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So Just How Corrosive is 7n6 Ammo?


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Nalioth.. I think he means it smells... more acid-ic in nature then other rifles with non-corrosive ammo..

 

I think it does smell.. but I like the smell of FIRED ammo early in the mornin'..

 

I just go home 15 miles away and clean my 5.45 out and use the bottle brush on the gas tube and call it done..

 

Hoppes 9 oil the action and rails and again.. done..

 

Just take out the BOLT assy and clean that well and also clean the gas piston down and do the bottle brush trick above..

 

I use a Qtip for the 'insides' near the FCG and such..

 

Don't make a HUGE deal about it.. I'm sure other countries that have 0 water barely clean theres at all and they still get them to function fine enough to kill people.. :killer:

 

 

 

 

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I just go home 15 miles away and clean my 5.45 out and use the bottle brush on the gas tube and call it done..

 

You don't remove the gas tube to clean? Also, do you flush the residue and crud out of your gas tube or not?

 

I'm asking because I'm working on a cleaning routine for my 5.45 that will have an Ultimak.

 

Thanks.

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Not all corrosive ammo smells like rotten cat piss.

 

It's the cheap-shit powder the commies use that causes this smell.

 

 

You want to learn something for yourself?

 

Pull the cartridge and dump the powder from some 7N6, and then fire the empty cartridge. Does it smell like rotten cat piss? I don't think so.

 

The primer holds the corrosive material - not the powder.

 

The burnt powder is what smells like rotten cat piss.

 

You could pull the bullet in your whole tin of 7N6, and reload with quality American powder (that doesn't smell like cat piss), and it'd still be "corrosive ammo".

 

Your "smell theory" is invalid.

Edited by nalioth
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Jim,

 

Unfortunately I do remove the gas tube to clean it and then after shooting rem-clean into it and scrubbing with the bottle brush I then rinse the crud out with water and let it AIR dry before I put Helene (aka 5.45x39 Saiga) back together..

 

I wipe down the piston with rem-clean abit and then set it aside for abit till the gas tube is dry enough to re-assemble.

 

On the good note.. maybe the Wolf 5.45 60gr FMJ ammo will come down a few $ more and we can have options..

 

I buy 300-600 rounds of 7N6 at a time and sit on 200 rounds of ammo for most my rifles..

 

I shoot 100-150 rounds thru each rifle EACH outing.. So you figure I'm popping about 400-500 rounds in 2 hours.. :killer:

 

Last time out I did 120 rounds of 308 and 80 rounds in my 7.62x39 as I am running low on some ammo :cryss:

 

Almost time for more 5.45 ammo as I am down to <200 rounds for that..

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You can't smell "corrosive".

 

Go stick your nose to some ammonia, inhale and get back to me on your claim.

Last I looked, ammonia wasn't corrosive.

 

Skip much school?

I may have skipped up 2 grades, but I still have the innergores to back me up!

http://www.health.st...mmonia_tech.htm

3rd bullet down under "What is Ammonia?"

 

http://corrosion-doc...s-chemicals.htm

Scroll down to Ammonia and read the last sentence. remember that bullets are copper jacketed and some cases are zinc coated(silver bear I believe)

 

I could go on and on.

 

and on your powder explanation, I agree the corrosive property of the ammo lies in the mercuric primers. The smell I notice after firing is not "rotten cat piss" but a sharp odor that does burn my nose.

Edited by toshbar
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You can't smell "corrosive".

 

Go stick your nose to some ammonia, inhale and get back to me on your claim.

Last I looked, ammonia wasn't corrosive.

 

Skip much school?

I may have skipped up 2 grades, but I still have the innergores to back me up!

http://www.health.st...mmonia_tech.htm

3rd bullet down under "What is Ammonia?"

"Chemical terrorism" links? You don't think they just make stuff up to keep the sheeple in place?

 

Where's the page on dihydrogen monoxide? It's corrosive and lurking all around us.

