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saiga 12 cleaning


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Hi everyone, first time saiga 12 owner here. I took it out to the range for the first time yesterday. I left the gas selector on "1" and the rifle cycled both slugs and bird shot perfectly. When I took it apart to do a light cleaning, I noticed that the gas selector was difficult to take off (needed to use a screw driver) whereas it was easy to take off before I ever fired any rounds through the gun. After I was able to unscrew it, I turned the gun over and a lot of what seemed like unburned powder fell out (looks like something came through the port holes). I know it wasn't metal shavings because it wasn't magnetic. Also it looks like the threads had gotten a little crudded up with powder on the gas selector.

Is this normal?

I haven't had a chance to fully break it down and look at the gas tube yet.

Thanks!!

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Hi everyone, first time saiga 12 owner here. I took it out to the range for the first time yesterday. I left the gas selector on "1" and the shotgun cycled both slugs and bird shot perfectly. When I took it apart to do a light cleaning, I noticed that the gas selector was difficult to take off (needed to use a screw driver) whereas it was easy to take off before I ever fired any rounds through the gun. After I was able to unscrew it, I turned the gun over and a lot of what seemed like unburned powder fell out (looks like something came through the port holes). I know it wasn't metal shavings because it wasn't magnetic. Also it looks like the threads had gotten a little crudded up with powder on the gas selector.

Is this normal?

I haven't had a chance to fully break it down and look at the gas tube yet.

Thanks!!

 

The gas plug (gas selector) is in the gas block right where gas gets vented from the barrel to drive the piston, and it will of course get some gas residue build up on its threads, so yes what you are describing is definitely perfectly normal.

Edited by Frogfoot
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I use anti-seize on the threads, it helps for both screwing and unscrewing the plug. Also I wouldn't spend anytime cleaning where the gas piston rests, just make sure your ports and piston are clean. Let it build up a nice layer inside the gas block, it will help build a nice seal around the piston as you put more rounds through the gun.

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oh man...

the first time i took my s12 out i put alot of rounds thru it. ALOT! I came home and tried to remove the plug and it wouldnt budge. i needed to use a screwdriver aswell. for a minute it was so hard to remove i thought for sure i had to be stripping the threads...nope just filthy.

 

evry time i take her out it run about 200 or so rounds thru it and the gas tube puck and plug are always caked with junk. Lately ive been considering one of thoes pucks that are supposed to help keep things clean but havent decided yet.

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My gas selector is also hard to turn. Does the entire selector unscrew? Is that necessary for cleaning? If I take it out how do I properly put it back in so that the 1 and 2 position function properly? In other words as I am screwing it back in each time the number 1 position passes the detent it will appear as if it is in the #1 position prior to it being screwed all the way in. Do I screw it in all the way and that = 1 or 2 and then unscrew it a half turn to reach the other position.

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the regulator screws out. to put it back in just screw it back in till it's pretty close to being bottumed out and put it on the setting you want.

 

I clean out the barrel and give the action a quick wipe down after every trip to the range. I clean off the threads on the regulator couple times a month and throw some oil on it. I'll knock the carbon chunks out of the gas system once in awhile and call it a day. The gas tubes on my AK's look like a PA coal mine with all the carbon build up in them. Keeping the barrel and action clean is the biggest thing. Any AK based weapon is pretty resistant to fouling.

Edited by Rusty truck
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I have found, with all of my weapons, that the easiest way to get them clean is to go to the range with a 'wet' weapon. If the Breakfree isn't running out of it somewhere.... it isn't wet enough. I make sure the gas block, puck, and plug are well lubed before anything goes down the tube. This generally makes cleaning a wiping or swabbing task instead of a scraping party. It is great to hear of someone who has a good running weapon without having to do a lot to it. Keep it wet....

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I have found, with all of my weapons, that the easiest way to get them clean is to go to the range with a 'wet' weapon. If the Breakfree isn't running out of it somewhere.... it isn't wet enough. I make sure the gas block, puck, and plug are well lubed before anything goes down the tube. This generally makes cleaning a wiping or swabbing task instead of a scraping party. It is great to hear of someone who has a good running weapon without having to do a lot to it. Keep it wet....

I generally agree with using a 'wet' gun, particularly during the break-in period. I would however not use any lube in the gas system at all, i.e. for the puck, but anti-seize compound for the gas adjust threads is a good idea.

