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Finally got my Saiga 12 coverted..pic


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p10103097sn.jpg

 

Have to give a huge thanks to Caspian who did all the work, I just stood around and tried not to get in the way.. Used button head hex screws for attaching the triggerguard. The stock is a US made "NATO" length from K-VAR corp. SAW grip is from Tapco. Caspian has a unique way of cutting the barrel down, but I have to admit it works well.... :)

 

Thanks again Caspian!

 

BTW, he also cut down the barrel on my SAS12, I'll have to get a pic of that too as it looks pretty cool now.

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The barrel was cut using a really big pipe cutter, a few spins on the barrel and ....pop!.....shorter barrel. The trigger guard is an original Saiga 12C trigger guard purchased from Tantal, I still have the one removed from the gun. I have a better, more close up pic, but I need to resize it first, I didn't realize the camera was set at 1600X1200 until after I took it.. Might take a while to load for dial up users.

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The barrel was cut using a really big pipe cutter, a few spins on the barrel and ....pop!.....shorter barrel. 

 

That isn't the best method.

Pipe cutters work best for the initial score, but you should finish it off with a fine toothed hacksaw.

 

Pipecutters displace metal, they don't really "cut" it.

If you measured the barrel thickness at the muzzle of a barrel that had been saw cut and one that had been pipe-cutter cut, you would see a real difference.

The problem with this new "choke" sort of thing is that it will impart purchase on your wad and alter your pattern.

 

Someone here mentioned a gold ball with lapping compound to crown the interior edges after having been cut. I've tried this and can report that it works very well.

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MrO: was there a lot of metal left inside the barrel after using the pipe cutter? Like the lip you normally find in pipe, when done cutting.

 

 

 

Someone here mentioned a gold ball with lapping compound to crown the interior edges after having been cut. I've tried this and can report that it works very well.

 

Can you tell us anymore about the "gold ball" that is used? I guess I missed that post and definately wanna recrown mine.

 

Guess ill try the score, then hacksaw....

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LOL!

Typo. Sorry.

 

Golf Ball.

 

Use a rather coarse lapping compound (valve grinding is best for this, IMO) on the underside of a golf ball. Place it in the end of the barrel and while under pressure, rotate it around, thus lapping your internal muzzle crown.

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Mr. Orange didn't elaborate enough on the barrel cutting. We used a pipe cutter which indeed leaves a ridge of displaced metal around the edge of the barrel. That is cleaned up with a dremel and a cone shaped stone. Using the dremel, you remove the lip. It's pretty easy b/c the rotation of the stone follows the round barrel and makes for a pretty even clean up.

 

I think we ended up with about 3 hours in the conversion. If you take away time i was on the phone with the wife and the the initial assembly WITHOUT the safety (had to break it down and start over), it could be done in 2 hours.

 

Later

Caspian

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MR O or Caspian,

 

Will you be adding a choke to the end of your barrel?

Do you know if you need to add a choke to enhance the pattern of shot or slugs?

If so will you be using a threaded choke like ones manufactured by Remington?

If you will be adding a threaded choke how do you plan to thread the end of your barrel?

I am very new to this forum and I don't know much about Shotties?

All that I know is what I have read here.

 

Thanks,

T1

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