How to install Gas Block, FSB, and HG retainer?

[Kilryth 0]

I haven't found too many posts on precisely installing the gas block and standard HG retainer. How do you install your gas block, FSB, and HG retainer? I don't have a press, and I don't have room for one in my apartment.

 

I cut off the gas block & FSB, and the rifle has the side grooves for the HG retainer. It does not have the groove for the locking lever on the retainer. I plan on pressing the locking lever down hard several times to scratch the barrel for filing (with a dremel). If there's a better way, I'd like to know it. I haven't tried fitting the gas block yet, and I don't know of a good way to install it without damaging the part. How do you install the gas block without damaging it? It appears that I can line up the hole in the bottom with the black mark from the old hole's black mark on the barrel. I plan on using a wooden block to hammer on the FSB.

[L5K 162]

I always use aluminum pieces that I made for hammering the fsb and gas block down. They are made of a piece of solid aluminum bar, and I bored a hole in the center that will slip over the barrel but catches on the fsb and gas block. Depending on the sight block you are installing, it may be easier. As with some sight blocks they are "collared" and extend all the way to the end of the barrel, so you can just use a piece of aluminum or brass to hammer on and just get them flush. I align them by getting the rifle level in a vise with a laser boresighter aimed across the room. Then I put a laser level at the point where the boresighter is pointed and use the level vertical line from this to match up the boresighter, the bore, the chamber, the rear sight leaf, and tweak the gas block and fsb in with a pipe wrench or crescent wrench to match this line too. It takes a while but it gets perfect results. Then I just drill the pins and holes out to 1/8th inch and put in 1/8th inch pins in it. To make everything easier on yourself you should definitely get some emery paper, and polish up the inside of the gas block and sight block where they are going onto the barrel, and polish the sections of the barrel that they will go over too, and apply some anti-seize compound to them as well. As for the retainer, make sure you get it laid out absolutely perfect where it needs to be before you do anything. I used a hacksaw to make a tiny groove where it was supposed to be, then used a rat tail file to cut the rounded indention in the barrel by hand. This eliminates problems you may run into with a dremel such as it running away from you, or accidentally going too far.

 

Every time I do something like this to one of my rifles, I always swear that I'll never do it again.....and lo and behold I have this down to a science now and it's still a pain in the ass to do sometimes. Just be patient, and if you run into trouble, take a break. Don't work on it while you are frustrated or you'll regret it.

[Kilryth 0]

Wow, now that sounds professional! Thank you very much! I am definitely going to take your advice on this one!! Now I just need to find a metal shop.. I will heed your advice on the file over the dremel. I assume that a rounded pen-file would be appropriate, rather than a square file?

[Kilryth 0]

Any suggestions on how to support the receiver/trunnion/barrel while hammering the parts on? I have a horizontal vice attached to a hard plastic workbench that is too flimsy for sledge hammering, and a concrete patio. Apartments suck. I was thinking about installing an old buttstock that I don't care about, and holding the butt to the concrete. I'm not sure how difficult it will be to remove the buttstock afterward though, haha.

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

Good advice above. Use a metal that is softer then steel. Brass or aluminum will work well. Get a round file like those used to sharpen chainsaws. Use your concrete patio or concrete slab floor (hopefully ground floor) with a 2x4 block (or similar) on the floor, square end of receiver on block. You can buy large brass punches pretty cheap at places like Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, etc.

When you make the notch on top of the barrel, make sure you get it back far enough that it's tight against the HG when you lock the cam in place. It's easier to take a hair off the HG if necessary, than to add material if it's loose. Nobody likes a loose HG.

Good luck and have fun.

 

[Kilryth 0]

Good advice as always! The internet is a great thing.

[of188 0]

My rifle has a pinned FSB. If I take that off to put on a Bulgarian FSB are the pin holes in the FSB likely to line up with the groves already cut in the barrel or am I likely to have to drill for the new pin placement?

 

Thanks,

Bill W.

[L5K 162]

I've never had a Saiga with a pinned sight block, but the "shoulders" where the pins should have been were definitely in the correct spot. It should line up. Even if it doesn't it's really not too big of a deal. Being that yours already has pin slots drilled, and they may not perfectly match up, I would use 1/8th inch pins and drill the holes to that size to help take up any discrepancy between the old slots in the barrel, and the holes in the new block.

[Kilryth 0]

I was able to find aluminum pipe tube at Lowe's that is the same size as the gas tube (1/2" I think), but I couldn't find any brass washers the correct size. I did find some heavy duty steel ones that fit, just in case I needed em. They didn't have a round file (except for their Kobalt stuff), so I found one with a handle at Sears for $6. If Anyone knows where to get some big brass washers to buffer between the aluminum & the gas tube, let me know. If I can't find any easily, I'll do without them.