Gas Piston replacemet with rivet or Loctite?

[CPE1704TKS 24]

Just received a TAPCO piston to use in 922r complince conversion and noticed the replacement instructions no longer call for replacing the rivet and now state tkat Loctite is to be used.

 

Anyone have any perspective on not replacing the rivet?

[nalioth 405]

You'll need some form of mechanical fastening, for best results.

 

Loctite is just another form of glue (but hey, if you don't mind re-gluing it when it comes loose, go for it)

[ArcFault 4]

For insurance, you can also flatten the threads with a punch once the piston is screwed in all the way.

[saigafreake 27]

rivet it and forget it.

[Shellshock1918 1]

Has anyone ever not riveted their gas piston after replacement to see if it ever backs out?

[saigafreake 27]

the bolt carrier travel is so violent on the ak action it will come loose and out.

[Darth AkSarBen 20]

Define violent. The rod is a piston that travels back and forth. If I understand how it's put in there, with threads, you won't see it come all the way out without a major malfunction. Won't the piston, if it is backing out, create "length" in the entire rod? If that happens won't the piston bottom out in the gas chamber and prevent the bolt from actually locking into battery? If that happened, you remove the bolt carrier, re-tighten the rod/piston, and voila' , back in business.

 

 

Simple solution is to just put a rivet back in, or a roll pin, and sand it off smooth with a Dremel. Locktite should work. It's designed to be a thread "glue" of sorts that keeps the threads tight, even if heated and cooled.

Edited November 19, 2009 by AKsarben

[nalioth 405]

Define violent. The rod is a piston that travels back and forth. If I understand how it's put in there, with threads, you won't see it come all the way out without a major malfunction. Won't the piston, if it is backing out, create "length" in the entire rod? If that happens won't the piston bottom out in the gas chamber and prevent the bolt from actually locking into battery? If that happened, you remove the bolt carrier, re-tighten the rod/piston, and viola, back in business.

That is exactly what happens. For most Americans, it'd be a minor inconvenience on range day. Say "Hi" to Viola for me.

 

Simple solution is to just put a rivet back in, or a roll pin, and sand it off smooth with a Dremel. Locktite should work. It's designed to be a thread "glue" of sorts that keeps the threads tight, even if heated and cooled.

The rivet is the ticket (or a roll pin, if you've got extras). All else is a gamble.

Edited November 14, 2009 by nalioth

[Rhodes1968 1,638]

Due to the direct exposure to the hot gases Im sure the main issue would be the heat not mechanical vibration so even the hardest curing Locktite would turn to jelly like it is designed to do so it could be removed. The problem is not slow fire but rapid where the heat builds to several hundred degrees approaching temps in the chamber itself. You might be able to find the max temp for that piston and compare to locktite specs but Im positive it far exceeds it.

 

JB Weld would work as its designed to withstand that level of heat but that would be permanent and I doubt you want that but then thats your call.

 

Mechanical makes the most sense, locktite the least.

Edited November 17, 2009 by Rhodes1968

[Darth AkSarBen 20]

The rivet or roll pin is the best. However, there is mention of heat. I don't think there is that much heat on that part of the piston. True, the end near the gas port will get hot, but way down the line, I wonder just how much heat is at that point. For locktite and JB Weld I really don't think that heat is an issue.

[Rhodes1968 1,638]

Now you have me wondering since its steel how hot that joint gets, will find out next time I have a chance but I would rather someone not chance it on a moving part.