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Gotta have a Krinkov in 5.45


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Well just to give a little history, this is my first AK build and I must say it was a lot easier than I thought it would be. That said I did a lot of research and got help and guidance from Keith at T

How much did you pay for the Izzy kit if you dont mind me asking?

No worries, paid $450.00 like all the other guppies. Rguns has everyone by the balls if you want a matching numbers Tula or Izzy kit. Word is they have some 83 Izzys with laminate for sale they just a

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lucky dog! Wish I could afford a few! Loner when i get some money i will be giving you a yell

 

You won't be disappointed in Chucks work or speedy service. I am waiting for one of the big name builders to get off his ass and mail me my NDS receiver, once I found out it would take him until early next year to put Russian markings in my receiver I asked him to send it back, that was about two weeks ago and I am still waiting. It took Chuck less time to receive my barrel do the work and send it back..

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Got the barrel back yesterday and Chuck does fantastic work. Picked up an 88 izzy kit so I will be sending chuck another barrel real soon!

How much did you pay for the Izzy kit if you dont mind me asking?

 

 

No worries, paid $450.00 like all the other guppies. Rguns has everyone by the balls if you want a matching numbers Tula or Izzy kit. Word is they have some 83 Izzys with laminate for sale they just aren't advertising them. Those go for $650 which isn't a bad deal if you figure what a good set of laminates goes for these days. You know the Russians are laughing their asses off, only capitalist would spend $650.00 for a gun with no barrel or receiver!

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...

only capitalist would spend $650.00 for a gun with no barrel or receiver!

 

LOLOLOLOLOL! Bear crush Eagle. Dosvedanya Umerikansky!

 

 

I was in a gunshop once and the guy at the counter was talking about a Krink. He held up a reciever and said "this is what a Krink is good for." It looked like something allot bigger than a 5.45 blew up in it, but the unidentifiable twisted piece of metal was actually a reciever at once I assume.

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Got the barrel back yesterday and Chuck does fantastic work. Picked up an 88 izzy kit so I will be sending chuck another barrel real soon!

How much did you pay for the Izzy kit if you dont mind me asking?

 

 

No worries, paid $450.00 like all the other guppies. Rguns has everyone by the balls if you want a matching numbers Tula or Izzy kit. Word is they have some 83 Izzys with laminate for sale they just aren't advertising them. Those go for $650 which isn't a bad deal if you figure what a good set of laminates goes for these days. You know the Russians are laughing their asses off, only capitalist would spend $650.00 for a gun with no barrel or receiver!

The russians are not the only ones laughing bro! I was hoping you had a cheaper source than rguns. I mean $200 for a parts kit seems like its more fair. $450 is just an ass-rape IMHO! But still I have thought about pilling the trigger on an izzy myself....

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Yeah If I was to do it again I would buy the 83 Izzy kit, the 88s are all dimpled on the GB, FSB, and RSB. It just things much more difficult to home build. There are a lot of $200-$250 kits out there they just won't have matching numbers, this may not be important to you, it was for me.

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Yeah If I was to do it again I would buy the 83 Izzy kit, the 88s are all dimpled on the GB, FSB, and RSB. It just things much more difficult to home build. There are a lot of $200-$250 kits out there they just won't have matching numbers, this may not be important to you, it was for me.

No, that is important to me as well bro. Thats why I didn't pick up any of the Tula's Atlantic and Copes have. I am hoping someday soon we will see matching izzy kits at the lower price point... but that might be a fantasy...

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I should start the build mid next week since Mario is sending back my engraved receiver; in the end he came through. I will post picks as I rivet the krink together. I may take the gun over to my buddy who is an SOT and press the barrel in and test fire it before we park and paint it. Hopefully the tax stamp will hit the mail real soon.

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Try to take lots of pics of the build Wade. No

one has so far on any of the forums that I know of. And most important is of course " a range report on the accuracy of a cut down E.German barrel."

 

Just don't expect any tight groups @ 300 yds. :beer:

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It was stated earlier that one didn't have to worry about 922r if the item in question was a SBR. I thought I would bring this letter to everyone's attention. I think it's bullshit, but as far as I know this is the latest opinion letter on the issue. I gave a bulgy krink kit and an virgin M92 kit to build, so please share any new info that you guys might have. I really don't want any US parts on my builds, I'll wait for a new opinion to be issued if I have to.

