Twitchy Tex 0 Posted March 4, 2010 Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 Been lurking for a week or so, finally got to the range with my new Saiga 12. Loved the gun, first 75 shots or so were great, even though I grabbed 1 oz shot, quick turn of the gas selector fixed the failure to extracts, no problem. Towards the end of the outting, first shot would go off, next, no real trigger pull, didn't seem to reset, also couldn't place safety into "Safe" position. Jiggling charging handle, even 1/2 inch, would fix problem. Fired a few single rounds, took of dust cover each time. Seems the interrupter (if I'm using the correct terminology) was grabbing the hammer, and not letting go when the trigger was released. Is this common? the more I seem to mess with it, the better seems to get, now that I'm home in a warm house and can't try it anymore. This also happened with buckshot and slugs, with the gas valve adjusted accordingly. At the range I could duplicate by holding the hammer, pulling the trigger and pressing hammer under interrupter, it would kinda latch into place and not let go. Any advice (other than ditching the factory FCG and getting a proper one? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted March 4, 2010 Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 (edited) Been lurking for a week or so, finally got to the range with my new Saiga 12. Loved the gun, first 75 shots or so were great, even though I grabbed 1 oz shot, quick turn of the gas selector fixed the failure to extracts, no problem. Towards the end of the outting, first shot would go off, next, no real trigger pull, didn't seem to reset, also couldn't place safety into "Safe" position. Jiggling charging handle, even 1/2 inch, would fix problem. Fired a few single rounds, took of dust cover each time. Seems the interrupter (if I'm using the correct terminology) was grabbing the hammer, and not letting go when the trigger was released. Is this common? the more I seem to mess with it, the better seems to get, now that I'm home in a warm house and can't try it anymore. This also happened with buckshot and slugs, with the gas valve adjusted accordingly. At the range I could duplicate by holding the hammer, pulling the trigger and pressing hammer under interrupter, it would kinda latch into place and not let go. Any advice (other than ditching the factory FCG and getting a proper one? Read this topic. Edited March 4, 2010 by Paulyski Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Twitchy Tex 0 Posted March 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 That may be the problem, but I had read over that, and it stated that pushing forward on the trigger would reset the trigger, for me, that did nothing. But I also have a factory FCG, so pushing the trigger forward doesn't really apply pressure to anything because of the levers involved Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Twitchy Tex 0 Posted March 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 Looked some more, at the high point in the arch of the mainspring it actually contacts the BHO, so not sure how much farther I can get it bent towards the reciever, and the interrupter (please correct me if this is the wrong term) can hold the hammer back with no pressure on the trigger. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted March 4, 2010 Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 (edited) Oh. Usually this is an issue with converted weapons. I have never herd of it with factory FCGs. Next time it happens, check through the side where you can see in with the safety off & see if the hammer is against the F.P. That would tell you if it's stuck in the disconnecter or completely failed to reset. You would then investigate from there. As for the mainspring bend, I bent the thing out at the end of the coil, then grabbed the middle of the spring leg with needle nose pliers & twisted counterclockwise just a hair. this countered its self & keeps the spring properly placed with minimal contact. But once again, mine & everyone with that particular issue that I have seen were converted. I never messed with mine in depth while unconverted, so I can't give sound advice, as I never studied the factory configuration closely. Edit to add: If you're unconverted, Cadiz Gun Works is our man on the inside & yours should be under warranty. I believe they pay shipping, so hit Tom up if you hit a dead end. Edited March 4, 2010 by Paulyski Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Twitchy Tex 0 Posted March 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 Ok, did some more checking, it really bugs me so I was up late last night looking. The hammer is resetting, but it hangs on the disconnecter. Also the disconnecter/hammer area seems a lil "gritty" it almost like there is a little ridge or rough spot causing to hang up. Would I be safe to polish this area some? I don't want to do anything where it could end up not catching on the disconnecter at all. What is the finish on these parts? After 100 rounds I'm definatly seeing alot of shinny metal there, as I would expect, but is there enough thickness to the paint that it could snag as the two surfaces wear down, till it polishes itself? It seems to be getting better, at first I could duplicate it everytime by hand, now I can't. And it's feeling smoother, but still a little bit gritty. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted March 6, 2010 Report Share Posted March 6, 2010 You could polish, or try some more break in time with some high brass. Don't remove metal or get it too hot.a light polish isn't going to remove nearly as much metal as 100 rounds. Also you could polish the front of the hammer where it meets the disconnecter, 2 smooth surfaces may just do it. I clean & pre-buff with Dremel Abrasives, then polish with Dremel wool pads & red compound. The abrasives should knock off burrs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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