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blkgunlvr

So Just How Corrosive is 7n6 Ammo?

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After spraying Windex or water into the weapon, it obviously needs to be thoroughly wiped/swiped with patches until completely dry. Leaving any kind of moisture on the weapon is just asking for trouble.

. . . this is why boiling water (or as close to it as you desire) is so nice for cleaning . .

 

It evaporates quite nicely.

I take a hair dryer to my Saiga. I give it a bubble bath after I shoot corrosive through it.

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After spraying Windex or water into the weapon, it obviously needs to be thoroughly wiped/swiped with patches until completely dry. Leaving any kind of moisture on the weapon is just asking for trouble.

. . . this is why boiling water (or as close to it as you desire) is so nice for cleaning . .

 

It evaporates quite nicely.

 

Speaking of quick evaporation, I wonder how well rubbing alcohol would work for this? I mean, that stuff evaporates completely in about a minute.

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After spraying Windex or water into the weapon, it obviously needs to be thoroughly wiped/swiped with patches until completely dry. Leaving any kind of moisture on the weapon is just asking for trouble.

. . . this is why boiling water (or as close to it as you desire) is so nice for cleaning . .

 

It evaporates quite nicely.

 

Speaking of quick evaporation, I wonder how well rubbing alcohol would work for this? I mean, that stuff evaporates completely in about a minute.

Rubbing alcohol won't dilute the salts.

 

It also can effect plastics and such.

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So what if you are out in the woods for a few days or longer and don't want to carry a bottle of windex or boil water every time you shoot? What do the military guys do when they are in the field?

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rubbing alcohol will begin to take the factory paint right off your saiga. You'll get purple colored residue as you wipe off the alcohol, and it will probably eat the finish right off if you let it.

 

Enough with the fucking corrosive ammo questions.

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So what if you are out in the woods for a few days or longer and don't want to carry a bottle of windex or boil water every time you shoot? What do the military guys do when they are in the field?

 

I'd like to know too. Until then, I suggest

1) Using non-corrosive ammo out in the woods, or

2) Using 1980s 5.45 surplus, which several sources have reported to be _less_ corrosive. This needs to be verified empirically though. I suggest firing one mag through the rifle using 70s ammo, switching gas tubes, then firing another mag with 80s ammo, and then leaving the gas tubes to sit for several days, observing the effects. I'm tempted to pop open a can of the 80s stuff and try this.

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So what if you are out in the woods for a few days or longer and don't want to carry a bottle of windex or boil water every time you shoot? What do the military guys do when they are in the field?

 

I'd like to know too. Until then, I suggest

1) Using non-corrosive ammo out in the woods, or

2) Using 1980s 5.45 surplus, which several sources have reported to be _less_ corrosive. This needs to be verified empirically though. I suggest firing one mag through the rifle using 70s ammo, switching gas tubes, then firing another mag with 80s ammo, and then leaving the gas tubes to sit for several days, observing the effects. I'm tempted to pop open a can of the 80s stuff and try this.

Is that like "less pregnant"?

 

Sheesh. Just clean your weapon after you finish shooting it.

 

When you get home, you can give it a bath if it still needs one (take my word for it, it's not going to be eaten away before then).

 

 

Can someone please tell me when "firing corrosive ammo" became synonymous with "pouring concentrated acid on your gun"?

Edited by nalioth

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Is that like "less pregnant"?

 

Sheesh. Just clean your weapon after you finish shooting it.

 

When you get home, you can give it a bath if it still needs one (take my word for it, it's not going to be eaten away before then).

 

Can someone please tell me when "firing corrosive ammo" became synonymous with "pouring concentrated acid on your gun"?

 

Nalioth, you're as delightful as ever.

 

I was responding to a question about what to do if you're out in the field for several days, possibly unable to clean your weapon in a timely fashion. Another concern I have (admittedly not highly likely, but well within the realm of possibility) is what happens to your weapon if you use it in a self-defense shooting, and it has to sit in the police lock-up for a few weeks?

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Thanks Jim and Nailoth. Nailoth, you would be surprised at how many reports are out there that state if you don't clean your gun within 20 minutes after firing corrosive ammo you are fucked. It's a pretty elusive subject when it comes to getting basic yes or no's.

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is what happens to your weapon if you use it in a self-defense shooting, and it has to sit in the police lock-up for a few weeks?

There was a report of a Kalashnikov being impounded by fish-and-game or whoever (I can't remember the agency), to sit in the impound until "everything is straightened out". The owner reported getting his WASR back several months later with the barrel rusted severely (chrome lining and all).

 

So I guess if you get your AK impounded after firing corrosive ammo, you'll be "using it like a Yugo" after you get it back.

