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Wade Pruetz

Gotta have a Krinkov in 5.45

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Guys 16" barrels have a twist rate ratio of 1:8, krinks need a ratio of 1:6 to stabilize the bullet. Cutting down a 16" barrel will work but accuracy will suffer not to mention fragmentation of the bullet. Best bet is to find a krink barrel which is big money or hope that RGuns new barrels will be quality and designed on krink specs.

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he's right about the barrel twist, if you're never gonna SBR it (like if you live in cali) then the normal 74 twist rate is your thing... if you are and won't ever shoot heavier bullets, then the reg 74 twist is ok too actually, but if you're gonna use a krink like a krink... well then why not spend the extra coin on the proper twist rate...

 

and 5.45 doesn't fragment... thats why its so great in the krink... acts the same 8" or 16"... just less energy to it...

Edited by vladimir zagumennyy

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This might be a stupid question, but... even if you roll your own SBR from a parts kit, you have to pay for the $200 stamp, right? And you'd have to have a separate stamp for each NFA gun in your possession?

 

I have no exotics... yet... but an AKS-74U has me considering it...

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This might be a stupid question, but... even if you roll your own SBR from a parts kit, you have to pay for the $200 stamp, right? And you'd have to have a separate stamp for each NFA gun in your possession?

 

I have no exotics... yet... but an AKS-74U has me considering it...

 

 

Yes, you'll have to pay even if you build it yourself. It's a form 1 if you're the manufacturer, a form 4 if you buy one that someone else built.

 

My 5.45 was a parts kit with the 8" barrel and when it was assembled I had to do a form 1 even though I didn't personally build it. My SLR017UR was a factory gun with a 16" barrel and when I had it cut down I did a form 1 for it too. I was considered the manufacturer of entirely new NFA rifles both times because neither were previously registered with anyone.

 

It takes a tax stamp to create a new NFA rifle (this is the form 1) and then it takes a form 4 (and another tax stamp) to transfer the NFA to a new owner.

 

 

Z

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Thanks TX-Zen. Another question (I'm full of 'em)... if I bend the flat myself, would I be using the trunnion number as the registration number on Form 1? Or am I required by law to engrave a serial on the receiver like other US manufacturers?

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Thanks TX-Zen. Another question (I'm full of 'em)... if I bend the flat myself, would I be using the trunnion number as the registration number on Form 1? Or am I required by law to engrave a serial on the receiver like other US manufacturers?

I can't say for sure but I would think you would need a serial number on the receiver since it is actually considered "the" gun; the rest of it is just parts attached to the gun. Just as you can buy any and every part of a gun (except receiver) and have it shipped straight to your door (think parts kit), but if you order a NoDak (for example) receiver it must go through an FFL.

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Thanks TX-Zen. Another question (I'm full of 'em)... if I bend the flat myself, would I be using the trunnion number as the registration number on Form 1? Or am I required by law to engrave a serial on the receiver like other US manufacturers?

 

Yep, you'd have to mark the receiver with a SN just like other US manufacturers. You could use whatever you want as you are making it from scratch. Most folks building a SBR from a registered gun/receiver just use the same serial number that was on the receiver to begin with so they don't have to mark it with another SN (but you'd still need to engrave your name and location).

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he's right about the barrel twist, if you're never gonna SBR it (like if you live in cali) then the normal 74 twist rate is your thing... if you are and won't ever shoot heavier bullets, then the reg 74 twist is ok too actually, but if you're gonna use a krink like a krink... well then why not spend the extra coin on the proper twist rate...

 

and 5.45 doesn't fragment... thats why its so great in the krink... acts the same 8" or 16"... just less energy to it...

 

I was more thinking about what you said earlier in the thread

build a krink and pin a fake can on it that could be removed later without too much hassle

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Guys 16" barrels have a twist rate ratio of 1:8, krinks need a ratio of 1:6 to stabilize the bullet. Cutting down a 16" barrel will work but accuracy will suffer not to mention fragmentation of the bullet. Best bet is to find a krink barrel which is big money or hope that RGuns new barrels will be quality and designed on krink specs.

 

Could you post a link or copy & paste where you got this info ?

 

Thanks.................

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you are going to pay more than $130 for a virgin bulg krinkov barrel you may get a 16 inch cut domn for that much but not an orignal krinkov barrel one on GB just went for $400.

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Guys 16" barrels have a twist rate ratio of 1:8, krinks need a ratio of 1:6 to stabilize the bullet. Cutting down a 16" barrel will work but accuracy will suffer not to mention fragmentation of the bullet. Best bet is to find a krink barrel which is big money or hope that RGuns new barrels will be quality and designed on krink specs.

 

Could you post a link or copy & paste where you got this info ?

 

Thanks.................

 

its from theakforum.net they have a thread about these kits over there.

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I'm kinda disappointed that no one has mentioned my select fire Krink here, I know eveyone at the shoots sure grabs it and runs a few mags...............

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I'm kinda disappointed that no one has mentioned my select fire Krink here, I know eveyone at the shoots sure grabs it and runs a few mags...............

 

Pics or it didn't happen!! Nah, I don't need pictures of others shooting it, but I would like to see a few photos of it.

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Im doing E.German and Bulgy barrel modifying for those who are considering using them.

 

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68338

 

 

Loner42,

Have you cut down any krink barrels yet? I am interested in how accuracy is affected with the 8" barrel and 1:8 twist ratio. Rguns may take a while to get these barrels so I would be interested in other options. I have seen E.German virgin barrels for about $100. lately so this would be a cheap way to go.

Thanks

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Im doing E.German and Bulgy barrel modifying for those who are considering using them.

