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My Saiga 12 from start to finish


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#61 ErikTaylor

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Posted 21 August 2011 - 08:31 AM


Well..I'm new here (this is my very first post)......and I have learned a lot from this post. I've been looking at the S12's for a long time, and I've finally decided to get one. I'm going to do the same thing you did...start off with a new non-converted S12, and build it up exactly like you did. Lots of great into in this post....thanks again!!! :D

I would suggest 3 ports at 3/32, or 4 at 5/64. Not 4 at 3/32.


Pauly is right with those port sizes. For myself I really wanted the capability to run Wally World Winchester through it, and even though it is over gassed I have the V-Plug to tame it so I don't bash the rear trunnion. Also I rarely shoot high power slugs or anything like that in my S12 which again would alleviate the likely hood of a damaged trunnion.

Wanted to add one more thanks to Erik on this post. It was instrumental to my gun running low brass. Going from $12 to $5 boxes of ammo will allow me to enjoy this gun much more often.

I just added a para-cord wrap to my Ace stock. It's not as nice looking as Erik's as this was not as easy as it looked, but I think I ended up with something workable.


Wow Milpond that looks great. It is a bitch though isn't it? Halfway through I thought, "Why did I even do this?" haha but in the end I'm glad the way it turned out. Yours too!

Great write up! Wow...thanks for providing a lot of details. I want to modify my Saiga 12 and this helps me understand the parts and name of the parts I want to change; thanks again.


No problem. I'm glad this thread was able to help you. I'm going to redo another one and I'm going to have to go back to this thread. HAHA.

I am kinda new to the forum. I just had to say what an awesome write up. Thanks for all the effort. I have experienced lots of FTE's and FTL's. I am convinced that your well documented steps will help and could eliminate my problem. Thanks again. YOU DA MAN! Posted Image


I'm glad that you benefited from this. If you have any questions please feel free to PM me.
Your wife is just like a new gun...sooner or later you are going to want to shoot them both.

Posted Image

#62 flashpoint08

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 12:44 AM

hi guys first post! I'm thinking about trading my PSL for a saiga 12 and of course plan on converting it, this guide has really got me comfortable with the notion of what I'll need to do especially to be able to shoot the cheap wally world ammo when shooting clays with friends.

I do have a question tho, how hard is it to actually drill out the gas ports on the barrel? will I need a drill press? and will I need a carbide drill bit or something similar? Thanks again for the awesome write up!

Edited by flashpoint08, 27 August 2011 - 12:44 AM.

Posted Image

#63 bobdavis73

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 02:32 PM

I just finished doing mine and it was very easy with a pistol drill and standard high speed steel bit. Since there are already holes there you don't have any problems with the drill taking off on you. The biggest problem is getting the metal burr out of the inside of the barrel. I'm not happy with mine at this point but don't know any tricks to get it really clean. Put something hard down that barrel and you'll scratch the hell out of it. I have used a brass wire cleaner brush till I'm blue in the face and it still has a bit of a burr inside. I am at a point that I will simply take it out and shoot it. The image i am seeing might not be a burr at all but rather the holes magnified by the reflective surface of the inside of the barrel. I hope this helps.

I think this might be my first post on this very awesome forum. I just want to say thanks to the hundreds that have preceded me for all the great information and willingness to help others. Posted Image

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#64 YOT

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 03:21 PM

hi guys first post! I'm thinking about trading my PSL for a saiga 12 and of course plan on converting it, this guide has really got me comfortable with the notion of what I'll need to do especially to be able to shoot the cheap wally world ammo when shooting clays with friends.

I do have a question tho, how hard is it to actually drill out the gas ports on the barrel? will I need a drill press? and will I need a carbide drill bit or something similar? Thanks again for the awesome write up!


No, you can use a hand drill. Just be sure to use a guide to line the drill up with. What I did was put a a drill that fit the holes that were already drilled into one and bored out the ones next to it with the same angle alignment. Go slow and don't put too much pressure on it. It doesn't take much and you don't want to leave burrs or punch through and ding the inside of the barrel across from the ports. If you do have any burrs inside you can remove them with a round dental burr spun with your fingers or very carefully with a micro file.

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#65 pitbulld45

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 09:09 AM

Like everyone else said great info. Im still a bit confused on the port angle. If I am understaning this correct if you put a drill bit in the holes the top shold be angled at the muzzle and the bottom toward the reciever. Is that correct? If it is mine are drilled the wrong way. Can I redrill them pointing the other way, and if so should I enlarge them just a tad? They are already the right size. Any help would be great thanks.