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Nailoth, you would be surprised at how many reports are out there that state if you don't clean your gun within 20 minutes after firing corrosive ammo you are fucked.

 

I haven't found that to be true. However, after getting rust in my gas tube and gas block after one day of neglect, I'm pretty quick to clean everything now. By "pretty quick", I mean within 4 or 5 hours. And I usually run a bore snake with Hoppe's #9 before leaving the range.

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There was a report of a Kalashnikov being impounded by fish-and-game or whoever (I can't remember the agency), to sit in the impound until "everything is straightened out". The owner reported getting his WASR back several months later with the barrel rusted severely (chrome lining and all).

 

So I guess if you get your AK impounded after firing corrosive ammo, you'll be "using it like a Yugo" after you get it back.

 

Probably so, but if there's anything I can do to prevent that, I'd like to do it. But even if the gun is all rusted out, use in one self-defense shooting would justify its whole purchase price, so it's not like it would be a _huge_ loss.

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Nailoth, you would be surprised at how many reports are out there that state if you don't clean your gun within 20 minutes after firing corrosive ammo you are fucked.

 

I haven't found that to be true. However, after getting rust in my gas tube and gas block after one day of neglect, I'm pretty quick to clean everything now. By "pretty quick", I mean within 4 or 5 hours. And I usually run a bore snake with Hoppe's #9 before leaving the range.

 

 

 

I wonder if brake cleaner works, that stuff seems to get everything off.

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I wonder if brake cleaner works, that stuff seems to get everything off.

. . . to include some paints and plastics.

 

 

Stick to h²o or the standard cleaners, 'kay?

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I used to use the brake cleaner on my AR, back when I was under the impression that they needed to be spotless.

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Also make sure to OIL the spots that may bind.. Mine would bind up almost weekly (from prior week)..

 

After checking the bolt assy and other parts I noticed some RUST spots on the BLACK part of the bolt assy that the gas piston screws into..

 

post-8775-082349200 1278632783_thumb.jpg

 

I have since put a small drop of oil (not the chrome piston itself) on it and let it sit for almost 2 weeks this time and it racked' right up..

 

I also now remove the gas tube and clean that also.. (that thing was starting to go down hill).. With the carbon and light surface rust.

 

 

Albert

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i guess that means that 7n6 is a ton more corrosive than the spam can bulgy 7.62x54r? i ran a couple hundred rounds through my psl last month and have not had an issue yet.i did douch it with rem oil inside the receiver and barrel before and after use.also i bet climate probably has alot to do with how serious the reaction is as with russia fighting afghan in the ak-74's prime with 7n6 and being in a dry ass desert.im sure with being in the field your standard cleaning kit along with oil and patches you can carry will keep it alive untill you can "get back to base" where you have all the cleaning supplys and time to do a thurough break down.as far as cleaning it with water......are you fucking serious?that to me seems like your asking for it.water goes places where rags,pipe cleaners,dental tools will not.even if you use an air compressor(which can blow moisture from its own source inside)can trap moisture up inside spots that you may belive is dry and slowy seep out later.besides that deffinetly would not be a field friendly way to clean/prevent anyway.its just too bad that with the price and especially balistics the 7n6 is corrosive.guess we cant have it all.

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as far as cleaning it with water......are you fucking serious?

 

 

LOL

 

I do it all the time.

 

Rinse the rifles down with a garden hose and clean them normally after. 6 years, many thousands of rounds of corrosive and have yet to see any damage.

 

 

 

Z

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OK, I've gone and done it! Shot 200 rounds of factory 270 from 1982 in the Saiga yesterday and discovered I forgot in our rush to go to grab my wash down stuff. So as I sit here typing my 5.45x39 is either a rusty heap, half pregnant or not even touched. I'll get up, get some more coffee, zip open the gun case and report back.

 

If it is a heap I may shoot myself!

 

:sadam:

Edited by Fluid Power

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OK, I've gone and done it! Shot 200 rounds of factory 270 from 1982 in the Saiga yesterday and discovered I forgot in our rush to go to grab my wash down stuff. So as I sit here typing my 5.45x39 is either a rusty heap, half pregnant or not even touched. I'll get up, get some more coffee, zip open the gun case and report back.

 

If it is a heap I may shoot myself!

 

:sadam:

 

 

 

 

I'm back and can say there is not ONE speck of rust on any of it! Not even the DPH screw on compensator that was finished in the white and spray painted with Hi Temp spray paint! You would think that would be covered with rust!

 

I'm going to clean it, don't worry.:killer:

Edited by Fluid Power

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Fluid.. If you wait about a week you will see light surface rust (like mine above) on that area and also in the gas tube..

