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I just used Rust-o-leum on mine, flat black. But I have seen some of the folks around here get more in depth and use bake paints and other things. Rust o leum did the job nicely imo.

 

That was on my x39

Edited by Chevyman097
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I just order myself the new Dura-Coat sl ( sel lubricating ) . No need to bake just airbrush on . Going to do mine in Rem 870 black . I'm pretty good at spraying , but bought a new airbrush anyway .

Edited by WFO2
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I just converted my rifle today and used a paint my father had from another project. It matched up nicely. I only painted the small bare area on the bottom of the receiver (after you take the trigger guard/plate off). Also, mine had a few chips on the barrel from the gun shop I bought it from. They must have had it on metal wall hooks or something. Anyway, the color is hot rod black and it's a lacquer aerosol. I can't remember which brand it is but I'll check and post back tomorrow.

 

It may not be the best choice if you're going to refinish the entire rifle, but for touch up spots it's great.

 

Update

 

I checked the paint and it's PlastiKote premium lacquer in hot rod black. It dries and hardens quickly and matched really well. Here's a link to it on the plastikote website:

 

PlastiKote Hot Rod Black

 

In the description of the paint it says "deep gloss coating" but the T-3 Hot Rod Black has a finish very similar to the stock saiga. I'll post pics later today.

Edited by Angelo
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what kind of paints for the reciever have you guys used when you do your conversions. something a little chemical resistant and or wear resistant.

 

I used aluma-hyde II from brownells. If you are going to repaint the entire gun it's important to prepare the surface properly for best results. I am not sure if I did it "correctly" but I did a series of cleanings with gun scrubber, carb cleaner, and denatured alcohol before painting. If you use something like alumahyde, it takes a while (several weeks) to fully cure. You also have to wait for the paint to fully cure if you want to apply a second coat - don't apply a second coat after the first coat has already started to cure - it will react poorly. If you are patient - alumahyde is pretty inexpensive and at least for me turned out well. I've used duracoat in the past and liked it as well - it cures and hardens very fast but you need a way to apply it.

 

Also - alumahyde can be fairly thick so don't paint the rails with it - others have reported problems with their guns functioning correctly after painting the rails with the stuff. I ended up using the semi-gloss black and I am on the fence about whether I should have used the matte black instead but overall am pleased.

Edited by mattra
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I use AH II from Brownells. Great Stuff! Just make sure you are totally 'oil-less' and you will have no problem. If you leave it to air dry, it will take at least a week for it to cure, but, it will continue to harden long after that. What I do is bake it at 185 for 1.5 to 2 hours. After that, it is ready to be assembled. I have found that waiting at least a week for it to cure before applying Break-Free/CLP, is best and so far has not removed or damaged my paint. It holds up VERY WELL. I stripped my 7.62 all the way to the metal, prepped and prepped again, sprayed, baked and assembled. That easy. I also like the Teflon-Moly bake on stuff, just stinks to high hell and back. I do not like their Gun-Kote product, it did chip on me, very easy, right after assembly. As for touch ups, I just spray a little in the cap, use a qtipp or small brush, put it on and let it dry. Works great. I like the flat black, but honestly, it kind of appears more like Satin Black. Just a little less shinny. The Darth Earth most certainly is closer to medium-dark brown. Good luck with whatever you decide. This summer, I plan on re-doing one of my stocks for my 700 with Dura-Coat. Will know then on whether or not I like it.

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There are several different types of Duplicolor paint. In my experience (as always, YMMV ;>), the 500 degree low-gloss black is a pretty close color & finish match to the factory Izmash paint - but it is NOT a durable finish. When I was building FALs, I used the 1200 degree (IIRC) Duplicolor ceramic paint, and got absolutely excellent durability, but it requires baking in a parts oven (no big deal, you can build your own with stove pipe & a heat gun ;>). And at times, it would come out of the oven with a very slight purple tint to it, which pissed off some FAL builders, but never bothered me (and on an AK, you can always use plum furniture to match ;>)...

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Someone else suggested Rustoleum Textured Paint in Black.

 

post-8775-12702557233929_thumb.jpg

 

I let it air dry and then baked (preheat to 200 and shut off) for about 20 mins to help harden it.

 

Matches pretty good IMHO. (did my Romy 'ribbed' dustcover and gastube (after I peeled off the metal cover on it)

 

On the bottom a year ago I used WM branded Flat Black and its still fine.

 

If not go with the Dupli 500 Black as stated above..

 

 

 

 

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That's what I used on my conversions and builds. When baked the paint becomes a lot more durable.

The 1200 degree paint (http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductDetail.cfm?ProductId=2063) is a lot (ten times?) more durable than the 500 degree paint, in my experience. And I have tried both, and do bake my parts in a parts oven. Link provided for information purposes only (I buy the paint at local auto parts stores)...

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"I also used the Rustoleum BBQ paint. Cheap and tough. "

 

+1 Here. Matched great. I did the whole rifle, if I missed any spots, you can't tell. It is very important to get all the grease and oil off. You'll double the durability. I used brake cleaner and have had no issues. Then I just sprayed very lightly and repeated a couple times. I've had no wear through normal usage. If I do, I'll just touch up.

 

If I were to change colors away from a Saiga finish, I'd probably spend more money on a better coating.

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