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Paulyski

Project Guitar Hard-Case is officially a go!

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My Project Guitar Hard-Case :ph34r: for My S-12, MD-20 drum, Russian 8s / AGP 10s & ammo is officially a go!!!

I found a fender case for $50.00!!!!!! :super:

Very heavy duty.

 

I plan on cutting spaces out of hard foam for all components.

I was planning on lining it with Velvet, But I think I'll recycle the lining it has, now that I found this one!

 

Thanks Waffenshmied for suggesting Guitar cases.

Small digital piano cases are rare, so hard to find.

 

Guitar cases are abundant & cheap!

 

PERFECT!!!!!!!!

:D:up::super:

 

Now I just need to get a folding keyboard stand to keep in the trunk & I have a gun table when I go into the woods to shoot!

 

I'll keep the thread posted with pics!

 

Here's what I found for $50.00!

gtrcase1.jpg

gtrcase2.jpg

Edited by Paulyski
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I just use adjustable saw horses and a set of bifold closet doors for a portable bench

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This is my old S-12, that is still stolen, and it's mini "Student" guitar case. I use a Fender Soft Care for my AR and a Tennis Racket bag for my folding stock AK. Makes checking in at Motels easier. :D

 

MySaiga-12-d.jpg

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I just use adjustable saw horses and a set of bifold closet doors for a portable bench

That's a great & cheap idea.

 

But I keep targets, big cardboard backboards, a portable canopy, hammer, nails, paint pen (for marking targets) & a stapler for mounting targets to the cardboard in the trunk of my TownCar at all times (& I could still fit 2 dead bodies :devil: ) So I can set up range anywhere. All I want to grab from the house is the S-12 case & guns

 

I don't have a truck, so your stuff would be too big.

Currently, I have been using the hood of the TownCar to set my Enfield's case on & put my guns on it. I haven't scratched it yet, but if I continue I'm sure I will.

 

I plan on making that case able to fold out completely flat for more table space.

 

One of these would be easier to stow & look cooler IMO.

 

image345.jpg

 

Good tip though. :up:

I'll set something up like that for my folks. They could really use it.

Edited by Paulyski

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I've wanted to put a SBR tommy gun in a violin case. I might consider putting my S-12 in a tennis ratchet case once I SBS it. Can't wait to see how your project comes out.

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First I got two 2" foam sheets & one 1/2" foam sheet from Home Depot.

I used 3M high strength spray mount to lamanate the 1/2" piece to the 2" piece, to make the bottom a touch thicker to match this case.

 

S6300525.jpg

 

I cut the pieces to size with a hot-knife.

(these tools are also great for cutting webbing & nylon rope)

 

Hotknife.jpg

 

Then lay the parts you wish to encase on the bottom & trace around them.

You trace larger than they are, as the material will fill some of the voids & you don't want to have to pry the parts out when you use it.

 

trace.jpg

 

Most important is a good outline cut.

If you don't have a hot-knife, a soldering iorn would do the job.

 

Precut.jpg

 

Then I use a scoop blade that I made to create the cavities.

If no hot knife, cut out with standard blades, then heat the back of a large spoon with a tourch & use that to smooth the cavities.

 

scoop.jpg

 

Test fit everything.

 

Stage.jpg

 

To apply the material, I use High strength 3M spray mount for the bulk, then a hot-glue gun for the edges that may see parts being inserted & extracted from them.

Hot-glue the pockets in too.

Spray mount won't be durable over time for these areas.

 

To transfer the immage perfectly, I inserted one item at a time & closed the lid & applied pressure. This gave accurate enough markings to place the components exactly where the needed to be.

 

Side2.jpg

 

 

 

The result....

Sleek as hell in about 5 hours for less than $80.00

 

Done2.jpg

Done1.jpg

 

VICTORY!!!!!

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It's a hot-wire foam-cutter--commonly used by arts/crafts-types, sculptors and model-railroaders.

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I'm not sure Family friendly language can express my feelings! That is Great! Way to go on the foam cutting! I ended up using closed cell squishy foam and that can be difficult to get weapons back into sometimes. Next time I'll try your method. Thanks for sharing.

Looks Fantastic!

I'm sure you hear this a lot from the ladies but.....Nice Wood!

Edited by RobRez

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That looks incredible man. One question though, what is that gadget you used to shape the foam liner? I've never seen one of those before.

Dimondback is right.

It's commonly reffered to as a hot-knife.

I made the blades out of welding rod.

Mine is industrial grade.

S6300529.jpg

 

Looks good.

What was your process for mirroring?

