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How far should the shrould be cut back?


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I went to home depot and got the mini copper pipe cutter and that did the job perfectly it only cost like $7.

 

As I understand it, a pipe cutter will not cut the shroud flush with the FSB. That leaves you with roughly half an inch of shroud still in place.

correct, but depending on what brake/compensator you plan on installing might not require the entire shrouded area, so a pipe cutter would be adequate depending on what you plan on installing.

 

Also remember that the Saigas (besides .308) have a longer barrel profile than normal AK's, and by that I mean the shrouded area/barrel past the FSB.

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Get your brake or muzzle device you want first.

 

Measure how far the threads go inside the muzzle device.

 

Then cut your shroud to accomodate this. AFAIK, the threading die will thread right up to the edge of the shroud.

 

Then you can index with plumbing (?) tape.

 

DO NOT cut the shroud all the way to the FSB!

 

In the thread cutting tutorial, the poster said not to do that because your threaded portion will be way too long.

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Get your brake or muzzle device you want first.

 

Measure how far the threads go inside the muzzle device.

 

Then cut your shroud to accomodate this. AFAIK, the threading die will thread right up to the edge of the shroud.

 

Then you can index with plumbing (?) tape.

 

DO NOT cut the shroud all the way to the FSB!

 

In the thread cutting tutorial, the poster said not to do that because your threaded portion will be way too long.

 

At least unless you buy the brake from Dinzag that has the threads that go one inch deep.

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Damn it. I missed this discussion, or over read it. I was lucky enough to have threads already done, but I was cutting it almost flush, but stopped when I didn't see much progress. I ended up movin forward a 1/4 inch and it easily came off. I used a dremel and now have an unsightly gouge.

 

I'll post pics later.

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Where you get the threader?? Was it hard to line up and do??

 

In reference to the thread about the factory threaded models, mine was produced in 2/09. This is why I gave it a shot. I was pleased to see I did, in fact, have the threads when I took off the shroud. Thanks for the suggestion, I will defiently be looking into the quick-fill.

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Could I get some education here? How do you determine the manufacturing date?

 

There are two booklets when I got the rifle. One was just a generic manual. The second was a certificate-like book with official stamps and dated. That is where I got the suspected manufactured date. I am not sure if all Saiga's come this way.

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I cut my shroud all the way off (flush with the front sight block). I then ordered dinzag's threading kit and one of his 14x1 LH muzzle nuts. I threaded the muzzle nut on first and then put my brake on. When I got the brake in the right spot I tightened the muzzle nut into the brake to clock it. Works great.

 

http://www.dinzagarms.com/brakes_hiders/brakes_hiders.html

 

For some reason dinzag's muzzle nuts are unavailable right now.

 

jrmock

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Try JB Weld for the gash. Amazing stuff. Let it get almost hard and rough trim it with a file. After hard, use fine file and emery paper, then paint with Rustoleum Bar B-Q paint. It is a close match. I refinished the entire Saiga with it and it is tough and looks great.

Edited by imarangemaster
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Try JB Weld for the gash. Amazing stuff. Let it get almost hard and rough trim it with a file. After hard, use fine file and emery paper, then paint with Rustoleum Bar B-Q paint. It is a close match. I refinished the entire Saiga with it and it is tough and looks great.

 

Thanks, I will report back when repaired.

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  • 9 months later...

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