideas?

 

Simple and cheap method would be to just enlarge the bottom hole a bit (drill, dremel) and then the hole plugs will fit.

In other words, don't look for smaller plugs, make the hole bigger.

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I didn't drill out the holes, because I didn't want to remove any more of the reciever than needed to be. So what I did, was slightly and slowly file each side of the plactic plugs, until they were a little smaller and it was still a tight fit in the hole (no puns). Then I took a flat pair of pliers, put a peice of cloth over the plug and slowly squezzed them in. No marks and a tight fit without more drilling. Just my 2 cents.

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I'll be honest. I could drill that hole out underneath (in front of the trigger) to 1/4" and I wouldn't be afraid to shoot it at all. Just a few thousandth increase is not going to make much of a difference. When you fire the rifle, the bolt is locked into place in the front trunion area and the rest of the receiver is there for the "structure" of the rails, PG, hammer, etc.. you get the idea. I've still got a hole underneath, but not becuase I am worried about drilling out a bit bigger, but because I'm lazy and it's not noticable. Besides, It's an extra place for the water to drain out of in these WET Michigan fall days!!! LOL

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I'll be honest. I could drill that hole out underneath (in front of the trigger) to 1/4" and I wouldn't be afraid to shoot it at all. Just a few thousandth increase is not going to make much of a difference. When you fire the rifle, the bolt is locked into place in the front trunion area and the rest of the receiver is there for the "structure" of the rails, PG, hammer, etc.. you get the idea. I've still got a hole underneath, but not becuase I am worried about drilling out a bit bigger, but because I'm lazy and it's not noticable. Besides, It's an extra place for the water to drain out of in these WET Michigan fall days!!! LOL

 

 

Yeah, completely agree with you. By widening the holes there is absolutely no damage done to the receiver. Just a personal thing for me.

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my 12 has JB weld dryng in 2 of the holes, used tape to cover the outside of the hole, then put some JB weld on the inside, tape outa hold it smooth and in place, I'll let you know how it comes out...

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I don't want to meet up with your dog on some dark night...One quick injection then...LUNCH!! LOL

 

 

Actually, that is me! :) I live in Northern VA, and the freak'n rude ass people and crappy drivers just get to me. That is how I look when I arrive at work!

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Why not just put solid rivets in the holes? Kinda a pain to fit an bucking bar in the reciever but it can be done. Same with attaching the trigger guard....just rivet it on. Then it really looks like it was made that way.

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From another forum site I found out that Lowes has some hole plugs in 3/16" black configuration. Part number 139446 made by Hillman. $1.04 for package of 2. I know you can get them from other sorces, and vendors here, but if you need a couple to plug up a couple of holes, and wander by any Lowes, you might find them "convenient". LOWES Black Hole Plugs You can either search in Lowes with the above number of give them the model number of 881274, and should come out the same.

 

When I put them on my rifle, looks just like a rivet.

 

008236716658md.jpg

 

 

Just wanted to post this as.... For What It's Worth.

Dinzag through some in with my bullet guide for free .

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Looking at the ones on my rifle, they look like rivets, just like the other rivets, dark black, rounded and flush against the receiver. Looks like I would need to grind them off, that's how much they blend in looking like rivets.

 

The rifle just looks odd with nothing in the holes, and the extra dummy rivets only look out of place to those who know what they are looking for. I'm glad that I did the same to my rifle.

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I don't want to meet up with your dog on some dark night...One quick injection then...LUNCH!! LOL

 

 

Actually, that is me! :) I live in Northern VA, and the freak'n rude ass people and crappy drivers just get to me. That is how I look when I arrive at work!

 

 

Sounds about right, I live in Centreville...

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I don't want to meet up with your dog on some dark night...One quick injection then...LUNCH!! LOL

 

 

Actually, that is me! :) I live in Northern VA, and the freak'n rude ass people and crappy drivers just get to me. That is how I look when I arrive at work!

 

 

Sounds about right, I live in Centreville...

 

Hahaha, as a Fairfax native, I can relate. We have the Worst.Drivers.Ever.

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Anyone have experience using standard rivets on the holes? Like the rivets used for the trigger guard but would need to be ground down a bit. A forum member had a Red Jacket 223 for sale that had the holes filled with steel rivets. Looked like the plastic plugs, but obviously metal.

Edited by grimm100

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Anyone have experience using standard rivets on the holes? Like the rivets used for the trigger guard but would need to be ground down a bit. A forum member had a Red Jacket 223 for sale that had the holes filled with steel rivets. Looked like the plastic plugs, but obviously metal.

Yes

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I went with the suggested JB Weld method on mine and am VERY happy how it turned out. Taped the inside, put into holes on the outside. When dried, sanded down and resprayed the receiver (wish I hadn't though.. The factory finish is tougher than Rustoleum). Holds up well and is SMOOTH (no signs of any hole mods). If I were to do it again, however... I'd do the same method, but instead just use a dremel to sand the JB down and respray ONLY that section.

Edited by Brian M1

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