When & What to Paint?

[one2za 7]

I am in the middle of a conversion and was wondering the following:

 

• If I paint, do I do it before putting the parts back in it?
  
• Would you paint the barrel along with the receiver for color match, or mask it off if it really doesn't need painting?
  
• If God is all powerful, can he make a rock so big that even he himself can't lift it? ;-)
  

 

What have some of you guys done?

 

BTW, I'm thinking of trying the Duplicolor 500 degree stuff.

[BUFF_dragon 3]

I duracoated mine, bead blasted the barrel and all, left the internals in, masked off the general area and all openings....

it worked good

 

I actually hung the gun by the barrel with some hay twine and tied it to the top of a door frame, the knot masked off the opening for the barrel, the other end got some shop rags stuffed in it....

also, bead blasting the bolt carrier really smoothed the action out....

[RobRez 1,895]

God certainly can do that. The beauty of being the boss is "Delegating". God can simply make this big rock, and get a few hundred minions to do the lifting instead. Of course we wouldn't really know if God couldn't actually lift it or was just being lazy.

[hobbyshooter 59]

For my first conversion I just sanded the bottom of the receiver, masked off EVERYTHING but the originally uncoated area and sprayed that with brake caliper paint.

 

I did the same thing with my .223 only I used some other left over paint that was pretty glossy. Since the only area visible is the small section of receiver behind the grip nobody will ever notice it unless I point it out.

 

For my Folder S12 I removed the scope mount block, sanded the receiver, welded the holes, and painted the receiver. It didn't turn out very good so I will eventually re-coat it once I move and have a larger work space.

 

If you are leaving the scope mount block on the side of the receiver I'd say just paint the uncoated bottom area of the receiver unless you want to go through the extra effort to change the color, or create a certain appearance. At which point it's up to you if you want the barrel painted or not...

[skiboatsp 111]

Most paint manufactures don't recommend bead blasting because it results in a peening effect that paint will not stick to as well as sand blasting. Use aluminum oxide and follow the paint recommendations.

 

I bead blast orthopedic instruments after repairing them and it gives a satin polished look that the factory uses.

 

I have found also the abrasive whatever type used gets everywhere, in screw threads, moving parts, etc.

 

I don't think you would ever get it all out, even with a sonic cleaner.

 

JM2cts

Edited March 10, 2010 by saigatechusa

[Lucas_061287 0]

I am in the middle of a conversion and was wondering the following:

 

• If I paint, do I do it before putting the parts back in it?
  
• Would you paint the barrel along with the receiver for color match, or mask it off if it really doesn't need painting?
  
• If God is all powerful, can he make a rock so big that even he himself can't lift it? ;-)
  

 

What have some of you guys done?

 

BTW, I'm thinking of trying the Duplicolor 500 degree stuff.

Some might call it shoddy or half-assed, but I don't see a problem with what you're suggesting. However, I'd DEFINATELY disassemble it as much as possible to ensure smooth, even coats and no pools. Nothing worse than picking up something you thought was dry only to have a nice glob of wet paint poop out of a crevice.

 

As far as the barrel masking- thats really up to your preferences. If you want to have a uniform finish, I'd say go for it IF you use the hi-temp stuff, but even then you run the risk of the barrel's heat either discoloring or damaging the paint, which negates the whole process.

 

As far as the third question- no comment! Its in my interest to not discuss religion or politics in mixed company

 

Good luck with whatever you do man. Any questions, shoot me a PM. I've got a good bit of experience with paint.

 

-Lucas

[one2za 7]

Forgive me Lucas, but what exactly am I suggesting that some might call shoddy or half-assed? Using Dupli-color? Painting while the innards are still out? What am I missing? (Besides a few marbles.)

 

"What this country needs are more unemployed politicians."

- Edward Langley, Artist (1928 - 1995)

[Lucas_061287 0]

Forgive me Lucas, but what exactly am I suggesting that some might call shoddy or half-assed? Using Dupli-color? Painting while the innards are still out? What am I missing? (Besides a few marbles.)

 

"What this country needs are more unemployed politicians."

- Edward Langley, Artist (1928 - 1995)

Wha? What are you talking about? I wasn't insulting anyone, I was replying to your original post. Just saying that some people find painting a gun is a taboo when it really isn't as bad as they make it, you know?

