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My saiga fell apart!


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If it's the same as the riffles, than the rear rivet hold the trunnion in place so I would not drill all the way through that one. Then you can round it of or leave it and it will still hold fine. I a

Tomorrow

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This was time consuming to say the least...

 

I cut the two missing slots in the top of the quad with a hacksaw blade... JUST the blade, man i wish i could have found the hacksaw.... and a run of the mill flat bastard file....

Chaos 5.JPG

Chaos 6.JPG

Chaos 7.JPG

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!@$#% let the buyer beware...

 

I'm now the proud owner of a Magpul MS2 PTS sling...

 

The PTS is important, evidently what i didn't know is that magpul outscourced this design to another company for airsoft use and allows them to use their name...

 

It said "for airsoft use only" in no less than 3 spots on the instructions that came with it and It dosn't say made in the USA anywhere on it.

 

And i thought i had found a $55 sling for $47 for a total savings of $8? to get something made for airsoft use only? I feel like a ASS right now...

 

I mean really you know what your getting into if you know it normaly goes for 200+ and you find it for $50, but $8 cheaper? WTF?

 

well... we'll see how magpuls outscourced airsoft sling holds up... I'm going to beat it till it breaks, and if it dosn't i'll let you know.

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Shitty, bro.

 

Magpul PTS is indeed Magpul's licensed Airsoft sub-division. (Which makes a lot of sense from Magpul's business standpoint. They're pretty much beating out some counterfeiters by licensing a company to spit out Airsoft-only gear, and getting money from it. As opposed to not receiving anything from knock-off artists)

 

It's fucked up though, that dickhead companies are selling/advertising the gear as real Magpul stuff at (or near) real Magpul stuff prices.

 

 

 

If you're ever looking for AR stuff, let me know, bro. I can usually find good deals.

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DuraCoat came in today! Hee hee hee

I need to weld the charging handle on and... well once the last of the ordered parts are in we're go for paint... wait we should test fire this thing first too right?

 

Everyone else will have to wait with me to see what the finished product is.

 

I'll pull your money out of the bank tommarow.

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Your second in line, I got another PINK camo job to do first.

 

That is unless you want yours done up pink at the same time? 2 birds with 1 stone as they say.

Hey I'm not trying to budge in line.

 

Do the pink first, just gives me more time.

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Dude, um, you're my hero. Superman has absolutely nothing on you my friend (ok, except maybe a steel wanker).

WTF? :lolol: Thanks I guess, but superman wouldn't have put his shotgun conversion in the rifle section like i did...

 

How many of you caught that?

 

I don't think i'm happy with the saftey lever like it is, I need to trim some weight off it, and maybe give it a lower profile...

 

I'm just a guy in a garage, with a few good friends. Me having Fubar do the welds on the aluminum and the front sight is like when martha stewart has profesionals come over to help her bake a cake. furthermore stormi's AK with the tantal saftey was a good deal of the inspiration for this, and isn't it nice to have a friend coming over often that has done dozens of kit builds?

 

My point here is I've had a lot of help to make this possible, and by no means should i be given all the credit.

Edited by Nailbomb
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Well a few updates...

 

I wasn't happy with the weight of the saftey, and lightened it up some, I also bent it in to sit closer to the reciever. We had a working model but i stripped out the set screw... Next time I'm using coarser threads. The saftey is easily taken off safe using the thumb on the saftey, But the thumbhole stock dosn't allow you to twist your wrist over to get enough purchase to put it back on safe... I might dogleg the saftey lever a little, or I might just live with it. To be honest i don't care that much, going into rock and roll with hand on the trigger is more important than going to safe with finger at the trigger... If you want safe your finger shouldn't be there anyway.

 

I still havn't gotten my flashlight, or my T-1 in yet... I'm getting damn sick of waiting...

 

Greg never makes me wait like this! :cryss:

 

We're down to the last bit of work befor test fire, and then paint.

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This is a assembled gun... Even the BHO is installed. The saftey works. It goes to stormi's for test fire and paint this weekend.

 

Still havn't gotten my T-1 in :cryss: But i'm not waiting any more, worst case scenario it can get painted later.

 

If anyone cares to know, foward(toward the muzzle) is fire, back(toward buttstock) is safe.

