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RoughRider666

Best Paint to Use?

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sorry for such an ignorant question, but ive been looking around and i cant find what kind of paint to use when doing your conversion / restoration. please fill me in, as i am getting ready to do my first conversion on my x39!

Edited by RoughRider666

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Duplicolor satin black high temp engine enamel. Goes on smooth. Dries quickly. Uses the existing paint on your gun as primer. If it gets marred, sand lightly and touch up as needed. At six bucks a can, you can't beat it.

 

Wish they made it in pink. My wife wants a pink S12. Don't ask me why.... she just does.

 

WS

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Can of black barbecue grill paint works fantastic, for colors I used flameproof engine paint its harder to get even though and takes several coats.

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Hope you don't mind me asking a question in your thread, but I didn't want to start another paint thread. I went and picked up the Dupli-Color Engine Enamel that seems to get the majority of the recommendations and while at the store noticed a can of spray on rubber undercoating. Just curious if anyone has been brave or foolish enough to try a rubberized finish for the outside of the receiver?

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Hope you don't mind me asking a question in your thread, but I didn't want to start another paint thread. I went and picked up the Dupli-Color Engine Enamel that seems to get the majority of the recommendations and while at the store noticed a can of spray on rubber undercoating. Just curious if anyone has been brave or foolish enough to try a rubberized finish for the outside of the receiver?

 

I haven't seen anyone mention using it.

 

Buuuuuuuuuuuuut there's always gotta be a "1st".............looking forward to the after pictures and your report. :D

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I do not understand the theory behind spending the money on a Saiga, plus the conversion, then trying to figuer out the cheapest possible finish to put on it! :lolol:

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I do not understand the theory behind spending the money on a Saiga, plus the conversion, then trying to figuer out the cheapest possible finish to put on it! :lolol:

 

 

Not so much cheap as in easy to acquire and least likely to screw up. We go through the conversion because it ain't so bad. But we get worried about boiling water for bluing and baking parts, etc. But I will admit I got the duplicolor because I'd rather say I used high temp engine paint rather than phuking BBQ paint. I know it's an AK but I got a little pride. :) Sorry you BBQ guys, gotta pull your chain.

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I do not understand the theory behind spending the money on a Saiga, plus the conversion, then trying to figuer out the cheapest possible finish to put on it! :lolol:

 

 

Not about being cheap....just thinking about more durable finishes. Actually what got me thinking about it was my old Jeep that we sprayed Rhino Liner on all of the interior metal surfaces. Durable as Hell and made clean-up a breeze. I was just curious if someone had gone a different route with regards to other types of finish coatings as I'm not brave enough to experiment with my own weapon.

Edited by GerryV

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Not so much cheap as in easy to acquire and least likely to screw up....

 

Welcome to the Internet, there are plenty of good finishes out there, on-line, and they will ship them right to your mailbox! I am going with Norrels MolyResin over park....

But whatever makes you happy! :D

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Not about being cheap....just thinking about more durable finishes. Actually what got me thinking about it was my old Jeep that we sprayed Rhino Liner on all of the interior metal surfaces. Durable as Hell and made clean-up a breeze. I was just curious if someone had gone a different route with regards to other types of finish coatings as I'm not brave enough to experiment with my own weapon.

 

Well if money is no object, you could go with a good hard chrome. You would have a hard time scratching a good hard chrome job with a screwdriver!

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I use Duracote over park. I started doing that about 6 months ago and can't realy

tell if the finish will last but has held up under heavy sessions until now. It takes

some time to set up the equipment and the home park comes out a little uneven in shade

due to the different metals on the gun so Duracote and all one shade.

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Ah... you finish snobs.... Always have something better, more superior. :haha: I actually have the equipment to hard chrome plate steel. Know why I don't? Cause for me its a waste of time and money. If hi temp paint is good enough for Izhmash, its good enough for me. And, Duplicolor is damned good hi temp gun paint!

 

C'mon you guys, the notion that the other guys AK is "less than" because they are using paint is nonsense. Use whatever makes you happy, but don't crap all over everyone else in the process.

