Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 (edited) OK, I have yet to see a single tutorial for this anywhere. And since a bunch of people have helped me out with my project I figure I would put a tutorial together for anyone else down the road. I have only the most basic of tools and am going to outline how this is done as such. It is possible with very few, simple tools. There are other ways to do with, with a press (about $129-179 at Harbor Freight) and metric bits/pins. Below is how I did it, this method uses minimal tools and what I have on hand. Tools I used: - Dremel - Sledge Hammer - Ball Peen Hammer - Wood Block - Drill - 3/32 Titanium Bit - Iron nails First, begin by removing the factory front sight block and barrel shroud. The barrel shroud is attached to the front sight block, and can be removed either separately or together. The Saiga's front sight block is not pinned on like a regular AK's is, it has dimples and is pressed on . Some have regular pinned on front sight blocks. Mine is dimpled on. Block on: To remove the dimpled block, I cut paralell to the barrel, right along the dimples with a dremel. I went very slow, and every so often tried to smash it off with the sledge hammer. You don't want to cut into the barrel by accident, only a little kiss, not even. Eventually, after cutting enough, simply smack it with the sledge hammer and it will come flying off in two pieces. Block off: When you put the gun in the vise to smash anything, don't squeeze the receiver. You're gonna be pounding on it with a sledge hammer so you do not want to put stress on the receiver, you can probably fuck the gun up pretty bad that way. You will be smacking this thing pretty hard with a sledge hammer so be aware of how and where you are striking the gun and not putting undue pressure on parts. Severed Block: Now the block is ready to be installed. Due to legal reasons mine had to be welded in place, my brake and block are one unit, and the bayonet lug is ground off. When doing this part, you would do this with just the sight block, or a welded unit in some states. I was surprised that I was actually able to press it on with my hands maybe the first 1/5 of the way. After that I took the rubber mallet, and was able to smack it on about halfway. From there, I eyeballed the sight tower and whacked it with the hammer, gently, to index it roughly. From there, A little more indexing, and then a wood block on top of the brake, pounded with a sledge hammer. I had a hard time rigging it up in the vice, do I just held it in one hand with the other hand using the hammer. After it was on about 3/4 the way, I took the wood block down and just used hammer to the brake. Once it was fully down, I indexed it one final time. This time I used a piece of string tied to the buttstock, put it in the rear sight notch, and then had the string (dental floss) against the top of the post, and eyeballed how even it was with the barrel. Not really the most scientific way or anything, but I was sober so there's a 1-up on the typical east bloc factory worker After that, I drilled through the holes with a 3/32 drill bit, making sure to go carefully and evenly. After that, I took some nails and pounded them through with the sledge hammer, then with the block against the anvil on the vise, keep straightening and pounding them with the sledge and ball peen until they were driven in hard and seized up good. You can tell because the nail will be bending outside the block and needing straightened more and more. Then I cut the excess nail off, and did a little more pounding with a sledge/punch and then the ball peen again. Some final touch up and it's good to go. Hopes this helps someone. Big thanks to everyone who helped me along the way, especially Nalioth and Paulski. Edited May 8, 2010 by Klassy Kalashnikov 8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Polak 10 Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 Nice. When is part 2 coming? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted May 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 Nice. When is part 2 coming? Hopefully by the end of the week, someone is welding the brake to the block for me and then mailing it back. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Coils 2 Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 Nice pics, very clear. I removed mine basicly the same way, used a 4.5" angle grinder with cut off wheel for the bulk of it, then a dremel to get as close to the barrel as I could. After seeing how deep those dimples are, I don't think I'd try to just press them off without a cut or at least drilling the dimples some. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
getitat 609 Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 Hello Are all the rifle's FSB's "dimpled" on like this now? The ones that I've previously removed were pinned (.308 and x39) they seem easier than these. -guido Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted May 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2010 Hello Are all the rifle's FSB's "dimpled" on like this now? The ones that I've previously removed were pinned (.308 and x39) they seem easier than these. -guido Yeah, the older imports have pinned on blocks. All the 5.45's I have seen, since they are newer, all have the dimpled blocks. I am not sure if some of the 545's are pinned on as well or not. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted May 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 Process finished, more pictures up. Feel free to ask any questions. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Polak 10 Posted May 8, 2010 Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 (edited) Thanks. I'll be attempting this soon since I have all the pieces to do it. Now post pics of the complete gun. Edited May 8, 2010 by Polak 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted May 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 Here you go 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NM0 586 Posted May 8, 2010 Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 Good job on the brake. Your rifle looks great. How did you cut the forearm to compensate for the Ultimax? I'm getting ready to put one on a 5.45 with a surefire forearm. If I end up liking the red dot/ultimax set up I will probably do it to my 7.62 with the factory forearm. I like how clean the factory forearm looks with the ultimax. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted May 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 Good job on the brake. Your rifle looks great. How did you cut the forearm to compensate for the Ultimax? I'm getting ready to put one on a 5.45 with a surefire forearm. If I end up liking the red dot/ultimax set up I will probably do it to my 7.62 with the factory forearm. I like how clean the factory forearm looks with the ultimax. Thanks, me too. I carefully measured it out, and I used a Dremel plastic cutting wheel at ~8,000 RPM. Make sure you wear a mask of some sort when cutting, and go slow as to not get it too hot, that forearm is made of one hell of a fiberglass and it will fling hot globs all over if it gets too hot. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NM0 586 Posted May 8, 2010 Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 You did a good job on the measuring. I was planning on dremmel too (not sure which are plastic cutters yet) with some practice on parts of forearm that would eventually be gone. Was there any reason you went with a straight back on the receiver part other than aesthetics (ie for installation)? I been checking out as many images of ulitmax with diff forearms for research. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Polak 10 Posted May 8, 2010 Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 Do you know if welding on the brake makes it a part of the barrel, and thus not adding any foreign parts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted May 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 You did a good job on the measuring. I was planning on dremmel too (not sure which are plastic cutters yet) with some practice on parts of forearm that would eventually be gone. Was there any reason you went with a straight back on the receiver part other than aesthetics (ie for installation)? I been checking out as many images of ulitmax with diff forearms for research. Thanks. Yeah I went straight back because it's a lot easier to take on and off that way. You can leave it taller at the back but then it makes taking it off and on a lot tricker. Cause then you have to put the forearm on, then the tube, and lose zero every time. All up to you. Do you know if welding on the brake makes it a part of the barrel, and thus not adding any foreign parts? Yeah it becomes part of the barrel and not considered adding a part, from what I have read. It is like how a 14" barrel with threads would be an SBR, but a 14" barrel with a 2.5" long brake welded/pinned on is just considered a 16.5" barrel. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NM0 586 Posted May 9, 2010 Report Share Posted May 9, 2010 Thanks. Yeah I went straight back because it's a lot easier to take on and off that way. You can leave it taller at the back but then it makes taking it off and on a lot tricker. Cause then you have to put the forearm on, then the tube, and lose zero every time. All up to you. Thanks for the info. I was wondering if it was indeed a functional decision. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
regal 2 Posted May 9, 2010 Report Share Posted May 9, 2010 What model FSB did you use and what were the threads? Also was that vertical forearm hard to install ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted May 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2010 (edited) What model FSB did you use and what were the threads? Also was that vertical forearm hard to install ? I used a Bulgarian FSB and Bulgarian Zig Zag brake. K-Var also makes US made versions of these parts. The forearm was pretty easy, I bought a rail kit from CSS. I removed a ~6" section of the spine inside the handguard and used a drive bay from a computer, along with two screws, and two nuts brazed to the plate, to secure the rail. I also used a bit of JB weld for where the rail meets the handguard, and red thread locker on the screws,comes out rock solid. Edited May 10, 2010 by Klassy Kalashnikov 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigsal 757 Posted May 21, 2010 Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 Great thread, the only other member to offer a tutorial was imarangemaster in the 7.62x39 section. This is more thorough, and should be made in to a sticky. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Polak 10 Posted May 21, 2010 Report Share Posted May 21, 2010 Great thread, the only other member to offer a tutorial was imarangemaster in the 7.62x39 section. This is more thorough, and should be made in to a sticky. I'm pretty sure this is a sticky already. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