#66 vicdoc

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 07:32 PM

Like everyone else said great info. Im still a bit confused on the port angle. If I am understaning this correct if you put a drill bit in the holes the top shold be angled at the muzzle and the bottom toward the reciever. Is that correct? If it is mine are drilled the wrong way. Can I redrill them pointing the other way, and if so should I enlarge them just a tad? They are already the right size. Any help would be great thanks.

My ports are angled so that the top of the drill bit would be angled towards the receiver, not the other way around. Seems like it would not shave as much stuff off the shot cup this way.

#67 YOT

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 07:58 PM

Like everyone else said great info. Im still a bit confused on the port angle. If I am understaning this correct if you put a drill bit in the holes the top shold be angled at the muzzle and the bottom toward the reciever. Is that correct? If it is mine are drilled the wrong way. Can I redrill them pointing the other way, and if so should I enlarge them just a tad? They are already the right size. Any help would be great thanks.


That's right! Don't do it the other way! The drill bit should be angled toward the muzzle through the bore. RECEIVER-----\\\-----MUZZLE

"It isn't always being fast or even accurate that counts, it's being willing. I found out early that most men regardless of cause or need aren't willing. They blink an eye or draw a breath before they pull the trigger and I won't." - The Shootist (John Wayne)

 

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#68 vicdoc

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 11:19 AM

Thanks for posting this how to. It spurred me to try it and I removed my gas block last night. It was much easier than I thought because the pins just pop right out. Here is the angle of the holes for additional info:
Posted Image
Here are my ports before, note the furthest port is just clear of the block so I didn't do the "D" mod:
Posted Image
Here are the ports after, the front 3 I opened to 5/64ths, and the closest opened to 3/32" since I don't like the low powered cheap stuff, I mainly use mid-powered Winchesters, very cheap at Wallymart:
:Posted Image
Here is the tool I put together to help with the block removal process, the plates are called Ultra-tow Spring Shackles at Northern Tool, and they are about 4-3/8 x 1-3/16th and 3/16" thick. The bolts are 1/2" by 3" long, got them at Lowes. I covered the metal with tape to spare the finish. The fixture is clamped on the receiver side of the block and supported by my metal press plates, and the barrel is protected by a wood block as the press pushes down on the barrel. It pushed out really easy, and the block goes back by putting the tool on the far side of the block, and I just lube and use a rubber mallet to return it to the barrel. If the block needs rotated, it of course must be adjusted before you engage the gas tube. scratched some alignment marks to help with that as well as the scratch mark you use for the back end of the block.
Posted Image
Posted Image

Edited by vicdoc, 15 February 2012 - 04:45 PM.


#69 vicdoc

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 11:25 AM

Oh and one more thing, after cleaning the barrel I did note some lint caught by the rough edges of the holes so I smoothed them out by taping a very small piece of 600 emery cloth to the end of a fat aluminum shotgun cleaning rod, and I used that to smooth the flash out very carefully at the exact location of the ports, which is easy to locate.

#70 wnagy

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Posted 26 March 2012 - 11:31 PM

I am new to the forum. This might be a dumb question but when you enlarge the gas ports can you still shoot 3 inch shells if you are on the right gas setting. I have a MD arms gas plug and css gas puc.

#71 Mullet Man

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Posted 27 March 2012 - 12:32 AM

I am new to the forum. This might be a dumb question but when you enlarge the gas ports can you still shoot 3 inch shells if you are on the right gas setting. I have a MD arms gas plug and css gas puc.


Yes.
Any (2-3/4" or 3") shell will fire off in a Saiga, even with the gas completely closed off. Its the cycling action that is determined by the gas regulator position and the power of the cartridge being used.

Pick the right setting for the cartridge you plan on using. Less gas for high power loads, more gas for light power loads.

Edited by Mullet Man, 27 March 2012 - 12:32 AM.

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#72 skullbox

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 01:42 PM

This reminds me of putting together cheap furnature... Once you finish you feel like you could start a business doing it. LOL

#73 Mr.W

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 10:57 PM

Sweet write up man and bitch'n beast.. I just got a saiga12 today at local gun show(first shootgun) i got a bunch of 2 3/4 1oz. 8 shot cause dealer said would be fine but this bad boy wont spit shells out we tryed changing from 2 - 1 but still not spitting. Is that normal ? picking up some bigger oz tomorrow to try..

#74 KennyFSU

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Posted 30 May 2012 - 09:26 AM

Looks good Erik, do you charge to do any conversions? My friend has one and is located in Tampa, thanks.

