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Saiga 308 with scope mount problem


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A friend came over to help me site in my 16" Saiga. All these groups are from 100 yards.

His best group was 1 1/8" with Portuguese 7.62 NATO surplus.

My best group was 1 1/2" with Portuguese 7.62 NATO surplus.

With Igman 150 gr soft point ($5.00/box), I shot a 2 1/2" group.

Remington Match Grade Boattail, 168gr, best group 2 1/2".

The scope mount needs some adjusting as we shot 15" low and 3" to the right with the scope adjustments maxed out. The scope mount is one of those that fits on the side rail and has the rings as part of the mount. There are two screws on the side that look like are meant for further adjustments. The trigger has got to be the worst trigger I've ever felt. All in all, this is a really good $230 gun to shoot about 1.5" out of the box with mil surp ammo, but how do I solve the problem with the scope mount? There are screws all over this mount. What's the best way to adjust it up to shoot 15" to 16" inches higher and 3" to the left? Shims for left and right?

I already removed the top front screw and pin. That seems an easy fix.

Allan Schisel

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It sounds like you have the EAA saiga mount.It actually has windage and elevation adjustments built it but they are pinned in place from the factory.The two screws on the side are the elevation adjustments,just inboard of the two screws are two pins,about 1/8" in diameter,these need to be driven out with a punch before elevation adjustment can commence.With the pins driven out,loosen the left screw(the flat headed one) and the right screw(the round headed one)the right screw rides in an oval slot so it can go up and down as needed to gain the elevation adjustment as needed,once there you will not be able to reset the pins so just torque it down best as you can and use penetrating loctite to keep it set.

The two screws at the juncture of the locking base and the upright are adjustable for windage, again they are pinned in place by the factory,you gotta drive the pins out first if you need to change the settings.The rear screw is the one which rides in the oval slot so loosen both and slide the rear left or right as needed to get to where you want to be.Once again the pins wont go back in now since you buggered up the factory settings but you can loc tite them in place and they will stay put.

Before you do any of this,set your scope adjustment knobs to the middle of theyre adjustment range and use the scope mount adjustment to bore sight the scope as closely as you can,then use the scopes adjustments to fine tune your zero.

I think this will alleviate your problems.

Let me know if you need more help,I`m here for you.

Bossman

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I gave it a try. I used shims in the mount at the top screws after taking the pins out. That took care of the windage problem. I tried the bottom screws, but there are three points of attachment and the Russians made other the end screws with rounded holes, so no adjustment screw hole. The front one wasn't oval, so shims were the only way to go. As for elivation, I got it right and shots from 25 and 50 yards were fine. By the time I got to 100 yards, I was getting vertical strings. Buggered up the screw tring to get it to hold. Now I know why the Russians pinned it. It's a great set up if the mount is in spec, but it's not. I called EAA and a very rude gunsmith said to send it back. A very nice parts guy told me how to try and fix it. Hopefully, they will fix this one or send me a decent one.

Allan Schisel

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  • 4 weeks later...

I sent the scope mount back on Dec. 30 and had heard nothing from EAA, so I just called. "We don't know why the gunsmith has not gotten back to you yet. The mount is being replaced and we'll send you a new one tomorrow (1/21/04). " Hopefully, this one will be in spec. I'll let you all know. If it works, I'll have to buy another one for my other Saiga in 308. Does anyone else sell a QD scope mount for the Saiga side rail that will put the scope lower? BTW, who is a good gunsmith that could do a trigger job on this gun? A pistol grip and muzzle brake would be nice, but I could live without them. An MOA shooter with a decent trigger would satisfy me.

Allan Schisel

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  • 4 weeks later...

The new mount also shot too low to get scope on target. Maybe the rail on my rifle is the problem? I'll put a shim in the ring and that should solve the problem. I'll make some shims by cutting up coke cans and get these rifles sighted in.

CDNN got in the low profile scope mounts with a picatinny rail. I put some low 1" rings on it and mounted a scope. It was no lower than the mount with integral rings once you add the height of the rings. I was using a Tasco 3.5 to 10 X 44 scope. I worked my way back to 100 yards and the gun was shooting VERY well. One 3 shot string of one ragged hole. That Portuguese NATO ammo is good stuff and so is this rifle once I work the sighting problems out. My next two shots missed the whole target! The mount had worked its way loose and off the rail. It was adjusted as tight as can be so you could still throw the lever and lock it in place (with force). This was repeated 2 more times! Dang thing kept coming off the rail. I compared this mount to the one with rings and there is a big difference. The low profile with picatinny rail has two little sections on either side of the adjustment nut for the bottom part of the rifle rail to rest on. The other mount has quite a bit more contact surface. I really think this is a poor design. BTW, the mount is stamped "Made in Belarusa." (sp?) Maybe I just don't know how to use it? Maybe it's A POS? This is the country making cheap knock off 3rd generation Kobra sights that are fakes. I returned the mount to CDNN today. I would have exchanged it for the mount with integral rings, but they were out of stock. I spoke to Randal of CDNN and he's a good guy. Wound up ordering the mount directly from EAA. Seems like both rifles will be tack drivers once I solve the mount problem. Next, I gotta do something about the triggers. They have to be about thew worst triggers I've ever felt.

Allan Schisel

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It's still hard for me to believe an AK design 308 with a 16" barrel and crappy trigger is so accurate. Try some Portuguese NATO surplus, it's great. Once I get the mount problem fixed, this will be a tack driver. I sold my Browning BAR II liteweight once I saw the potential of these Saigas. Who would have thought this rifle could be so accurate (and inexpensive)??

Are the psop set ups the ones I see at CDNN? What stopped me from getting it was the low magnification scopes. I need hi mag due to old eyes. Maybe there are ones with hi mag? Where did you get yours and what are it's specs (and price?)

The mount that came with my Kobra red dot sites is a fine piece of equipment. Doesn't look like it will ever come lose. I guess there are all grades of mounts. For $40, I'd of though the Belerusa made one would have been better.

Allan Schisel

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I was lucky and the mount I got was close enough that I was able to sight in at 100 meters. Originally sighted it in at 25 yards and when I shot it at 100 meters, the rifle was shooting about two feet high. I spun the verticle adjustment on the scope and the group was a tight one of about one inch, but still ten inches high. I was able to wlk the group to the bullseye. The ammo was Hertinberger fmj.

This is an awsome rifle even though it has a 16 inch barrel. The muzzle blast is impressive. My trigger is around six pounds, I think, and the rifle operates flawlessly. Previously I had to drill and tap the take down button and put a verticle Allen head screw in it to prevent the top cover from hitting me in the head. It looks kinda funny, but works well.

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It's still hard for me to believe an AK design 308 with a 16" barrel and crappy trigger is so accurate.

Well, the short barrel probably enhances the consistency of the groups because it is a lot stiffer than the 22 inch barrel. But the trigger is crappy, and such groups are surprizing.

 

They oughta give than Kalashnikov guy a medal for this design...oh wait, they already did!

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