Paulyski 2,227 Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 (edited) My Project Guitar Hard-Case for My S-12, MD-20 drum, Russian 8s / AGP 10s & ammo is officially a go!!! I found a fender case for $50.00!!!!!! Very heavy duty. I plan on cutting spaces out of hard foam for all components. I was planning on lining it with Velvet, But I think I'll recycle the lining it has, now that I found this one! Thanks Waffenshmied for suggesting Guitar cases. Small digital piano cases are rare, so hard to find. Guitar cases are abundant & cheap! PERFECT!!!!!!!! Now I just need to get a folding keyboard stand to keep in the trunk & I have a gun table when I go into the woods to shoot! I'll keep the thread posted with pics! Here's what I found for $50.00! Edited February 4, 2010 by Paulyski 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bvamp 604 Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 I just use adjustable saw horses and a set of bifold closet doors for a portable bench 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
swells08 128 Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 That'll do...keep us posted with pics too..wanna see how it turns out. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Azrial 1,091 Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 This is my old S-12, that is still stolen, and it's mini "Student" guitar case. I use a Fender Soft Care for my AR and a Tennis Racket bag for my folding stock AK. Makes checking in at Motels easier. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frankyoz 15 Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 I found a coffin guitar case should be picking up today. I also found baseball gear bags work as well cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted February 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 (edited) I just use adjustable saw horses and a set of bifold closet doors for a portable bench That's a great & cheap idea. But I keep targets, big cardboard backboards, a portable canopy, hammer, nails, paint pen (for marking targets) & a stapler for mounting targets to the cardboard in the trunk of my TownCar at all times (& I could still fit 2 dead bodies ) So I can set up range anywhere. All I want to grab from the house is the S-12 case & guns I don't have a truck, so your stuff would be too big. Currently, I have been using the hood of the TownCar to set my Enfield's case on & put my guns on it. I haven't scratched it yet, but if I continue I'm sure I will. I plan on making that case able to fold out completely flat for more table space. One of these would be easier to stow & look cooler IMO. Good tip though. I'll set something up like that for my folks. They could really use it. Edited February 5, 2010 by Paulyski Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mgconnor13 206 Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 I've wanted to put a SBR tommy gun in a violin case. I might consider putting my S-12 in a tennis ratchet case once I SBS it. Can't wait to see how your project comes out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobRez 1,895 Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Great choice!!! Have fun! 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted February 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 First I got two 2" foam sheets & one 1/2" foam sheet from Home Depot. I used 3M high strength spray mount to lamanate the 1/2" piece to the 2" piece, to make the bottom a touch thicker to match this case. I cut the pieces to size with a hot-knife. (these tools are also great for cutting webbing & nylon rope) Then lay the parts you wish to encase on the bottom & trace around them. You trace larger than they are, as the material will fill some of the voids & you don't want to have to pry the parts out when you use it. Most important is a good outline cut. If you don't have a hot-knife, a soldering iorn would do the job. Then I use a scoop blade that I made to create the cavities. If no hot knife, cut out with standard blades, then heat the back of a large spoon with a tourch & use that to smooth the cavities. Test fit everything. To apply the material, I use High strength 3M spray mount for the bulk, then a hot-glue gun for the edges that may see parts being inserted & extracted from them. Hot-glue the pockets in too. Spray mount won't be durable over time for these areas. To transfer the immage perfectly, I inserted one item at a time & closed the lid & applied pressure. This gave accurate enough markings to place the components exactly where the needed to be. The result.... Sleek as hell in about 5 hours for less than $80.00 VICTORY!!!!! 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 SLICK! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
diamondback 56 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Nice! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheHunterOfSkulls 230 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 That looks incredible man. One question though, what is that gadget you used to shape the foam liner? I've never seen one of those before. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
diamondback 56 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 It's a hot-wire foam-cutter--commonly used by arts/crafts-types, sculptors and model-railroaders. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Snoofer 138 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chevyman097 2,579 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Nice work man! that is the shit! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Raoul_Duke 113 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 That came out great! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Mark 2,452 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Looks great Pauly! Excellent Job! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheHunterOfSkulls 230 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Thanks Diamondback, need to go find one of those now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobRez 1,895 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 (edited) I'm not sure Family friendly language can express my feelings! That is Great! Way to go on the foam cutting! I ended up using closed cell squishy foam and that can be difficult to get weapons back into sometimes. Next time I'll try your method. Thanks for sharing. Looks Fantastic! I'm sure you hear this a lot from the ladies but.....Nice Wood! Edited February 7, 2010 by RobRez Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Looks good. What was your process for mirroring? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nonemoreblacker 0 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 That is super-sweet!!! Nicely Done Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Donkismash 81 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 ill take 2 to go Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted February 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 That looks incredible man. One question though, what is that gadget you used to shape the foam liner? I've never seen one of those before. Dimondback is right. It's commonly reffered to as a hot-knife. I made the blades out of welding rod. Mine is industrial grade. Looks good. What was your process for mirroring? Close the case down on it & press like hell, place objects on indents & trace, then hot-knife out Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobRez 1,895 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 I have made stencils for cases in the past. I make a paper cut-out in the shape of the case, lay the weapons and mags. on it, trace 'em, cut out the shapes to make a reversable stencil that I lay on the foam and draw my cut lines. Works perfect every time! I think the styrofoam is a key idea, I wish i did that instead of soft foam. Well.... I guess I still can. Thanks for the photos! Remember.... if the Saiga 12 band shows up, it's time to leave the show!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
diamondback 56 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Remember.... if the Saiga 12 band shows up, it's time to leave the show!!! That like the Chicago rule about "if you see a buncha guys with violin cases... RUN!"? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Boba Debt 350 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 I used to make and sell replicas of movie props, mostly Star Wars Here is a tutorial that I created to explain how i made display inserts. DISPLAY INSERT I use red felt covered inserts made from Styrofoam to display my props at home and when I go on the road. If constructed properly they will protect your prop and look great to. *******************DISCLAIMER******************* Use this tutorial at your own risk. I can not be held responsible for any damage or injury sustained for the improper use of tools or procedures that are outlined below. ******************DISCLAIMER******************* TOOLS: Knife or Table Saw Straight Edge Utility Knife Extra Blades Black Markers MATERIALS: 2" Thick Sheet Styrofoam (Available at Wal-mart) Red Felt Krylon Spray Contact Cement Large Brown Paper Bag 1. MAKE A PLAN The most important step to the whole process is to plan how you are going to use your inserts. Select a few common sizes that will be universal for your collection and take into account future props that you intend to buy. Once you have assessed your needs and have a good plan you can start to make inserts. 2. CUTTING THE STYROFOAM TO SIZE The easiest way to cut the Styrofoam is on a table saw. You can cut several "Blanks" at one time with one setup and they will be consistent. If you do not have a Table Saw at your disposal you can cut the Styrofoam with a long knife if you follow these instructions: Use a very sharp knife and cut the Styrofoam on a solid surface such as a scrap of plywood. Make several shallow cuts, keep the knife vertical at all times. Use a straight edge to make the first cut. Work slowly to avoid knife wobble which will result in ugly edges. 3. MARKING THE CUTOUT Gently place the prop on the Styrofoam insert. Outline the prop with a black marker. Keep the outline close but don't worry too much about neatness at this point. 4. REMOVING THE CUTOUT Use a utility knife to cut the outline to a consistent depth. Keep the blade edge vertical when cutting into a corner. Once you have cut the outline make a series of straight cuts in the field about 1/2" apart. Use the regular knife to carve the scrap out of the field. Do not go to deep. Wobble the scrap until it breaks free and discard it. Scrape the bottom of the field with a utility knife blade until it is consistently flat. Use your thumb to smooth the floor of the cutout. Turn the cutout upside down to remove any crumbs that will prevent the felt from sticking. 5. CHECKING THE CUTOUT Place a thin piece of cloth over the cut out. Set the prop in place and check for proper fit. Remove and additional material and check as needed until the prop sets in the cutout without a great deal of force. 6. CUTTING THE FELT Use a Sharp utility knife blade to cut the felt. Make sure you leave enough extra felt to cover the sides. I add 4" - 6" to each side. 7. APPLYING GLUE TO THE INSERT AND THE FELT Place the felt on drop cloth face down. Place the Styrofoam insert on the felt face up. Spray a light coat of contact adhesive on the top surface of the Styrofoam. Set the Styrofoam aside. Spray a light coat of contact adhesive on the felt. Let the contact adhesive dry according to the Manufactures directions. 8. GLUING THE FELT TO THE INSERT Once the glue is dry lightly set the insert onto the felt face down. Flip the felt and insert over. Place the prop in the cut out. Pull the felt loose all around the prop. With considerable force push the prop until it is seated at the bottom of the cutout. Starting in one corner stretch and flatten the felt against the top of the insert. Work your way around the entire prop removing all wrinkles. Once you have the top looking good pull the felt over any of the sides. Use a new utility knife blade to trim the felt 1" or more from the top of the insert. You will need to cut 45 degree angles at the corners to prevent the felt from overlapping. Use compressed air and tape to remove all of the Styrofoam crumbs that are sticking to your insert YOUR INSERT SHOULD BE DONE Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Azrial 1,091 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 You did a nice job! For those without the use of a hotwire cutter, an electric carving knife can be used with decent results. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Nice job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
red_cedar 28 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Looks good!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akastormi 617 Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 That is very cool. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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