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HANDGUARD RETAINERS... .where to get em?


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LETS say I buy a USA made 4 peice WOOD SET for my SAIGA... based on a ( for lack of any other model) a WASR 10 set....

 

The WASR will have the STOCK RETAINERS that I would be swapping out for the NEW WOOD furniture...

 

K-VAR has them...

 

BUT.... WHICH ONE do I want that matches a WASR/hungarian/romanain style handguard??? I am kinda confused with the ones they have at the site...

 

OR....

do you have any other links that could help???

 

It would be MOST APPRECIATED!

 

 

:smoke:

Edited by IndyArms
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Indy,

 

Try Kvar.....

 

http://www.k-var.com/subcatmfgprod.asp?0=216&1=258&2=-1&6=1

 

http://www.k-var.com/subcatmfgprod.asp?0=216&1=238&2=-1&6=1

 

I have been working on this myself. You'll either have to split and weld or bolt the lower retainer or remove by pressing off and on the FSB and gas block.

 

As for the top retainer, so far as I know it is a part of the gas tube itself. I tried installing a costly upper handguard piece with weaver mount ribbing on a vented Bulgarian gas tube as pictured in the link and stretched the damn metal. Grrrrrr.....

 

Anyway, that is all I can offer. Maybe one of the heavyweights can enlighten us both before you piss your part away too.

 

Wolverine

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hugegator,

 

How the heck do you get a synthetic (or wood for that matter) top handguard piece on a a gas piston tube with the retainers welded on?

 

I ruined on $17 Bulgarian tube like this trying to roll it on. Any ideas or suggestions? What am I missing?

 

Wolverine

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How the heck do you get a synthetic (or wood for that matter) top handguard piece on a a gas piston tube with the retainers welded on?

 

Wolverine,

 

Here's a link to a tutorial on AK furniture removal/installation:

 

http://www.gunsnet.net/Linx310/furnitureremoval.htm

 

Worked for me when I was doing this on my various wood and synthetic AKs for refinishing and so on, but I did have to do a little sanding on a wood part after refinishing to get it to go back on without too much stress. Also, mine only wanted to assemble one way around - the other way around seemed to bind excessively and almost sure to crack it. Just differences in the tolerance of the various parts, I guess. A fit of new, previously unmated parts seems almost certain to need a little custom fitting in this area.

 

Best of luck - go careful - sometimes it seems like its right on the edge of cracking a wooden piece... I hate it when that happens.

 

How did you "stretch" the metal? Just curious, as I'm trying to picture what might have happened.

 

As you may already know, that site has a wealth of info on everything from bump firing to mechanical and upgrade techniques.

 

NCShooter

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NCShooter,

 

Thanks for the infor and link. I used that one some time ago when polishing the Century (crap) FCG in my WASR-10. Ultimately I replaced it with with a G2 FCG. Like night and day.

 

As for the synthetic piece I'm trying to wedge in the Bulgarian, I turned it with enough pressure (after soaping the metal rings) to actually stretch and tear the retainer slightly away from its weld to the body of the gas tube. So it's shape has been distorted. I can doctor it I suppose but in is much as I am into practical functionalism, I am kind of anal about it being perfecto.

 

It may be that these two parts will not mate. At least a wooden one has the give of the springs. The synthetic is rigid. Shaving the lips will only serve to allow slop once installed. I've got nothing to lose now but keep experimenting. What am I going to do anyway, ruin the gas tube or something? :lolol::lolol:

 

Wolverine

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What NCShooter said. I always put the tube's rear end in a drill-press vise and try to find the "sweet spot" direction to turn.

 

 

Thanks hugegator.

 

I am going to keep playing with it so see if I can make it work. The pisser is this was a new (kvar) Bulgy vented gas tube not some cheapo. Oh well ,you gotta breaks some eggs to make an omelette. :rolleyes:

 

Wolverine

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