Close the case down on it & press like hell, place objects on indents & trace, then hot-knife out

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I have made stencils for cases in the past. I make a paper cut-out in the shape of the case, lay the weapons and mags. on it, trace 'em, cut out the shapes to make a reversable stencil that I lay on the foam and draw my cut lines. Works perfect every time! I think the styrofoam is a key idea, I wish i did that instead of soft foam. Well.... I guess I still can. Thanks for the photos!

Remember.... if the Saiga 12 band shows up, it's time to leave the show!!!

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Remember.... if the Saiga 12 band shows up, it's time to leave the show!!!

That like the Chicago rule about "if you see a buncha guys with violin cases... RUN!"?

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I used to make and sell replicas of movie props, mostly Star Wars

 

Here is a tutorial that I created to explain how i made display inserts.

 

 

 

DISPLAY INSERT

 

 

Display.jpg

 

 

 

 

I use red felt covered inserts made from Styrofoam to display my props at home and when I go on the road.

 

If constructed properly they will protect your prop and look great to.

 

 

 

*******************DISCLAIMER*******************

 

Use this tutorial at your own risk. I can not be held responsible for any damage or injury sustained for the improper use of tools or procedures that are outlined below.

 

******************DISCLAIMER*******************

 

TOOLS:

 

2tools.gif

 

Knife or Table Saw

Straight Edge

Utility Knife

Extra Blades

Black Markers

 

MATERIALS:

 

2" Thick Sheet Styrofoam (Available at Wal-mart)

Red Felt

Krylon Spray Contact Cement

Large Brown Paper Bag

 

 

 

1. MAKE A PLAN

 

The most important step to the whole process is to plan how you are going to use your inserts. Select a few common sizes that will be universal for your collection and take into account future props that you intend to buy.

 

Once you have assessed your needs and have a good plan you can start to make inserts.

 

 

 

2. CUTTING THE STYROFOAM TO SIZE

 

The easiest way to cut the Styrofoam is on a table saw.

 

You can cut several "Blanks" at one time with one setup and they will be consistent.

 

If you do not have a Table Saw at your disposal you can cut the Styrofoam with a long knife if you follow these instructions:

 

Use a very sharp knife and cut the Styrofoam on a solid surface such as a scrap of plywood.

Make several shallow cuts, keep the knife vertical at all times.

Use a straight edge to make the first cut.

Work slowly to avoid knife wobble which will result in ugly edges.

 

 

 

3. MARKING THE CUTOUT

 

3layout.gif

 

Gently place the prop on the Styrofoam insert.

Outline the prop with a black marker.

Keep the outline close but don't worry too much about neatness at this point.

 

 

 

 

4. REMOVING THE CUTOUT

 

4cutout.gif

 

Use a utility knife to cut the outline to a consistent depth.

Keep the blade edge vertical when cutting into a corner.

Once you have cut the outline make a series of straight cuts in the field about 1/2" apart.

Use the regular knife to carve the scrap out of the field. Do not go to deep.

Wobble the scrap until it breaks free and discard it.

Scrape the bottom of the field with a utility knife blade until it is consistently flat.

Use your thumb to smooth the floor of the cutout.

Turn the cutout upside down to remove any crumbs that will prevent the felt from sticking.

 

 

 

5. CHECKING THE CUTOUT

 

5check.gif

 

Place a thin piece of cloth over the cut out.

Set the prop in place and check for proper fit.

Remove and additional material and check as needed until the prop sets in the cutout without a great deal of force.

 

 

 

6. CUTTING THE FELT

 

6felt.gif

 

Use a Sharp utility knife blade to cut the felt.

Make sure you leave enough extra felt to cover the sides. I add 4" - 6" to each side.

 

 

 

7. APPLYING GLUE TO THE INSERT AND THE FELT

 

Place the felt on drop cloth face down.

Place the Styrofoam insert on the felt face up.

Spray a light coat of contact adhesive on the top surface of the Styrofoam.

Set the Styrofoam aside.

Spray a light coat of contact adhesive on the felt.

Let the contact adhesive dry according to the Manufactures directions.

 

 

 

8. GLUING THE FELT TO THE INSERT

 

Once the glue is dry lightly set the insert onto the felt face down.

Flip the felt and insert over.

Place the prop in the cut out.

Pull the felt loose all around the prop.

With considerable force push the prop until it is seated at the bottom of the cutout.

Starting in one corner stretch and flatten the felt against the top of the insert.

Work your way around the entire prop removing all wrinkles.

Once you have the top looking good pull the felt over any of the sides.

Use a new utility knife blade to trim the felt 1" or more from the top of the insert.

You will need to cut 45 degree angles at the corners to prevent the felt from overlapping.

Use compressed air and tape to remove all of the Styrofoam crumbs that are sticking to your insert

 

YOUR INSERT SHOULD BE DONE

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You did a nice job!

 

For those without the use of a hotwire cutter, an electric carving knife can be used with decent results.

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