 

atf922rnfa.jpg

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It was stated earlier that one didn't have to worry about 922r if the item in question was a SBR. I thought I would bring this letter to everyone's attention. I think it's bullshit, but as far as I know this is the latest opinion letter on the issue. I gave a bulgy krink kit and an virgin M92 kit to build, so please share any new info that you guys might have. I really don't want any US parts on my builds, I'll wait for a new opinion to be issued if I have to.

 

atf922rnfa.jpg

 

Well I have seen an ATF letter posted on another forum that stated the exact opposite. I think ATF agents are like most cops when it comes to their knowledge of the law, unfortunately it is real hard to get a definitive decision either way. Thanks for posting the letter.

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Well I have seen an ATF letter posted on another forum that stated the exact opposite. I think ATF agents are like most cops when it comes to their knowledge of the law, unfortunately it is real hard to get a definitive decision either way. Thanks for posting the letter.

 

I think their interpretation of the law has more to do with politics than anything else. There is a letter with the opposite advice, but I think it's older.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here's a few pics on the latest 2 projects. First one is an AK105 barrel assembly from Kvar that the member wanted to replace the Bulg. FSB combo with an original mint cond. unissued Russian unit. He requested that the barrel protrude past the face of the FSB per a picture he sent me of a Russian 105 barrel, and that the barrel be recrowned to the same configuration as the Russian barrel and the gas tube fit without having to be modified.

In order to accomplish this the barrel had to be shortened .125, and the gas port moved .166 to the rear.

 

Here are some pics of the finished assembly.......................

 

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This is showing the differences of the 2 FSBs with the Russian installed and the Bulg. in the foreground.

 

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This second set is a Bulgy Krink barrel that the member bought and wanted the Bulg. FSB that had been bubba'd by someone who had unsuccesfully attempted to blind pin it to the barrel removed and replaced with a Russian Krink FSB Combo unit. The barrel had to be shortened .100 and recrowned . The gas port still lined up with the new FSB when installed. Both of these barrels had to be stripped of the RSB and R hinge block in order to get them up inside the spindle to do the lathe work needed and then reinstalled . Included a few pics of the bubba'd FSB.

Enjoy...................................

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well just to give a little history, this is my first AK build and I must say it was a lot easier than I thought it would be. That said I did a lot of research and got help and guidance from Keith at Tac47.

 

There were only two real issues I ran into when building my Tula krink. The first issue was with the Nodak NSD-2SF receiver, the front trunnion holes didn't line up with the receiver so like others on this board I had to egg out or enlarge the holes. I enlarged the holes by mounting the front trunnion in a jig on my drill press vise and finding the center of the holes with an end mill. Once I found the center I then slid the receiver into the jig over the front trunnion and milled out the holes with the end mill. I used an end mill because it is less likely to bend or walk into the existing hole like a drill bit would. It worked great, although when I dimpled the receiver the egged out holes made it difficult to get a nice and concentric dimple since there was more material on one side of the hole than the other. Below are two pictures of the front rivets.

img0820o.jpg

 

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Next big issue, the K-Var rivets have a lot to be desired! I used the AK-Builder rivets on the front trunnion and was very pleased, I also used the AK-Builder long rivet for the back trunnion and it was by far the best rivet in the back. As for the K-Var rivets...I used them in the back because they are already flattened like the factory rivets on any Bulgarian or Russian krink so I thought I would save time and effort while getting the original look. Originally I had planned on using the AK-Builder rivets on the back and flatten them as MoonDoggy showed on his video but I saw another build that used the K-Var rivets and I thought I would give it a go. :doh: Even before I pressed them in I noticed that the shoulders were not concentric but that wasn't enough of a red flag to stop me so in they went. Well the rivet shoulders not being concentric doesn't allow the rivet to sit parallel with the receiver. I tried to go back with a flat anvil and square them up with the receiver and had some degree of success but they will never be perfect. I got them a little more parallel with a metal file but that is almost cheating. :smile: Like I said earlier, I used the long AK-Builder rivet in the back, doomed it and then took a flat anvil per MoonDoggy and flattened it out perfectly. Live and learn. The trigger guard went in with no problems and the mag lock up is very nice, I read where others had to do some fitting and filling but mine went in with out a hitch.

img0821z.jpg

 

img0819vh.jpg

 