 

http://corrosion-doc...s-chemicals.htm

Scroll down to Ammonia and read the last sentence. remember that bullets are copper jacketed and some cases are zinc coated(silver bear I believe)

So what? There is no ammonia in a cartridge, otherwise it'd react with any copper and produce a box of lead and dust. "Ammonia smell" ≠ "ammonia presence".

 

I could go on and on.

About what? You're shooting blanks here. Ammonia does not affect steel or chrome (even if you could find it in a cartridge).

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So what? There is no ammonia in a cartridge, otherwise it'd react with any copper and produce a box of lead and dust. "Ammonia smell" ≠ "ammonia presence".

 

I could go on and on.

About what? You're shooting blanks here. Ammonia does not affect steel or chrome (even if you could find it in a cartridge).

I wasn't saying that there is ammonia in ammo. It was more general. You told me I couldn't smell 'corrosive', to which I countered to go smell ammonia, which is corrosive and can be smelled, but has nothing to do with ammo or guns.

 

Sorry for any discrepancies.

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  • 1 month later...

After following my cleaning regiment with the bottle brush in the gastube and a little 9 here and there.. all is still well.

 

Got about 900 rounds thru mine with no issues..

 

I figured I'd also bump this to the top for anyone new with 5.45x39 or 'salty' ammo.. :lolol:

 

 

Al

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Any of the black powder cleaners will work. I used to use hot soapy water but the BP cleaners are easier and can be used in the field. Use the BP cleaner first then clean the bore with solvent. Then oil with CLP. I also spray a little WD40 into hard to reach places like the gas port. I shoot BP and clean the same. No rust so far.

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As I suspected, there are degrees of corrosiveness with various kinds of ammo:

http://7.62x54r.net/Forums/index.php?topic=7987.0

 

That guy needs a control though. Let's see if a "non-corrosive" primer leaves any rust after 14 days.

 

Well, he did use Wolf. But Wolf might be suspect. Too bad didn't pick up a box of 7.62x54r Winchester ammo from Wal-Mart.

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40+ years of shooting military "corrosive" ammo here.

10+ years of shooting "corrosive" ammo out of a Saiga.

 

On a regular hunt we shoot probably 100-150 rounds of corrosive out of each gun over a 24 hour period. We lay them in the mud and get hog/deer blood all over them. We throw them in the back of the truck. When we get back to the house I spray the outside and insides with Moose Piss ( Ballistol+Water=Moose Piss) or Windex followed by WD-40. The WD-40 disperses all the water from the Windex.

 

Soon thereafter I clean them just like any other gun. I have no rust anywhere and all my Saiga's look brand new.

I always follow up internal parts with a light coating of Kroil Oil and I am done. The Kroil Oil and Ballistol form a film on all metal parts (internal and external) so we do not worry about any set time frame of the corrosive salts in the primers causing a issue....before we spray 'em down.

 

Do not fear corrosive ammo anymore than you would fear sitting to close to the TV and going blind. Your gun aint going to turn into a pile of rust flakes in 20 minutes.....If you properly clean and oil any gun it will form a protective layer on the metal guys.................

 

My last thought on this subject.....If I prop my Saiga up I would have to have a 2" dick to piss down the barrel....so I will not be able to test the "piss theory".....

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My last thought on this subject.....If I prop my Saiga up I would have to have a 2" dick to piss down the barrel....so I will not be able to test the "piss theory".....

 

I have this same problem.

 

Hence the side folding stock. :lolol:

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My last thought on this subject.....If I prop my Saiga up I would have to have a 2" dick to piss down the barrel....so I will not be able to test the "piss theory".....

 

I have this same problem.

 

Hence the side folding stock. :lolol:

Don't you guys know anything?

 

You clean your barrels from the chamber end.

 

There, now when you say you use the 'piss method', people will figure you're well endowed to reach the target area naaaa.gif

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