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In addition to the number of rounds before cleaning, I think it important to mention the Manufacturer of the round. For example, 100 rounds of Remington buckshot probably won't foul the gas ports like 100 rounds of Fiocchi buckshot. I've noted that the powder used in Fiocchi low cost buckshot burns dirtier than other brands. I still like the cost and quality of the Fiocchi nickel plated buckshot rounds. Thus I will continue to buy them knowing I'll have to clean my shotties more frequently. I'm guessing nickel plating is the trade off for cleaner powders.

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  • 2 months later...

newbie here with a gas port cleaning question. I just purchased a gas port cleaning kit for Mississippi auto arms and it came with a stainless brush and dental pick. Stupid question probably......but is the stainless brush ok to use or should i find a brass one?? It supposedly attaches to the end of a drill for cleaning. Thanks for the help.

Edited by Taskmaster99
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I just purchased a gas port cleaning kit

 

gas port cleaning kit? what a crock, you didn't need to spend money on that. all you needed was the same 12ga bronze brush you clean your barrel and use that in the gas block, then a swab to wipe out the cleaning solution you use.

 

honestly, no gun needs a "specialized" gadget or gizmo to clean it or any of the parts to it. it's the marketing of them that makes you think you need them.

 

but since you bought it, you might as well use it.

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I just purchased a gas port cleaning kit

 

gas port cleaning kit? what a crock, you didn't need to spend money on that. all you needed was the same 12ga bronze brush you clean your barrel and use that in the gas block, then a swab to wipe out the cleaning solution you use.

 

honestly, no gun needs a "specialized" gadget or gizmo to clean it or any of the parts to it. it's the marketing of them that makes you think you need them.

 

but since you bought it, you might as well use it.

 

Spend your money going to the dentist and ask for a pick...they'll give you one or two.

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  • 5 weeks later...

I cant get the gas puck out. Any suggestions?

 

Unscrew the gas plug and clean out debris. Add some gun solvent or CLP and push the puck to the rear. Rack the charging handle and let fly. Repeat.

If it hasn't loosened enough field strip the gun and use a long wooden dowel to push/tap it out. Be gentle.

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I cant get the gas puck out. Any suggestions?

 

Unscrew the gas plug and clean out debris. Add some gun solvent or CLP and push the puck to the rear. Rack the charging handle and let fly. Repeat.

If it hasn't loosened enough field strip the gun and use a long wooden dowel to push/tap it out. Be gentle.

 

I have to admit, I have been remiss about cleaning this gun. It was caked with garbage. The plug came out no problem, but that damn puck was stuck in there tight. I tried letting it sit in solvent, but that didn't help either. It's obviously air tight as the solvent level didn't drop while it was pooled up on top of it.

 

Anyway, the wooden dowel with some bumps from a rubber mallet did the trick. There was some serious hard debris that fell out with it. Even after I cleaned the puck and the tube it was tough getting it back in. The tolerances are apparently very tight. Granted, I only have probably 500-600 rounds through the gun at this point. I put it and popped it out a half dozen or so times till it loosed up. I'm guessing this will get better with time.

 

Thanks for the tips!

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I was playing around with the rifle some more this afternoon. Oddly enough the puck will not fall out of the gas block. It moves freely when you push it in against the piston. You can push the action back a bit. However, when you till the gun down, the puck will freely move till it gets to the threads for the gas plug. Is this just a break in issue? I'll keep the dowel handy in the meantime :)

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DeputyDog95:

 

That describes my gun with close to 800 rounds through it. I reload 12 pellet 1 buck rounds using 800X and/or WSF and noticed there is less port fouling with better powders than bulk packs. Last weekend I shot about 125 rounds, 800X/WSF, and noticed very little build up!

 

When shooting bulk packs, after 100 or so rounds I let the gun cool, only a little, and remove the bolt carrier and spray solvent in there (twice). I notice black liquid running out the barrel so I suspect thus the ports are getting cleaned out. Then a quick spray of solvent in the barrel and its clean for another 100 rounds. Try removing the gas plug, without a glove, after 100 rounds and you'll cook your finger and thumb!

 

I do break Svetlana down and thoroughly bathe her before putting her in the safe. Bathing her involves an old tooth brush and cheap solvent. I use Rem oil spray on moving parts and grease on the bolt carrier and mating rails. Rack the bolt a few times and remove excess grease. Apply antisieze to the gas plug threads.

 

Done.

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