volkov 318 Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Can't remember where, but somewhere I mentioned I was going to be tryng JB weld for the rivet holes.. Just wanted to say it turned out great for anyone interested in going this route. Done it on three guns now, all look great. What I did was just take some tape over the outside of the holes, keep your finger on it to keep it on, then just take a small amount of JB weld and with a toothpick lightly cover the hole from the inside of the gun, apply moderate pressure to push the JB weld into the hole fully, but keep your finger over the tape on the other side to make sure it stays in place. When you remove the tape the next day the hole should be filled and flush. Just use a little.. you only really want to cover the hole, not spread JB weld throughout the entire gun. I also recommend removing EVERYTHING first, you can get a better shot at it from the stock hole and obviously it's better not to have the FCG in in case you acidently put some on it. Was hesitant to give results I put a few hundred rounds through the saiga 12 with it on the firing range.. just in case, and everything checks out. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RoughRider666 47 Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Holy REDNECK Batman!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
volkov 318 Posted December 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Holy REDNECK Batman!!! That's right Yankee.... Anything a man can't fix with JB weld and duct tape, probly ain't worth fixin'. WS Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tram 11 Posted June 7, 2010 Report Share Posted June 7, 2010 I flew with a guy the other day at work who did this same thing on a 7.62.. He also used JB Weld to create a bullet guide on his 7.62.. Says it's holding up great.. JB Weld is awesome stuff.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oceanrover 1 Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 I totally agree I used J-B Weld on one of my S12's and after + 300 rounds is holding up great, did mine by putting the the tape inside the receiver and after 24 hrs took down excess with small orbital sander then painted with Brownells Aluma Hyde II. I am updating that S12 so it's getting ready for some fresh paint. I also think the Aluma Hyde II also assists in the bond. So save a head ache spend $6.00 bucks and have great results. Oh and for you non believers, you can also use J-B Weld on your receivers to cover up those nasty grind marks that so many get from over grinding the weld.... kind of like bondo and will be just fine after coating. JB.bmp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
volkov 318 Posted May 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 (edited) guess if the thread's gonna get ressurrected I'll continue- done this on several rifles now having done helped on conversions for friends- at least one rifle is at 1000+ rounds and holding up great. No problems yet. Edited May 20, 2011 by volkov Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 Not the worst idea I've ever heard, but it's close. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimdigriz 580 Posted May 20, 2011 Report Share Posted May 20, 2011 Can we have a pic or two? I can imagine doing it for the little holes in the bottom of the receiver, but not the ones on the side. Don't want to risk getting unnecessary debris in the innards. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jpnorris87 3 Posted May 21, 2011 Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 Why not just put a rivet in the hole??? If you dont like the look of the rivet, countersink it and then put it in there. Not that hard, takes 2min. And alot more professional that slapping JB weld on your rifle b/c you are afraid to actually work on it. Same with the bullet guide. Really how hard is it to drill a hole and tap it? If you are having problems with this, maybe you should let someone that knows what they are doing work on your rifle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Foxtail207 23 Posted May 21, 2011 Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 Lowes sells a bag of hole plugs for nearly nothing. I saw a post either on the here or the AKFiles telling about them. Thay look great and you just press them in. CSS also sells them for cheap also. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smartbomb 133 Posted May 24, 2011 Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 just fill it with a little puddle of weld. i just did 6 holes on a s20 and there really isnt that much heat distributed thru the receiver. i could touch within 3/4" after filling and not burn my finger. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
presto_z 125 Posted October 22, 2011 Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 I've used jb weld to fill in the rivet holes on multiple saigas without a problem. It's much better then using those plastic little plugs, they suck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted October 22, 2011 Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 Not the worst idea I've ever heard, but it's close. Mr. Ash-- FYI I always respect your opinion. I totally get the aversion to JB weld as a sign of sloppy half done work... That said,what's so bad about it this has got to be about the least critical thing someone can do to their gun. This is merely a cosmetic touch, and if it looks clean, what difference would it make? After all, your awesome weapon light is made from the cheapest crappiest light you can get at home depot, and it works and looks great. Whether you are going by function or looks your mod is a winner. I think you could apply the funciton or looks test to filling the holes with JBweld and find the same outcome. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ben4345 123 Posted October 22, 2011 Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 Would JB weld stick work? Those nylon plugs look ugly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cgp 12 Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Pictures would be worth a thousand words and would like to see some pics on the inside. I figured the outside hole would need to be countersunk a little to get some of that edge off the JB weld to catch and keep it in place, essentially making it a rivet that blends in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jbanzai 113 Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Plastic plugs or JB Weld...what's the difference? Does anyone really gawk at their rifle so much that it matters one way or the other? As for a JB Weld bullet guide...why not just drill and tap a proper one? Murphy's law...that things gonna fail when you need it most. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vulcan16 971 Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Use a foil backed metal tape(speed tape) on the inside of the receiver to control the JB weld flow. It will allow the JB weld to set almost completely flush on inside. Tape around the diameter of the outside of the receiver holes. let it set, sand and paint. Holes should fill up nicely if used properly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kresk 10,063 Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 JB is a hoosier fix. Find a couple rivets and do it right. Even the plastic inserts look decent. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Strikeking 0 Posted November 5, 2011 Report Share Posted November 5, 2011 Sand the JB Weld flush and smooth before refinishing the receiver and you'll never know the holes were there. Better than putting plastic plugs or useless rivets in the holes. I've got an aversion to welding on a heat treated receiver also. Too much heat and you can ruin it easily. Nathan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wpflgun 3 Posted December 13, 2011 Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 JB Weld, assuming we are talking about the long-cure original product (Industrial Cold Weld Compound), is well suited for certain repairs and fixes. It works best when it fits flush, and has a mechanical lock to grasp. For the application discussed in this thread it should work fine. I would recommend using a small, thin patch of fiberglass fabric or plastic drywall tape just large enough to cover the hole, soaked with JB Weld before cure, on the inside. It will form a re-enforced backing and a mechanical lock combined with the hole. Outside filled and finished and you should have a strong hole plug, unlikely to shake loose, invisible when painted. JB Weld will hold up to extreme temperatures as well. I used JB Weld to hold my bullet guide into place for test/proveout, before drilling a hole in the trunnion. After an 8 hour cure, it held in place for over a hundred rounds without a hitch. I then drilled & tapped and screwed it in permanently. I would not depend on it to hold for that kind of purpose for an extended period. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grimm100 13 Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 Can anyone tell me what size rivet (length and diameter) and what type (swell neck or standard) they used on the rear of their reciever to fill formal trigger pin holes? Also, what method or tool did you use to deform? Any ideas for a bucking bar if one were to rivet the bullet guide in as well? Sorry of this is a re-hash but searching keeps on making the flood filter angry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mancat 2,368 Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Almost a year later dude, We are still wondering if you have pics? it would be great to see an example of this done well! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 Not the worst idea I've ever heard, but it's close. Mr. Ash-- FYI I always respect your opinion. I totally get the aversion to JB weld as a sign of sloppy half done work... That said,what's so bad about it this has got to be about the least critical thing someone can do to their gun. This is merely a cosmetic touch, and if it looks clean, what difference would it make? After all, your awesome weapon light is made from the cheapest crappiest light you can get at home depot, and it works and looks great. Whether you are going by function or looks your mod is a winner. I think you could apply the funciton or looks test to filling the holes with JBweld and find the same outcome. I honestly don't mind seeing this on other people's guns, but personally I would just leave the holes if I couldn't weld them. It's not some kind of elitism. I don't care how much a guys spends. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Fair enough. I have been considering using rivets as hole fillers on mine, but I can't seem to find less than a hundred of them anywhere. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 ...and it's not as hard to weld them as you think. Hit the hole, quench with a rag. Tony TIGs them but I wouldn't be afraid to hit them with a MIG if that was all I had. Or maybe countersink the hole, and use a screw that was ground down enough to be flush. lots of mechanically sound ways to skin the cat. Don't a lot of guys use the internal block to mount their stocks? Even more options. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vicdoc 38 Posted February 20, 2012 Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 (edited) I don't have access to a welder, otherwise I'd fill with weld for the best long term solution. I have used the plastic plugs temporarily, not sure if anything permanent might affect my ability to fit the Fostech Bumpski I have on order. Once I have it in I will decide whether to fill in the holes. (I have to say, the plastic hole plugs look pretty good!) I do have a press and some riveting tools, so for a permanent solution I would lightly countersink the outside, then rivet with the rivet head on the inside and grind the rivet flush, similar to like I did with the 2 holes resulting from the trigger guard move. Edited February 20, 2012 by vicdoc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joseph 141 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Okay the whole worst Not the worst idea I've ever heard, but it's close. How in the world is this close to the worst idea you've ever heard? the gun would be just find if you left the holes there without anything in them. and i think filling with JB weld is better than nothing, i personally used plastic hole plugs but thats more for conveniance than anything else Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dad2142Dad 6,559 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 I used to be concerned about what the gun looks like, you can spend a little or a lot on looks. Now I really don't care what it looks like, as long as it performs. Also it's your gun, do what you want. Just don't be surprised if someone does not share your opinion. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Fair enough. I have been considering using rivets as hole fillers on mine, but I can't seem to find less than a hundred of them anywhere. You might already know this.. AK Builder .com has a receiver rivet kit for $9. Should be enough choice in a kit, to fill the four side holes. I like the rivet idea myself. I might have to give that a go sometime with the "modded bolt cutter rivet press". Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 ...and it's not as hard to weld them as you think. Hit the hole, quench with a rag. Bob, Is it best to MIG one, quench, let cool and then rinse repeat for the other holes. Or OK to jump right into the one next to it while the first is still hot? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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