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So receiver built, I had to find a barrel and we all know the Tula barrels are non-existent and on the off chance you can find a Bulgy krink barrel they want a fortune for it and three people have posted they will take it before you have even seen the listing! Everything about the US barrels scared me, I have yet to see the US barrel manufactures make a decent AK barrel and I didn't have much faith that the RGun barrels would be any different. I choose to go the East German barrel route and hoped that the 1:8 barrel twist would not be a problem. I sent my barrel off to Chuck aka: loner42 after talking to him at great length and seeing other work he had done. For those of you who don't know his work is top notch and you don't have to be a machinist to appreciate the little details that set his work apart from the rest. Chuck turned all the journals, shortened the barrel to the appropriate Tula krink length which is a different length and profile compared to the Bulgy krink barrel, pinned the FSB, RSB, and barrel, cut the hand guard retainer grooves and head spaced the barrel. Turn key just get the barrel back and press it into the receiver...with the appropriate government approval of course! Below is a picture of the work he did. Below are a few images of the barrel work he did.

 

011ze.jpg

 

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012ijm.jpg

 

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So off to the range for some krink testing! I had very high expectations because I shoot my friend Tx-Zen's Bulgy krink quite regularly and we are able to hit a man sized steel torso at 300yds without much problem. Out at the impactzone where we shoot they don't really have a 50yd range to hang paper targets and get a zero, most of the bays are dedicated pistol areas with steel targets so the best we could do was zeroing in at about 30yds. Below is a picture of the first three rounds to ever leave my krink. Needless to say I was grinning from ear to ear, those are 1" grinds on that target and you could have covered up all there of holes with a nickel.

 

beard001.jpg

 

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Should have stopped there, never shot a group that tight the rest of the day! Once we adjusted windage and elevation we headed over to the 100-300yd range to shoot at steel. Bench resting the krink or standing and shooting freehand at 100yds was a guaranteed hit every time on the steel torso, we also have two small pieces of steel that are a 5"x8" square and a diamond of the same dimension. Hitting those bench rested was also a guaranteed hit; standing freehanded was about 50% hit ratio. Out to 200yds, again bench resting was a guaranteed hit on the steel torso and the small targets were being hit about 60% of the time. I hit the torso freehand numerous times but couldn't even see the small targets with irons. On to 300yds, the first 5-6 shots were missing until we discovered that I was shooting low at six o'clock, aimed for the head and dropped in 6-7 hits in a row to finish off the mag.

 

Of course all of this is anecdotal without hanging paper at 100, 200, 300 yds but I am convinced that the 1:8 EG barrels are plenty accurate as krink barrels.

 

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Edited by NinerRider
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Well just to give a little history, this is my first AK build and I must say it was a lot easier than I thought it would be. That said I did a lot of research and got help and guidance from Keith at Tac47.

 

There were only two real issues I ran into when building my Tula krink. The first issue was with the Nodak NSD-2SF receiver, the front trunnion holes didn't line up with the receiver so like others on this board I had to egg out or enlarge the holes. I enlarged the holes by mounting the front trunnion in a jig on my drill press vise and finding the center of the holes with an end mill. Once I found the center I then slid the receiver into the jig over the front trunnion and milled out the holes with the end mill. I used an end mill because it is less likely to bend or walk into the existing hole like a drill bit would. It worked great, although when I dimpled the receiver the egged out holes made it difficult to get a nice and concentric dimple since there was more material on one side of the hole than the other. Below are two pictures of the front rivets.

img0820o.jpg

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

img0822q.jpg

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

Next big issue, the K-Var rivets have a lot to be desired! I used the AK-Builder rivets on the front trunnion and was very pleased, I also used the AK-Builder long rivet for the back trunnion and it was by far the best rivet in the back. As for the K-Var rivets...I used them in the back because they are already flattened like the factory rivets on any Bulgarian or Russian krink so I thought I would save time and effort while getting the original look. Originally I had planned on using the AK-Builder rivets on the back and flatten them as MoonDoggy showed on his video but I saw another build that used the K-Var rivets and I thought I would give it a go. :doh: Even before I pressed them in I noticed that the shoulders were not concentric but that wasn't enough of a red flag to stop me so in they went. Well the rivet shoulders not being concentric doesn't allow the rivet to sit parallel with the receiver. I tried to go back with a flat anvil and square them up with the receiver and had some degree of success but they will never be perfect. I got them a little more parallel with a metal file but that is almost cheating. :smile: Like I said earlier, I used the long AK-Builder rivet in the back, doomed it and then took a flat anvil per MoonDoggy and flattened it out perfectly. Live and learn. The trigger guard went in with no problems and the mag lock up is very nice, I read where others had to do some fitting and filling but mine went in with out a hitch.