 

:smoke:

WS

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My first conversions, I used Krylon Fusion (satin black), and it matched and held up O.K..

 

Then I got a Parkerized AK with a messed up receiver cover and bought some Aluma-Hyde II, to see if I could match the rifle finish on an extra cover. The Dark Gray Parkerizing was a near perfect match and has held up very well. I liked the look so much, I redid my Saiga's with Aluma-Hyde II Dark Gray Parkerizing, and like it much better than the factory finish.

 

The Aluma-Hyde II is a bit more work to apply, but requires no special tools (except patience, as it takes a loooooong time to cure). I don't think if I'd take the extra time to use it if I was just going for a factory look, but if you like the Parkerized look, it's a viable option.

 

[EDITED}

Edited by MCASSgt New River
Non-Business Member Link

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Ah... you finish snobs.... Always have something better, more superior. naaaa.gif I actually have the equipment to hard chrome plate steel. Know why I don't? Cause for me its a waste of time and money. If hi temp paint is good enough for Izhmash, its good enough for me. And, Duplicolor is damned good hi temp gun paint!

 

C'mon you guys, the notion that the other guys AK is "less than" because they are using paint is nonsense. Use whatever makes you happy, but don't crap all over everyone else in the process.

 

000.gif WS

Actually, the OP asked for the best paint to use, not the cheapest laziest way to put some kind of lame finish on your rifle. No one is crapping on anything, it is you that has come here and interjected some silly BS about how you have the means to do better, you are just too lazy/cheap to do so. If all a man can afford is old burnt motor oil, well that will work. But that was not the question.

 

Of course, an AK finished with whatever cheap paint you found on sale at Wallyworld is "less" well finished than one that someone's who has put more time and work in to! What kind of new age, "we are all winners', happy horseshit is that? Col. Colt made all men equal, not all men made guns equal to Colt.

 

As to "good enough" well I agree, it is obviously good enough for you. Frankly your AK sounds like it sux., smoke that. smile.gif

Edited by Azrial
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ok, so i decided to go with RUST-OLEUM textured Satin Black. this stuff looks virtually identical to the factory finish, and i think once its fully cured, im thinking its gonna hold just pretty well.

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Not so much cheap as in easy to acquire and least likely to screw up....

 

Welcome to the Internet, there are plenty of good finishes out there, on-line, and they will ship them right to your mailbox! I am going with Norrels MolyResin over park....

But whatever makes you happy! :D

 

IIRC, parking a gun is a lot of work. And then with the moly resin you have to bake it afterwards right?

 

Now another poster had suggestted Brownell's aluma-hyde II and that's looking good and easy. I'd spend the extra bucks on that. But going all out with your suggestion seems to be a lot of work no?

 

Sorry, but I'm continuing to ask serious and curious questions versus taking your flame bait and returning fire.

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Allumahyde II is a good finish.. The only problem is the cure time. If you are patient

and can coat it and let the parts sit for 2 to 3 weeks to fully cure you would be cool.

The black looks like park if sandblasted prior to finishing. After 3 to 4 days it seems

dry but you can still thumb print it.

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I just redid 3, 30 rd and 1, 40 rd steel magazines in Alumi-Hyde II Olive Drab. How I got through the 2-3 week wait was by putting them in the oven and baking them at 180 Degrees for 1.5 hours. Worked like a charm! Very good stuff. I even did my UTG quad rail in the same stuff. Looks factory and very tough. If I had a way to stuff the entire receiver and barrel in my oven, I would do it all, but I don't. I tried the BBQ paint, and CLP turned it into mush (bottom of the receiver after conversion). So I just blued it. Krylon Textured Black Satin paint is some pretty good stuff as well. I used it on a front lower hand guard retainer (intended on doing the modified bolt on method) and was really surprised that CLP didn't affect it, and it even took a little while to get it off with paint stripper. At some point, I am either going to duracoat the entire receiver and barrel in Magpul Dark Earth, or send it off to have it done. Hope this helps.