 

EDIT TO ADD:sorry about the double of the one pic...

Befor test1.JPG

Befor Test2.JPG

Safe.JPG

Fire.JPG

Front end.JPG

CHfinal.JPG

Edited by Nailbomb
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too bad the thumb safety doesnt actuate the OE selector.

Its moving in the opposite direction, It wouldnt make any sense for it to. Of course i could have done it the other way around, but that would be one heavy lever to pull with your thumb. :D

 

Its just a dust cover and a charging handle block, turn it down when you pick it up. :killer:

 

I'm assuming you asked the same question -shooter- did? :xmas:

Edited by Nailbomb
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Its moving in the opposite direction, It wouldnt make any sense for it to. Of course i could have done it the other way around, but that would be one heavy lever to pull with your thumb. :D

Its just a dust cover and a charging handle block, turn it down when you pick it up. :killer:

I'm assuming you asked the same question -shooter- did? :xmas:

 

i dont understand what you mean by, "its moving in the opposite direction"?

 

my questions/comments were based off of the thumb safety, manipulating the selector lever.

 

i was thinking of a 2 piece design (for disassembly) with the thumb safety at the 3 o'clock position for fire and maybe the 5 o'clock position for safe. this would make it a little bit easier to pull the thumb lever down from the 3 o'clock fire position. as well as keep the thumb lever out of the grip area and more contained on the receiver, depending on how long the thumb lever was/is. down for safe and thumb lever in your grip area, up for fire and thumb lever out of your grip area.

 

i cant think of a reasonable way to make the 2 piece connection, without needing a tool or a pin/clip of some sort. unless you changed the angles of the safe block/trigger engagement in the reciever and some how used the polish type like yours.

Edited by Mullet Man
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Its moving in the opposite direction, It wouldnt make any sense for it to. Of course i could have done it the other way around, but that would be one heavy lever to pull with your thumb. :D

Its just a dust cover and a charging handle block, turn it down when you pick it up. :killer:

I'm assuming you asked the same question -shooter- did? :xmas:

 

i dont understand what you mean by, "its moving in the opposite direction"?

 

my questions/comments were based off of the thumb safety, manipulating the selector lever.

 

i was thinking of a 2 piece design (for disassembly) with the thumb safety at the 3 o'clock position for fire and maybe the 5 o'clock position for safe. this would make it a little bit easier to pull the thumb lever down from the 3 o'clock fire position. as well as keep the thumb lever out of the grip area and more contained on the receiver, depending on how long the thumb lever was/is. down for safe and thumb lever in your grip area, up for fire and thumb lever out of your grip area.

 

i cant think of a reasonable way to make the 2 piece connection, without needing a tool or a pin/clip of some sort. unless you changed the angles of the safe block/trigger engagement in the reciever and some how used the polish type like yours.

 

Use a 2 piece like the polish and weld a piece of 1/16 by 1/16 square stock off the side at long as the narrow point extending off it and going into the dust cover/lever. Weld another piece on the dust cover lever to integrate. it would push the lever down, but when the saftey comes on not turn the lever off so you could safely clear the weapon.

 

In order for this to work however you would have to make the throw of the lever to go off safe the opposite that i have on mine. The way mine turns if they were interacting as it comes OFF safe onto fire it would be raising the lever. as you look at mine it turns clockwise to go to fire and counter clockwise to go to safe. the operation of the saftey lever on the opposite side is the same, clockwise for fire, counter clockwise for safe. but being on the opposite side you would need a inverse reaction to make it possible. so you would need to design your polish saftey to turn counter clockwise for fire, and clockwise for safe.

 

do you understand what i'm saying now? Its not that it can't be done, I simply made the choice early on during this not to make it work like that. Theres some very tight tollerances inside the S-12 as it is and making this whole thing fit was a trick. Let me put it to you like this... I have to remove my trigger guard and buttstock to remove my saftey. Knowing that and that I've never seen this done on a S-12 coupled with the fact that the original polish design didn't work like that kept me from undertaking that one extra feature.

 

That all said, it would never work on mine the way i did it, But it could work on yours if you started with that intention in mind.

 

But it is going to be a huge PITA, and i don't recomend it for anyone.

Edited by Nailbomb
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