I think mine is threaded...

[Crsswift70 1]

Anyone know how the BHO works? mine doesn't ever catch my bolt. Does the magazine need to be in the rifle? Mine didn't work before the conversion and it still doesn't work. I thought maybe pulling the bolt back and pushing up on the lever would do it, but that doesn't work for me.

 

Pull the bolt all the way back and push the BHO tab up and hold it. Then slowly release the bolt tension while holding the BHO tab in the up position and it should eventually hold it.

 

Yeah, i figured that out. My issue is that the bolt is riding on the hammer and causing it to hang. It never reaches the point that the BHO can catch it unless i force the bolt forward. I've worked the action a good bit to break it in, but it is still far from smooth. Some polishing may be in order. I can't seem to find the dremmel, so the hack saw may be my only option.

[ae13291 3]

btw guys i found that rustoleum low gloss 500 degree engine enamal paint is an EXACT match i painted the edge of the sporter plate and showed it to a couple people and they could not tell where it was painted until they notced where i had grinded the metal. im going to do maybe 3-4 coats of paint along with heat treating it with a heat gun and keeping consistant temps with a temp gun

[Crsswift70 1]

btw guys i found that rustoleum low gloss 500 degree engine enamal paint is an EXACT match i painted the edge of the sporter plate and showed it to a couple people and they could not tell where it was painted until they notced where i had grinded the metal. im going to do maybe 3-4 coats of paint along with heat treating it with a heat gun and keeping consistant temps with a temp gun

 

Cool, thanks for that info.

 

Well, i found another pipe cutter in the truck box and attempted another cut. It made it about 1/16th of an inch and broke the blade The small hack saw i bought wouldn't even get a bite on the metal. So, i once again turned to my handy file set. I have a small three sided file that made a nice angled cut. Since i had an even starter cut all around the barrel, i just used that groove and filed evenly all around. When i got close to what i though was the thickness of the shroud, i got some channel locks and twisted the end.. no go, little more filing.. again and POP! Perfectly even cut all around. I filed some of the little jagged edges and brushed off the threads. The JTAC brake went right on no problem. After painting the exposed shroud, i used red JB Weld and torqued the brake to the proper position. Hopefully this will keep it secured. If not, the neighbor has a welding machine which i can use to put a little tack weld on it.

Edited March 7, 2010 by Crsswift70

[ae13291 3]

good job man! good to see it is threaded,

[Crsswift70 1]

Sounds like i was very lucky. Shame is, if it hadn't of been, the cost of the project would have gone up at least $40. Wish they just sent them all over here threaded

[jim4jet 0]

Those are factory 14x1 LH threads, about 5/8" of threads from the muzzle to within 3/8" of the FSB. I cut all of the sight sleeve off, then used just enough to fill the space from the back of the brake to the FSB.

 

I've been reading this topic with interest, but I'm still trying to understand:

- How does the factory install the threaded spacer in the first place?

(and why can't it just be heated a bit to expand its size and then unscrew it off the barrel)

- How do you "cut all the sight sleeve off" but then re-use part of it (won't it now have a slit in it from cutting?).

Sorry, my elderly brain just can't picture it...

[ae13291 3]

^^^^ the sleeve is just a sleeve over the threads it is not threaded on there it is part of the actual front sight block.

[Crsswift70 1]

Those are factory 14x1 LH threads, about 5/8" of threads from the muzzle to within 3/8" of the FSB. I cut all of the sight sleeve off, then used just enough to fill the space from the back of the brake to the FSB.

 

I've been reading this topic with interest, but I'm still trying to understand:

- How does the factory install the threaded spacer in the first place?

(and why can't it just be heated a bit to expand its size and then unscrew it off the barrel)

- How do you "cut all the sight sleeve off" but then re-use part of it (won't it now have a slit in it from cutting?).

Sorry, my elderly brain just can't picture it...

 

Yeah, if you look at the second pic in post #33, you'll see what looks like a cut piece of pipe on the table. That was the part of the shroud or sleeve that i cut off to expose my threads.

[sailor 6]

The confusion comes from miss understanding "cutting off". The sleeve is part of the FSB, not directly attached to the barrel, and not threaded on - it only covers the threads (or bare barrel, if not threaded). Cutting off of the sleeve is circular (aroung the barrel, not in line with it). The FSB is pressed onto the barrel (tight fit), and the sleeve is also tight - I needed pliers to get mine off, and the "spacer piece" that I put back on, needed to be gently driven on. Hope that helps.

[jim4jet 0]

The confusion comes from miss understanding "cutting off". The sleeve is part of the FSB, not directly attached to the barrel, and not threaded on - it only covers the threads (or bare barrel, if not threaded). Cutting off of the sleeve is circular (aroung the barrel, not in line with it). The FSB is pressed onto the barrel (tight fit), and the sleeve is also tight - I needed pliers to get mine off, and the "spacer piece" that I put back on, needed to be gently driven on. Hope that helps.