 

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68338

 

 

Loner42,

Have you cut down any krink barrels yet? I am interested in how accuracy is affected with the 8" barrel and 1:8 twist ratio. Rguns may take a while to get these barrels so I would be interested in other options. I have seen E.German virgin barrels for about $100. lately so this would be a cheap way to go.

Thanks

 

 

 

No not yet, but I'm gettin ready to go out and start choppin 6 Bulgy 74 pulled barrels that are like new for a member on THE AK FILES. I'd still like to see where all this twist rate info is coming from. I'm an active member on the AKForum and have'nt seen any threads that actually "document" the twist rates. There's been lots of speculation on several forums ,but that's all it is IMHO. The cleaning rod method is not what I would consider as accurate .

So somebody hurry up and finish a build with a 8 5/16 E.German or Bulgy barrel and get us a range report. I'd like to know as much as anybody.

Edited by loner42

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Well not that Wiki is gospel but....this is taken off their AKS-74 page.

 

The rifle's compact dimensions (AKS-74u), compared to the AKS-74, were achieved by using a short 210 mm (8.3 in) barrel (this forced designers to simultaneously reduce the gas piston operating rod to an appropriate length). In order to effectively stabilize projectiles, the barrel’s twist rate was increased from 200 mm (1:8 in) to 160 mm (1:6.3 in).

 

This makes sense since ARs use anywhere from 1:7-1:9 to stabilize 5.56 which is basically the same bullet as the 5.45. The 1:7 has gained a lot of popularity lately because it will stabilize the heavier grain bullets and thus improve accuracy of the 5.56 platform. Most ARs are a standard 1:9 which is just fine for the 55 grain bullets but they don't do so well with the heavier grain bullets. To me the Russians splitting the difference and going with a 16" barrel with a twist rate of 1:8 seems logical since most military 5.45 rounds are 53 grains. Please post pics of your krink barrels, I am really interested to see how they come out.

Thanks

Edited by NinerRider

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Thanks NinerRider, I will get some pics over the weekend of the Bulgy 74 barrels cut and contoured to Krink dimensions and post them. I'm also going to cut one of the barrel pieces that I cut off the Bulgys in half lengthways which will reveal the inside of the barrels twist rate. Only problem is that they are only about 7 1/2- 7 3/4 long as I cut the Bulgys 8 1/2 to allow for a finished recrowned 8 5/16 length, so not sure if I'll be able to get a full turn. We'll see..............

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Thanks NinerRider, I will get some pics over the weekend of the Bulgy 74 barrels cut and contoured to Krink dimensions and post them. I'm also going to cut one of the barrel pieces that I cut off the Bulgys in half lengthways which will reveal the inside of the barrels twist rate. Only problem is that they are only about 7 1/2- 7 3/4 long as I cut the Bulgys 8 1/2 to allow for a finished recrowned 8 5/16 length, so not sure if I'll be able to get a full turn. We'll see..............

 

 

Cutting the barrel in half is a good idea, you should get a pretty good idea what the twist rate is.

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PRK Arms in Cali sells fully assembled cali compliant krinks for under $800, with a single shot sled and BB installed for DROS, then after DROS you bring it back to them and they will convert it to semi-auto for you, legally....cali has strange laws, once DROS is finished as a single shot pistol, no law prohibits you from making it semi auto again....

Edited by icefire

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Well I will have to see it to believe it. Even 7.62 and 5.56 krinks don't sell anywhere for less $1500.00, don't see how Cali turns them out for less than the rest of the country. What is DROS? I know what DRO is, maybe they are growing krinks in those fancy grow houses out in Cali. :lolol:

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Here's an update from today....................

 

Started on the Bulgy 74 barrels today and these 6 will be Krink length. Got the first one done and am going to do a mockup with my parts kit to make sure everything is in the right location before doing the others.

So, here's some pics of todays progress:

 

The barrels as sawed to 8.5

 

1001605i.jpg

 

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barrel rough turned in the lathe

 

1001624f.jpg

 

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Stock Bulgy 74 barrel on top

Sawed to 8.5

Lathe work finished

 

1001627q.jpg

 

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1001629f.jpg

 

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1001633.jpg

 

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After gas hole drilled , HG retainer groove cut, and muzzle recrowned

 

1001632n.jpg

 

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1001636n.jpg

 

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1001637l.jpg

 

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Will post some more as it progresses........................

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Thanks TX-Zen. Another question (I'm full of 'em)... if I bend the flat myself, would I be using the trunnion number as the registration number on Form 1? Or am I required by law to engrave a serial on the receiver like other US manufacturers?

I can't say for sure but I would think you would need a serial number on the receiver since it is actually considered "the" gun; the rest of it is just parts attached to the gun. Just as you can buy any and every part of a gun (except receiver) and have it shipped straight to your door (think parts kit), but if you order a NoDak (for example) receiver it must go through an FFL.

 

You have to engrave your NFA info on it anyway so if you use a flat, engrave the kits trunnion number on the bent flat. If you use a NoDak or any other 100% that is sent to your FFL you have to use the number that is on it on the form 1

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Finished the mockup today with the Bulgy 74 barrel from Copes. Everything turned out to be in the right location and you can see what you are left with. An empty RSB groove, and the original barrel pin groove which will in most cases require an oversized pin.

Will post some more pics when the other 6 barrels are finished.

 

1001638f.jpg

 

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1001639c.jpg

 

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Looking real nice! Did you find anything out about the twist rate on those barrels? You were taliking about spliting one down the middle for a little R&D. I am picking up a 16" Bulgy barrel real soon we may need to talk. Can't wait for the range report.

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Nope, nothin new on the twist rate . Have'nt split the barrel piece yet. As I stated in the last post , that was just a mockup to see if everything was in the right location and they were. Shortly after the pics, I stripped it back down to use as a pattern , (or gage) for the other 6 which I will finish tomorrow and ship to the owner.

More pics soon.

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