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elderly bodyman got me on the one i use , SEM brand , Metal etching primer, color black, matches the factory paint perfectly and since its an etching primer its got a good bite on the metal

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We use Norrel's, applied to sandblasted hot parts and then baked. Super durable, smooth and totally solvent proof.

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I'll stick with DuraCoat. If you spend the time and effort to customize, why skimp on the finish?

Look at some of the posts. Be it a Saiga conversion or a parts kit build, everyone wants to know what the finish is and how it holds up.

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Not so much cheap as in easy to acquire and least likely to screw up....

 

Welcome to the Internet, there are plenty of good finishes out there, on-line, and they will ship them right to your mailbox! I am going with Norrels MolyResin over park....

But whatever makes you happy! :D

 

IIRC, parking a gun is a lot of work. And then with the moly resin you have to bake it afterwards right?

 

Now another poster had suggestted Brownell's aluma-hyde II and that's looking good and easy. I'd spend the extra bucks on that. But going all out with your suggestion seems to be a lot of work no?

 

Sorry, but I'm continuing to ask serious and curious questions versus taking your flame bait and returning fire.

Yes, it is more work to park and then paint. However, I believe that it offers more protection. I was in a Maritime Unit for a while and I guess that stressed on me how important a good finish is.

 

There was no "flame bait." Your needs and desires may be different. You made mention of how easy the BBQ Paint was to get and I pointed out that all of these finishes are available on the Internet and they would be shipped right to you. However, the OP asked for the best finish and I gave him my honest opinion. W-S came in here and tried to claim that my opinion on finishs equated to condemning someone as less worthy because they didn't meet my standards of what was best, ridiculous.

 

However, this is a science and a set of careful tests, which I fully admit I have not conducted, would yield a scientifically definitive answer to this question! I suspect that my answer is correct based on observation, but who knows. I have honestly read of tests in the past that suggested that park over paint does offer the best protection.

 

The truth is that many here do not need the "best" finish and whatever looks good when the firearm coming out of the safe to visiting company is the answer! I want mine to have the best protection to sea air, even though I currently don't need it!

 

Good luck and post pics and reports of whatever you choose! :D

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I've used duracoat, engine enamel and BBQ grill paint.. I prefer them in that same order and believe they are all better than the factory finish as long as you prep the metal well.

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Since i made this post, i have discovered just how tough the Rust-Oleum Textured paint really it. that stuff is AWESOME! it dries to the touch in 15 minutes, but if you have the time and the patients, let it cure for 5-7 days its damn there indestructible! it barely makes marks on the receiver where the selector goes up and down, which we all know is real common on the AK's.

 

it goes on really easy and the end result looks absolutely amazing!

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Sorry you BBQ guys, gotta pull your chain.

Your just jealous that I can fry wieners in my receiver :rolleyes:

 

Did someone say BBQ?

post-13534-12559883627095_thumb.jpg

 

:D

 

Yakdung

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I used Brownells ALUMA-HYDE II AEROSOL Matt or Semi Gloss It is a real gun paint and it holds up great, Impervious to solvents and cleaners. Use whats best for you bbq etc.money.gif But after all the time energy &$$ I put into my Saigas I prefer to "seal the deal" with quality paint. I used the ALUMA-HYDE II AEROSOL MAT BLACK on my S-12 and will using the SEMI GLOSS on my x39.

 

The rifle must be clean and oil free prior to application Simple green bath heat to 212f evap h2o and lots of Break Cleaner x3. To paint heat parts (heat gun) and apply lite coat then reheat and next lite coat repeat.

I then hung it in my makeshift oven: Hot plate with insulated 45' ventilation tube mounted to it, works like a charm big_smile.gif

 

Anyway thats my input hope it helps somone.post-19136-12560180256893_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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Sorry to Hijack but that pipe/hotplate Idea sounds like the nutts. My half witt

roomate cries when I bake a gun in the oven. Gonna give it a try.

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