mikey1 0 Posted April 13, 2005 Report Share Posted April 13, 2005 (edited) I've just had my Saiga 7.62x39 out for a test run today. The little piece of 3/4" pipe /bullet feed ramp modification really does work,GREAT INPUT from the FORUM. I'm "aiming" (HA,HA) towards the 3-gun comptition end of the game. I use a compensated .38 Super STI gun for my open pistol class gun. Can I get some input from the forum members about adding a compensator/muzzle brake to my rifle? I've done the basics and know that the front sight can be replaced with a threaded one BUT there seems to be some confusion in my mind as to just what fits the Saiga barrel and who sells what??? Any help is appriciated. I can see I will be changing the trigger groups on both the rifle and shotgun, I have "stoned" them both and... I don't think they are what I want. I'm not complaing and never leave well enough alone? (YOU can't have too many guns!) mikey1 Edited April 14, 2005 by mikey1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted April 13, 2005 Report Share Posted April 13, 2005 (edited) Edited April 13, 2005 by vjor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey1 0 Posted April 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2005 Thanks vjor,Itwould seem the best idea is to use a front sight that has a thread already on it... I see that there are different adaptor sizes that can adapt different muzzle /compensators Off hand,I am told the Bulgarian front sight(threaded) is the same as the Siaga barrel o.d. But I don't know this? I guess that is the question ..who's barrel is the same od as the Saiga's,then I could use their front sight/break. mikey1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted April 14, 2005 Report Share Posted April 14, 2005 (edited) On my 7.62, I had to remove the sleeve over the barrel in front of the front sight block... I used a dremel tool and some masking tape... Mask around the sleeve where you want to make the cut, to give you a straight line as a guide... I went about 1/8th of an inch in front of the sight... then used the cutting wheel on the dremel to lightly score all the way around the taped off line... once I had a scored line, I started cutting SLOWLY... around and a round... a little at one point, then moved around a bit, and went a little more... it took about 10 minutes of fine cutting to get it to the depth of the barrel... I ended up lightly scoring the barrel with the cutoff wheel, but nothing like the depth I would be threading to... the sleeve just twisted off nice as you please with a pair of pliers... I then threaded the barrel with 14X1LH threading die... to about 3/8ths of an inch from the sight... I figure I can thread MORE if I need to... but I didnt want to have threads visible if the brake threads on only so far... ( still waiting for the break to arrive via the hot lil lady in brown...LOL ) I also have a 14X1LH barrel nut coming, in case I need to tighten the brake if it doesnt align properly to where the threads are already cut... this will be some trial and error for me, as its my first threading job... It took me all of 5 minutes to thread the barrel... just use the die and a TAT and cutting oil.. make SLOW turns, about a 1/4 turn at a time, then back the die off, then cut another 1/4 turn, then back it off... repeating that process adding oil frequently, till I was at the depth of threading I wanted... a pretty easy job! Threading kits can be purchased here.... http://dynasystems-ltd.com/threadingkits.htm They also have breaks...as Vjor pointed out in his link up above...BUT.... DO NOT buy an ANGULAR break from them, they can be had for about 12 bucks elsewhere... their other break prices are very reasonable, though! Any questions, please ask!! good luck!! Edited April 14, 2005 by IndyArms Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pistonring8 1 Posted April 15, 2005 Report Share Posted April 15, 2005 Hey! That method sounds awefully familiar. I like the big side hole style compensator with the holes up top to control muzzle climb and keep the blast from blowing dust up off the ground. I have heard from several sources that this is the most effective style of compensator. I ended up MIG welding mine on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
uzitiger 193 Posted April 15, 2005 Report Share Posted April 15, 2005 (edited) I filed the sleeve off the barrel end and added a threaded adapter to it. I tried the Krinkov style muzzle brake and it works nicely as long as the holes point upward. If you use an adapter, tighten the screws and use a thread locking compound so it won't loosen and send your compensator downrange. (It happened to me.) The adapter allows you to try different muzzle brakes or flash suppressors. Edited April 15, 2005 by uzitiger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted April 16, 2005 Report Share Posted April 16, 2005 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stokstad 4 Posted April 16, 2005 Report Share Posted April 16, 2005 heres how I cut the FSB perfect line and no nicking of the barrel http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=4456&hl= Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IndyArms 10,186 Posted April 17, 2005 Report Share Posted April 17, 2005 I tried that, but didnt get close enough to the FSB for my taste... I wanted the *ENTIRE* sleeve gone... BUT.... the pipe cutter DOES work... and works VERY WELL!!! As long as you dont want to cut the sleeve off FLUSH... DO THAT!!! (USE the PIPE cutter!!) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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