img0821z.jpg

 

img0819vh.jpg

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

So receiver built, I had to find a barrel and we all know the Tula barrels are non-existent and on the off chance you can find a Bulgy krink barrel they want a fortune for it and three people have posted they will take it before you have even seen the listing! Everything about the US barrels scared me, I have yet to see the US barrel manufactures make a decent AK barrel and I didn't have much faith that the RGun barrels would be any different. I choose to go the East German barrel route and hoped that the 1:8 barrel twist would not be a problem. I sent my barrel off to Chuck aka: loner42 after talking to him at great length and seeing other work he had done. For those of you who don't know his work is top notch and you don't have to be a machinist to appreciate the little details that set his work apart from the rest. Chuck turned all the journals, shortened the barrel to the appropriate Tula krink length which is a different length and profile compared to the Bulgy krink barrel, pinned the FSB, RSB, and barrel, cut the hand guard retainer grooves and head spaced the barrel. Turn key just get the barrel back and press it into the receiver...with the appropriate government approval of course! Below is a picture of the work he did. Below are a few images of the barrel work he did.

 

011ze.jpg

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

012ijm.jpg

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

So off to the range for some krink testing! I had very high expectations because I shoot my friend Tx-Zen's Bulgy krink quite regularly and we are able to hit a man sized steel torso at 300yds without much problem. Out at the impactzone where we shoot they don't really have a 50yd range to hang paper targets and get a zero, most of the bays are dedicated pistol areas with steel targets so the best we could do was zeroing in at about 30yds. Below is a picture of the first three rounds to ever leave my krink. Needless to say I was grinning from ear to ear, those are 1" grinds on that target and you could have covered up all there of holes with a nickel.

 

beard001.jpg

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

Should have stopped there, never shot a group that tight the rest of the day! Once we adjusted windage and elevation we headed over to the 100-300yd range to shoot at steel. Bench resting the krink or standing and shooting freehand at 100yds was a guaranteed hit every time on the steel torso, we also have two small pieces of steel that are a 5"x8" square and a diamond of the same dimension. Hitting those bench rested was also a guaranteed hit; standing freehanded was about 50% hit ratio. Out to 200yds, again bench resting was a guaranteed hit on the steel torso and the small targets were being hit about 60% of the time. I hit the torso freehand numerous times but couldn't even see the small targets with irons. On to 300yds, the first 5-6 shots were missing until we discovered that I was shooting low at six o'clock, aimed for the head and dropped in 6-7 hits in a row to finish off the mag.

 

Of course all of this is anecdotal without hanging paper at 100, 200, 300 yds but I am convinced that the 1:8 EG barrels are plenty accurate as krink barrels.

 

img0818e.jpg

 

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img0823n.jpg

 

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+1 for Nice Work!

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What's the RoT on those krink barrels? And, can you make me one? :angel:
Sorry don't follow on RoT?
Rate of Twist? beats me. never heard RoT myself....

 

Yes, I meant Rate of Twist. I've heard it called RoT before, even on here D:

 

Well if RoT is rate of twist then the ratio for the EG barrels is 1:8 as opposed to the 1:6.3.

 

Ahh, I see. I'm looking for the 1:6.3, but I don't know where to begin.

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What's the RoT on those krink barrels? And, can you make me one? :angel:
Sorry don't follow on RoT?
Rate of Twist? beats me. never heard RoT myself....

 

Yes, I meant Rate of Twist. I've heard it called RoT before, even on here D:

 

Well if RoT is rate of twist then the ratio for the EG barrels is 1:8 as opposed to the 1:6.3.

 

Ahh, I see. I'm looking for the 1:6.3, but I don't know where to begin.

 

 

There is a guy selling them on gun broker and the ak forum for $165, you may me disappointed in the fit and performance of these American made barrels.. Chuck has a lot of information on those barrel shortcomings, word is there is a new batch coming out in a few weeks that will fix some of the problems on the barrels he is dumping. Went to the range again today and got the krink on paper at a 100yds, it was grouping at 2 inches but I think if I bench rested it in a vise that number would improve. Hit the steel torso at 200yds freehand four or five times in a row, that just puts a smile on your face. Next time out I will get the balls to try and freehand at 300. On another note we took our new Hk/Walter/Umarex .22lr rifles out and shot lights out. We shot the five inch steel at 300 regularly once we got the elevation sorted out....granted it was just below the bottom mil dot our scopes so the bullet drop was huge. Lot a fun though and you don't mind shooting a thousand rounds of 22.