regal 2 Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 Great thread, the only other member to offer a tutorial was imarangemaster in the 7.62x39 section. This is more thorough, and should be made in to a sticky. I'm pretty sure this is a sticky already. I just don't know about this method, wouldn't you want to drill through the dimples with the proper sized drill bit to give natches in the barrel for the FSB pins? Then you dremel off the FSB, and you would be guaranteed to line up the new FSB because using actual pins they would only go thru where the slots are? Am I nuts thinking this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted June 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 Great thread, the only other member to offer a tutorial was imarangemaster in the 7.62x39 section. This is more thorough, and should be made in to a sticky. I'm pretty sure this is a sticky already. I just don't know about this method, wouldn't you want to drill through the dimples with the proper sized drill bit to give natches in the barrel for the FSB pins? Then you dremel off the FSB, and you would be guaranteed to line up the new FSB because using actual pins they would only go thru where the slots are? Am I nuts thinking this? That too is a valid method as well. On my x39 I am in the process of doing this same mod, and drilled first with a 3mm bit for that one. Basically, "there's more than one way to skin a cat." 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dussandr 76 Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 That too is a valid method as well. On my x39 I am in the process of doing this same mod, and drilled first with a 3mm bit for that one. Basically, "there's more than one way to skin a cat." Ck, What happened? Wasn't your name spelled with a K a few days ago? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted June 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 (edited) That too is a valid method as well. On my x39 I am in the process of doing this same mod, and drilled first with a 3mm bit for that one. Basically, "there's more than one way to skin a cat." Ck, What happened? Wasn't your name spelled with a K a few days ago? Yeah, it was. Decided to change it to a C. It's a long story involving a guy with "not so modern" view of race relations making some accusations. Edited June 18, 2010 by Classy Kalashnikov 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dussandr 76 Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 Yeah, it was. Decided to change it to a C. It's a long story involving a guy with "not so modern" view of race relations making some accusations. I suspected something along those lines..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
C.W.M.V. 3 Posted June 28, 2010 Report Share Posted June 28, 2010 When you have pounded the nails through the holes in the bottom of the FSB, do you have to "smash" the ends of the nail or can you just cut it off flush to the sight block? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L5K 162 Posted June 29, 2010 Report Share Posted June 29, 2010 You can just cut it off flush. The pins the Soviets/Russians used were not smashed on the ends, they were just flush. I always just use roll pins in mine. If the pins have to be pressed or hammered into the holes, they will have to be pressed or hammered back out. If you combine the actual friction you should have from the tight fit of the sight block on the barrel, with the two pins, there is really no way it is going to move without some serious torque being applied which would probably damage the barrel anyway. You could smash the ends of the pins if you wanted though, can't see what it would hurt at all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
man-at-arms 2 Posted July 3, 2010 Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 (edited) Klassy- I was considering moving the FSB back on my Bulgarian rifle, then permanently pinning it and the comp to a total of 16.75 or so. My concern was the expansion chamber on the comp; even if I shot non-corrosive that would be a space that I really couldn't get at to clean. Since I plan to shoot surplus, and to shoot water down the barrel, it seems like a no-go for me. Did you have any concerns about this? Am I right to think this is such a big deal guys? BTW thanks for posting this! Edited July 3, 2010 by man-at-arms Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L5K 162 Posted July 3, 2010 Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 Klassy- I was considering moving the FSB back on my Bulgarian rifle, then permanently pinning it and the comp to a total of 16.75 or so. My concern was the expansion chamber on the comp; even if I shot non-corrosive that would be a space that I really couldn't get at to clean. Since I plan to shoot surplus, and to shoot water down the barrel, it seems like a no-go for me. Did you have any concerns about this? Am I right to think this is such a big deal guys? BTW thanks for posting this! I really don't know if it would be that big of a deal really. If you get a military muzzle brake, or one from K-var (watch out for the price) they are chrome lined. I do however, always remove mine when I clean my rifle just to be sure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted July 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2010 I don't have a problem keeping rust out of mine with corrosive ammo. It's kind of a pain in the ass, and takes a little more effort since mine cannot unscrew, but it does keep clean. Just takes a little more effort and concentrated spraying if it is permanently attached. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
man-at-arms 2 Posted July 4, 2010 Report Share Posted July 4, 2010 I don't have a problem keeping rust out of mine with corrosive ammo. It's kind of a pain in the ass, and takes a little more effort since mine cannot unscrew, but it does keep clean. Just takes a little more effort and concentrated spraying if it is permanently attached. How do you know it's not rusting like crazy inside the expansion chamber? Do you shoot surplus ammo? Could you give me any tips on how to clean mine if I have it permanently installed? Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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