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So far so good. I've read here posts here for many nights and am pretty much just waiting on a stock set, brake and trigger. I've got everything I need as far as screws and even the black plastic hole plugs which really do look like rivets.

 

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I didn't knock out the front rivet and instead sanded it down. One less hole to plug and refinishing should hide it.

 

 

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Cutting the sleeve off was pretty easy. Nope, no threads under there. I'm waiting on a brake so I can thread the muzzle.

 

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Filing down the gas tube was easy and it locks in nice and snug.

 

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I still have to drill and tap for the bullet guide and instal the trigger guard. That will be done one night this week.

 

Once everything is assembled and I range test it, I'm going to refinish with Duracoat unless I find a better alternative.

Edited by Milsurps 4 Me
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I finally got the cash together on Monday to order everything I need to complete this conversion right down to Duracoat. Now I have an e mail box full of tracking numbers and shipping info and am sitting around waiting for parts.

Five more days until I can start building. :wacko:

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Last night I drilled a pilot hole in the trunnion for the bullet guide and installed the Tapco trigger group and retaining plate. I still need to add the safety lever and decide if I want to reinstall the bolt hold open:

 

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Today I got the right number drill bit for a tap that I had on hand and drilled for the tap size. I was surprised at how soft the Saiga steel was to drill through. One thing I've learned from using a drill press is that clamping parts down so nothing moves makes it much easier. I use a few different style C clamps. They're cheap and work well for securing parts and tools, and the best part is you can make quick adjustments w/out using bolts and nuts. A decent drill press vice is also a must as long as you use a rag or peices of wood so you don't damage what you're working on:

 

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Tapping was a breeze and while I was scared to drill and tap anything at first, the SKS Choate scope mount project got me over my fears of doing it. Just like everything you've ever read... lots of cuting fluid, a 1/4 turn, then back off to get the chips out, 1/4 turn, back off, etc. etc. until you're through:

 

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With the bullet guide screwed in place I checked the bolt function and everything seems good to go. Once I know everything works, I'll use thread locker on the screw:

 

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Here is a shot of the modified trigger guard snugged down with a screw and nut:

 

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Now that the build is nearing completion, I got giddy and for the hell of it snapped one of the plastic cap plugs in one of the rivet holes. It really does look just like a rivet and fits very tight. Much easier than welding the holes closed!

I also installed an old Romanian pistol grip to see how it would look. The K-Var stock set I have coming tomorrow looks just like it so I'll be using the grip that comes with it to play along with that whole 922 compliance crap rule.

 

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If all goes well I should be hitting the range Wednesday after work for a function test, and maybe refinishing with Duracoat on Thursday. Or I might wait until the brake I ordered gets here and refinish the whole thing at once.

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I just finished a few minutes ago. So far everything works like it should. Range trip tomorrow night. Only problem I had is the lower handguard retainer cracked a little at the bottom when I did the cut and spread to fit over the barrel and hold in place with a long screw trick.

I understand now what one poster was saying about the retainer lips and heat shield handguards. I'm not to keen on how it fits so I'll probably swap it sooner or later. I may just go for broke and remove the FSB and gas block to do it the right way.

Not bad though IMO for my first conversion.

 

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Great job! I really like the K-Var stocks.

 

I'm doing S12s, but want to try a 7.62 conversion next, this had some useful info for me, thanks!

 

But i think i still need to some research on the forum, since "filing down the gas tube" is a new one to me.

 

I've done a couple things with Duracoat now... not advertising for them, mind you... but so far, they are holding up ok to my improvised scratch and chemicals tests (basic cleaning stuff). Still haven't range tested the coating on the shotgun. Used it over others because i don't have an oven big enough to bake a Saiga ;-) (and liked the color variety)

 

When you do it, though, the advice i've read the most (and with which i took a lot of care) was surface prep... get it reeeeeally clean, sandblast or sand if possible, but watch out for messing up the nice russian lettering on the sides.

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But i think i still need to some research on the forum, since "filing down the gas tube" is a new one to me.

 

Its just so the locking lever can clear the bevel on the rear of the gas tube. If you compare your rifle's gas tube and the replacement, you'll probably see a difference in the angle its beveled at.

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Looks great 022.gif

 

Things to watch for are:

 

BG screw loosing up.

Front HG lower moving (need to notch the bbl abit)

Hammer spring jumping into the FCG from the BHO side..

 

 

Albert

 

I'm going to add some loc-tite to the bullet guide screw and notched the barrel so I could get the screw through the top of the handguard retainer. Is there a prevention fix for the spring?

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Looks great 022.gif

 

Things to watch for are:

 

BG screw loosing up.

Front HG lower moving (need to notch the bbl abit)

Hammer spring jumping into the FCG from the BHO side..

 

 

Albert

 

I'm going to add some loc-tite to the bullet guide screw and notched the barrel so I could get the screw through the top of the handguard retainer. Is there a prevention fix for the spring?

You could file down your FTG and reinstall the BHO. I know nothing about gunsmithing or converting and I figured it out in an hour or so.

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