Bullet guide concern...

[Flapjack 0]

Hey guys,

 

After doing the research, I sucessfully completed my first conversion without a hitch...have 300 rds through it and it ran perfectly..

 

My concern is with the bullet guide. I used pipe and a # 6 stainless machine screw as sugested on the conversion "how to" website...A while back I read a post by a very knowlegable saiga man (I think it was Smiley guy) who raised concern about having the screw head directly in front of the chamber, and the risk of it shearing after repeated impacts and becoming a barrel obstruction after several rounds Which seems to me to be a valid concern.

 

after examination of the wear on the guide after 300 rds, it is barely perceptible, and in theory does not take much impact force guiding the bullets. However, not being a metaluragist or physics guru I am not well versed in the forces/shear strength exerted on the guide and screw. What do you all think?? Am I worried for nothing??

 

I do know the guide can be silver soldered....as far as being stronger I have no Idea, but If it broke loose I would feel better knowing my gun would simply jam, as opposed to missing fingers.

 

I know there are some very reputable outfits who are doing these conversions...how are they installing the bullet guide?? are they disassembling and riveting to the trinion as a "normal" AK?? One would think for liabilities sake they have thought this issue through in spades...

 

Thanks guys...Let me know what you think...

[charger SE 0]

I had the same concerns. However, my opinion is that if the guide is well fitted to minimize movement, the screw should not be subjected to any significant sheer stress. I made sure my guide was long enough to have a "lip" to fit under the barrel, and that the rivet on the side of the reciever was completely nested in two directions in the notch I cut on the side of the guide to clear it when installed.

 

Also, keep the clearance hole for the screw in your guide to a minimum. I went with 9/64 (.1406), as the #6 screw has a diameter of .138. If possible, get your guide to a machine shop and have them put in a proper countersink for the screw head. (only takes a minute, they might do it for free). A regular drill bit has too shallow of an angle to match the angle of the screw head.

 

It's *my opinion* that if you do all this with some red loctite, your screw should live a long, happy life with it's bullet guide friend in Recieverland.

 

Forgot to mention, someone on here said to stay away from a brittle or hardened screw, such as stainless, to allow the screw to deform rather than break. I think this makes sense, you might want to consider it.

Edited March 28, 2005 by charger SE

[pistonring8 1]

I dont think you have anything to worry about. Plain steel bolts are used in billions of valve and cylinder heads on car engines. They are subjected to severe stress, vibration, heat and pressure. I have never seen one let go that was properly threaded.

 

You are useing stainless steel which is 10 times better than plain steel for these particular circumstances. Even though SS is a bit more rigid and potentially brittle, I honestly dont think you will put enough stress on it to break it.

 

I agree with the Locktite® idea. That stuff can keep ANY bolt from backing out. Just keep an eye on it if it worries you. I would trust a SS bolt more than a weld and much more than silver soldier.

 

Just my opinion, Im no expert.

[Doerdie 0]

I agree, trust the screw. I have seen way to many cracked welds and braze joints in my 25 years in the HVAC trade. %0% of the work I do is fixing bad brazed pipes. Only broken bolts or screws I ever had were ones I broke myself. And if anyone mentions using JB Weld just shoot 'em and put 'em outta their misery!

[k_dawg 0]

if in doubt, get some Grade8 bolts :-)

[steve 1]

I work In the printing press repair business and the only sheared screws or bolts that I have had to replace were because another loose or broken part sheared them off. I have replaced a lot of welded parts in light duty aplications because they failled. I bought a countersink bit and used a flathead screw on my bullet guide, and used blue locktight. If the bulletgude butts up against the face of the barrel I would think that the most shear force would be from recoil rather than the bullet sliding along the leading edge of the guide, as long as the screw is seated good and tight and held in place(locktight).

Edited March 30, 2005 by steve

[avatar 4]

I work In the printing press repair business and the only sheared screws or bolts that I have had to replace were because another loose or broken part sheared them off. I have replaced a lot of welded parts in light duty aplications because they failled. I bought a countersink bit and used a flathead screw on my bullet guide, and used blue locktight. If the bulletgude butts up against the face of the barrel I would think that the most shear force would be from recoil rather than the bullet sliding along the leading edge of the guide, as long as the screw is seated good and tight and held in place(locktight).

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Everyone is correct. The screw your using won't feel a thing. When you tighten it the frictional forces between guide and trunion do the work, and remember the guide is not being used as a stop it is just a guide. LOCTITE is your friend.

[vjor 2]

AVATAR is right, the guide just guides the bullets up, and really, the guide should not

be subjected to any pressure just the one of the bullet been push by the bolt.

 

And yes silver solder will work if you do it right, I prefer the method of the bolt

however, the old silver solder works all the time and have worked for gunsmith for years in different works on guns.

 

It is true different grades of solder to different jobs.

Edited March 30, 2005 by vjor