Boy I'm sure glad to find this site.. thanks for further explanation.. now I see it..

I see threads at the barrel-end (YES!) so might add muzzle brake someday soon.

For anyone interested, I just bought the rifle and tried it out at range today.. Used Golden Bear HP ammo, didn't miss a beat w/ 40 rounds fired. I'm stoked. The only mods I've done so far is to install a recoil buffer and the birchwood hunting style woodstock (not doing conversion) from "SaigaStock". It's gonna be a sleeper, here in CA I like that it won't look at all like an AK. Sent off to Carolina Shooters for their bigger add-on bolt handle, extended mag release, a better hammer spring, and another SureFire 10-round mag (factory Russian mag won't hold bolt open when empty.. strange).

Next project is to add a peep-sight at rear of cover, and remove stock rear sight (My shooting eye sees double, so the stock rear sight is useless.. lucky I was even getting 3" groups at 50 yards today.. just take a guess and shoot!).

Anyway... I do appreciate all the input and info here... thanks to all.

PS: Any ideas for best way to lighten trigger force? Mine is pretty hard to fire ..

[Crsswift70 1]

Gratz on the rifle! If you are still using the stock trigger group, i can see why it would have an awful pull. There is a thread in here somewhere about polishing the areas needed to lighten or make the pull smoother. Got to be careful though, too much and it gets to be a hair trigger

 

New pics! Finished the hand guard modification. I used a template i found in the .308 section (thread was called ventilating synthetic hand guard i think) It didn't have the right hand guard, but i just needed the pattern. I'm going to create a new thread and link it HERE as i didn't see a detailed post in the forum.

Edited March 8, 2010 by Crsswift70

[Crsswift70 1]

Took my new PSL and SAIGA to the range this Sunday and had a blast. The PSL isn't as polished as the SAIGA, but i could hit a steel plate at 550m pretty consistently using iron sites. Terrible trigger pull!!! The SAIGA on the the other hand was a pleasure to shoot. Very accurate and had no feed or firing issues. Little recoil and almost 0 rise with the JTAC brake. The only thing i need is a cheek pad of some sort. after firing 60 rounds or so i could feel my cheek getting a little sore. At 25 yards free hand, rapid fire, i could put them all in a 4-5 inch area. I was consistently hitting an 18" plate at 250m free hand standing as well. No complaints! My new favorite rifle.

[icefire 10]

The confusion comes from miss understanding "cutting off". The sleeve is part of the FSB, not directly attached to the barrel, and not threaded on - it only covers the threads (or bare barrel, if not threaded). Cutting off of the sleeve is circular (aroung the barrel, not in line with it). The FSB is pressed onto the barrel (tight fit), and the sleeve is also tight - I needed pliers to get mine off, and the "spacer piece" that I put back on, needed to be gently driven on. Hope that helps.

Boy I'm sure glad to find this site.. thanks for further explanation.. now I see it..

I see threads at the barrel-end (YES!) so might add muzzle brake someday soon.

For anyone interested, I just bought the rifle and tried it out at range today.. Used Golden Bear HP ammo, didn't miss a beat w/ 40 rounds fired. I'm stoked. The only mods I've done so far is to install a recoil buffer and the birchwood hunting style woodstock (not doing conversion) from "SaigaStock". It's gonna be a sleeper, here in CA I like that it won't look at all like an AK. Sent off to Carolina Shooters for their bigger add-on bolt handle, extended mag release, a better hammer spring, and another SureFire 10-round mag (factory Russian mag won't hold bolt open when empty.. strange).

Next project is to add a peep-sight at rear of cover, and remove stock rear sight (My shooting eye sees double, so the stock rear sight is useless.. lucky I was even getting 3" groups at 50 yards today.. just take a guess and shoot!).

Anyway... I do appreciate all the input and info here... thanks to all.

PS: Any ideas for best way to lighten trigger force? Mine is pretty hard to fire ..

 

 

Hey, You might want to look up recoil buffers on this forum. A lot of folks here think they cause more damage to a Saiga then they help. the reasoning is, that if a Saiga is hitting the rear trunnion hard, its a worn out spring causing it. A new or near new Saiga will not be hitting back there hard. The recoil buffer can reduce the cycling and interfere with proper bolt function. Check it out, you might want to rethink having it in there. Up to you...

[jim4jet 0]

Thanx for heads up on recoil buffer cons.. I just automatically got one. Will watch for problems.

But have been to range twice now with no FTE/FTF or any other misfires (Golden Bear HP).

One thing that can be done is to shave down the buffer's thickness where the bolt crashes into it.

So you'd still have some buffer cushion but not as much change in bolt-travel.