 

The FCG and internals get almost nothing. just looks 'sooty'/carboned'. A Q-tip is my friend.. and the RemClean.

 

Got a baby bottle brush to do inside the gas tube easier for $1 at the $ store yesterday.. (get one with the nylon bristles and not the spongy crap thing).

 

As of the moment all is well :super: on my S-5.45..

 

Just takes some 'learning curve' to see what areas holds the 'salts' and then Xtra clean them..

 

Still the ammo savings are great unless the 7.62x39 drops to $150/1000 then we may have competition..

(don't see $150 happening, maybe $175/1000)

 

Side note.. I'm supposed to clean the barrel too... geezz.. Haven't done that in over 500 rounds.. :lolol:

 

Albert

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Fluid.. If you wait about a week you will see light surface rust (like mine above) on that area and also in the gas tube..

 

The FCG and internals get almost nothing. just looks 'sooty'/carboned'. A Q-tip is my friend.. and the RemClean.

 

Got a baby bottle brush to do inside the gas tube easier for $1 at the $ store yesterday.. (get one with the nylon bristles and not the spongy crap thing).

 

As of the moment all is well :super: on my S-5.45..

 

Just takes some 'learning curve' to see what areas holds the 'salts' and then Xtra clean them..

 

Still the ammo savings are great unless the 7.62x39 drops to $150/1000 then we may have competition..

(don't see $150 happening, maybe $175/1000)

 

Side note.. I'm supposed to clean the barrel too... geezz.. Haven't done that in over 500 rounds.. :lolol:

 

Albert

 

AAAA++++++ On the baby bottle brush lead! Great Idea as that area does get real grungy!

 

I use a special rust preventive sold only to companies and is not on the consumer market. Get it free at trade shows. Is non toxic and does not use petroleum base! Time will tell. When I do the wash down I chase it with WD40 to displace the water.

 

:zorro:

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AAAA++++++ On the baby bottle brush lead! Great Idea as that area does get real grungy!

I use only boiling water in the gas tube - not even any oil - except that rare occasion when I actually want to _really_ clean it. However, since I've recently set up one of my 5.45 rifles with an Ultimak, I may resort to the bottle brush, as I will not be able to detach my gas tube any longer (except maybe once every year or two).

 

 

I use a special rust preventive sold only to companies and is not on the consumer market. Get it free at trade shows. Is non toxic and does not use petroleum base! Time will tell. When I do the wash down I chase it with WD40 to displace the water.

 

What about an air compressor? I've been thinking about using one in the rifle with the Ultimak, after sending some boiling water down the tube. I don't think it's necessary to displace water in a gas tube that can be detached, though, since boiling water will evaporate.

Edited by Jim Digriz

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Hmmm, all this corrosive talk is making me think.

 

If SHTF, my primary would be my Saiga 74 shooting corrosive. When it comes to cleaning my rifle, would I just throw it in a pond or something or just carry around a bottle of windex?

 

Squad Leader: Alright, everyone clean your rifles.

 

Me: Alright, let me pull out my windex.

 

Everyone: *Gives me a strange look*

 

I could see "windex" becoming my call sign. :rolleyes:

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So what if you are out in the woods for a few days or longer and don't want to carry a bottle of windex or boil water every time you shoot? What do the military guys do when they are in the field?

 

GUNZILLA! It's CLP that cleans corrosive! it's a little pricy and you'd have to carry bit more of it than typical CLP, but I think you can get 3 good cleanings out of a 1/2oz CLP bottle. Just be sure to snake the bore and wipe off the bolt/carrier immediately after use, then clean fully later.

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So what if you are out in the woods for a few days or longer and don't want to carry a bottle of windex or boil water every time you shoot? What do the military guys do when they are in the field?

 

GUNZILLA! It's CLP that cleans corrosive! it's a little pricy and you'd have to carry bit more of it than typical CLP, but I think you can get 3 good cleanings out of a 1/2oz CLP bottle. Just be sure to snake the bore and wipe off the bolt/carrier immediately after use, then clean fully later.

 

 

 

Thanks man.

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Is that like "less pregnant"?

 

Sheesh. Just clean your weapon after you finish shooting it.

 

When you get home, you can give it a bath if it still needs one (take my word for it, it's not going to be eaten away before then).

 

 

Can someone please tell me when "firing corrosive ammo" became synonymous with "pouring concentrated acid on your gun"?

 

Some ammunition is more corrosive than other. After firing my 5.45 with russian milsurp, if I smell the breech, I burn my nose, but after firing corrosive russian 54R out of my M44 I can barely smell a hint of the corrosive at the breech.

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