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What's the RoT on those krink barrels? And, can you make me one? :angel:
Sorry don't follow on RoT?
Rate of Twist? beats me. never heard RoT myself....

 

Yes, I meant Rate of Twist. I've heard it called RoT before, even on here D:

 

Well if RoT is rate of twist then the ratio for the EG barrels is 1:8 as opposed to the 1:6.3.

 

Ahh, I see. I'm looking for the 1:6.3, but I don't know where to begin.

 

 

There is a guy selling them on gun broker and the ak forum for $165, you may me disappointed in the fit and performance of these American made barrels.. Chuck has a lot of information on those barrel shortcomings, word is there is a new batch coming out in a few weeks that will fix some of the problems on the barrels he is dumping. Went to the range again today and got the krink on paper at a 100yds, it was grouping at 2 inches but I think if I bench rested it in a vise that number would improve. Hit the steel torso at 200yds freehand four or five times in a row, that just puts a smile on your face. Next time out I will get the balls to try and freehand at 300. On another note we took our new Hk/Walter/Umarex .22lr rifles out and shot lights out. We shot the five inch steel at 300 regularly once we got the elevation sorted out....granted it was just below the bottom mil dot our scopes so the bullet drop was huge. Lot a fun though and you don't mind shooting a thousand rounds of 22.

 

I was looking to stay away from American barrels anyway, unless someone I knew could fabricate an amazing specimen, but I don't know anyone like that and lack the tools to do it myself. I've been doing a lot of searching, but nothing else seems to come up. I guess most folks really just chop standard barrels and leave it at that.

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What's the RoT on those krink barrels? And, can you make me one? :angel:
Sorry don't follow on RoT?
Rate of Twist? beats me. never heard RoT myself....

 

Yes, I meant Rate of Twist. I've heard it called RoT before, even on here D:

 

Well if RoT is rate of twist then the ratio for the EG barrels is 1:8 as opposed to the 1:6.3.

 

Ahh, I see. I'm looking for the 1:6.3, but I don't know where to begin.

 

 

Well three options, chop a barrel, buy an American barrel, or keep on the lookout for a Bulgarian barrel. Bulgy barrels in the past are getting $280-$300 so that is pretty pricey for a barrel with the wrong profile. Hopefully the American barrels will be beet err in the future.

 

 

There is a guy selling them on gun broker and the ak forum for $165, you may me disappointed in the fit and performance of these American made barrels.. Chuck has a lot of information on those barrel shortcomings, word is there is a new batch coming out in a few weeks that will fix some of the problems on the barrels he is dumping. Went to the range again today and got the krink on paper at a 100yds, it was grouping at 2 inches but I think if I bench rested it in a vise that number would improve. Hit the steel torso at 200yds freehand four or five times in a row, that just puts a smile on your face. Next time out I will get the balls to try and freehand at 300. On another note we took our new Hk/Walter/Umarex .22lr rifles out and shot lights out. We shot the five inch steel at 300 regularly once we got the elevation sorted out....granted it was just below the bottom mil dot our scopes so the bullet drop was huge. Lot a fun though and you don't mind shooting a thousand rounds of 22.

 

I was looking to stay away from American barrels anyway, unless someone I knew could fabricate an amazing specimen, but I don't know anyone like that and lack the tools to do it myself. I've been doing a lot of searching, but nothing else seems to come up. I guess most folks really just chop standard barrels and leave it at that.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well got the guns back from being parkerized and was less than happy with the park job. My guess is that the park guy wasn't aggresive enough when he media blasted the parts becuase the NDS receiver was kind of greenish and everything else was nice and black. The SLR-107 was a lot better so maybe the Russian receivers are made of a bit softer metal. Everything is getting painted so what am I bitching about right!

 

Real impressd with GunKote! Once you preheat the parts it is virtually impossible to get runs. That said, if you heat the parts to hot it realy makes the paint flash dry and you get this rough texture that feels more like park and less like paint. The receiver on the Tula came out this way and I was perfectly happy witht the finish until I sprayed the SLR-107. Shit, next time I spray another gun I will break down the Tula and re-spray the the receiver, knowing my personallyity that won't happen so it may get torn down next weekend and fixed before I lose anymore sleep.

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SLR-107

 

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Edited by NinerRider
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