 

Anyways, I was providing some advice on a topic I'm familiar with (painting)- take it or leave it. I'll be posting a thread with pics of how to paint the gun after a conversion, so if you want to wait about 2 weeks and see the "How To" with pics, it may help you understand what I was talking about. Granted, I won't be using Duracoat, but the same concept still applies.

Edited March 11, 2010 by Lucas_061287

[spectre30 11]

I have a little side gig doing DuraCoat jobs so here's my 2 cents:

 

I DuraCoated before I replaced my internals.

 

The prep is more important than the painting in my opinion so make sure everything is degreased. Everyone has a different opinion, but I use either DuraCoat TruStrip or a quality brake parts cleaner. Or even soak it in a mild dish detergent.

 

Mask off the inside of the receiver and the rails the bolt carrier rides on.

 

If you can sand blast it, do it. Aluminum oxide works fine. If not, sand the crap out of it with 100- 150 grit. You really want to give that paint something to bite to.

 

Blow out what sand you can and then get after the nooks and crannies with an old toothbrush and some metal picks.

 

Do not degrease again, you will never get it all out once you have opened up the metal.

 

I plugged the barrel and gas tube and masked off the inside of the receiver and chamber.

 

As far as paint goes some guys here said they have had good luck with Krylon and such but it is just not going to be durable as some of the other firearm specific finishes, like DuraCoat. Sorry, I'm partial.

 

I have had equal success with air cure and oven baking. I know a lot of you will disagree.

 

If you do bake, just follow whatever the paint mfg. recommends. DuraCoat calls for 20 min. at 200 degrees.

 

Feel free to pm me. I am sure I didn't cover everything. It's late.

 

Here's a pic of my rig.

[one2za 7]

Forgive me Lucas, but what exactly am I suggesting that some might call shoddy or half-assed? Using Dupli-color? Painting while the innards are still out? What am I missing? (Besides a few marbles.)

 

"What this country needs are more unemployed politicians."

- Edward Langley, Artist (1928 - 1995)

Wha? What are you talking about? I wasn't insulting anyone, I was replying to your original post. Just saying that some people find painting a gun is a taboo when it really isn't as bad as they make it, you know?

 

Anyways, I was providing some advice on a topic I'm familiar with (painting)- take it or leave it. I'll be posting a thread with pics of how to paint the gun after a conversion, so if you want to wait about 2 weeks and see the "How To" with pics, it may help you understand what I was talking about. Granted, I won't be using Duracoat, but the same concept still applies.

Emotions can be deceiving with text. I wasn't insulted, just confused as to what "suggestions" I had made that could be considered as stated. I appreciate the advice. I think I've decided to mask off the barrel and gas block and just paint the receiver before I install the new FCG and buttstock. Seems more uniform then trying to just paint the bottom of the receiver where the trigger guard was removed. I confess I don't have the patience to wait for your tutorial, so tomorrow the paint flies!

[Lucas_061287 0]

^No worries man. Good luck and get some before/after pics

[BobAsh 582]

FYI, we MolyResin and bake all the components before assembly.

 

The method you're considering should work fine.

[Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393]

Should try to blue it instead with Birchwood Casey Super Blue. It's only $5.99 and literally wipe-on, wipe off, repeat, done. i used Duplicolor 500 for a while but it is easily removed by anything you clean the gun with, WD-40, Break free CLP, etc. if you have a receiver painted with that, when you clean your gun that paint is coming right off.

[one2za 7]

^No worries man. Good luck and get some before/after pics

Thanks. Too late for "before" pictures. I figured that everyone already knows what the factory sporter looks like. I will post "after" pictures in a couple of weeks when I'm done.

Edited March 11, 2010 by one2za

[Lucas_061287 0]

^Sounds good man.

[boatbod 2]

If you do paint the whole receiver, watch out for oil trapped under the scope mount, under the rivet heads and around the gas block. I thought I had degreassed everything thoroughly, but still had some oil bleed out from those areas as the paint was drying. Thankfully baking the gun to cure the paint also removed the oils.

[MT Predator 2,294]

I used Duplicolor 500 at the recommendation of others on this forum as it matches the factory finish. I prepped and painted it before installing my FCG, Tromix DIY trigger guard, and pistol grip. I masked off just the bottom surface and hit it. I didn't hit it heavy along the masking, more so like a fade. It's very hard to see where the factory and my Duplicolor meet. I'm happy with it and since it is an AK anyway, if it starts to peel, flake, or scratch, I'll hit it again! Mine is not a Safe Queen BTW!