#75 Cobra's Custom LLC

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Posted 12 June 2012 - 09:20 PM

Has anyone considered the fact that there are some very critical details in this writeup that are very wrong and are causing folks to ruin their S-12 bolts and carriers? I'm asking for a Mod Review on this topic....

imag036.GIF

 

 - Bolt & Carrier Mods and Polishing > http://www.Cobras-Custom.com <

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#76 -Indy-

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Posted 12 June 2012 - 09:27 PM

already ready already... :up:

Anymore review... let me know.

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#77 Cobra's Custom LLC

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Posted 12 June 2012 - 10:22 PM

Thank you Indy. This has been bothering me for a while. When I had to send a customer's bolt & carrier back to the importer after even the president of warranty dept said it was FUBAR, from the exact same wear patterns shown in this thead, actually promoting doing it to a new gun on purpose....that was just too much. Then twice now, in as many weeks... another member shows up talking about doing it to his parts. Fortunately this one was asking first.... instead of showing off pics and telling even more people to screw up their irreplaceable parts.
Section 8...... hmmmm now I get it! Posted Image
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imag036.GIF

 

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#78 speed455

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 12:29 AM

Very important to deburr gas ports inside the barrel , this will help prevent build up of melted plastic in the gas chamber . I used scotch brite on a drill wraped around a bore brush . Nice write up........



#79 GunFun

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 09:32 PM

Has anyone considered the fact that there are some very critical details in this writeup that are very wrong and are causing folks to ruin their S-12 bolts and carriers? I'm asking for a Mod Review on this topic....

 

Are you referring to the stuff about the timing lugs? 


If we are going to be cleaning up old tech threads, I'd like some kind of warning around the "D mod thread". 'Mostly right' gets a lot of people into trouble.



#80 Cobra's Custom LLC

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Posted 08 October 2013 - 10:02 PM

5) Enlarged the port hole in the gas block- If you look at the first pic from #4, you'll see that the hole barely makes it around the top gas port hole (muzzle side) so I enlarged the port hole in the gas block to allow all the gas to get into the gun. Took about 35 minutes.
a) This part you can do while you are enlarging the gas ports in the barrel. This is why I said if you have a large brake you are going to need to take it off so you can slide the gas block off the barrel. If you haven't done so already, this is the time to take your brake off.
b Examine the barrel and the area specifically around the gas ports (you can see the "ring" around the gas ports in the barrel made from the gas block). If you are lucky and the gas block hole does give enough area for the ports to clear the gas block then everything is fine and nothing else needs to be done. But if not...

post147131231243706thum.jpg

c) Take a file, or dremel (as I used) and clear material in gas block hole until you can see enough has been taken away for all the gas to get into the gas system.

post147131231244176thum.jpg

d) Reassmeble according to instructions in #4.

JeffD's gas block removal thread

6) Rounded out the extractor port at the end of the barrel- This really helped with FTE's by saving energy in the action. The theory is this sharp area digs into the rim of the shell and robs energy from the extraction process which could yeild FTE's. Took about 20 minutes.
a) I got this from a thread from MD Arms (in his business section). What you're going to need to do is take a small file and take gentle strokes and very shallowly round off the sharp angle that is located where the extractor slides over the chamber. If you look at my pic you'll see the area that I'm speaking of (it's in yellow. DO NOT MESS WITH THE PARTS IN RED). Take gentle strokes from starting inside the chamber and round up. Feel with your finger until it is more round, and not sharp.

cimg2513d.jpg

7) Ground down the bolt, and polished it- This makes inserting a loaded magazine easier and also helps smooth out the action and cycling during firing. Took about 30 minutes or so.
a) Take the sandpaper bit and grind part of the bottom of the bolt when the bolt/carrier is in battery. I took a bit of the bulge away from the head of the bolt and made it more flat.
b Repeat polishing process.

cimg2514i.jpg

8)THE INSTRUCTIONS ( of section 8 ) BELOW ARE TO BE USED AT YOUR OWN RISK.... CUTTING/GRINDING/POLISHING AWAY TOO MUCH MATERIAL, AND FAILURE TO LEAVE THE ORIGINAL GEOMETRY OF THESE PARTS CAN CAUSE CATASTROPHIC FAILURE TO YOUR FIREARM!!!!

DO YOU KNOW WHAT TO REMOVE? WHAT NOT TO REMOVE? DO YOU KNOW WHAT IS SAFE AND WHAT IS NOT? IF NOT... DO NOT MAKE THIS PARTICULAR MODIFICATION TO YOUR SAIGA SHOTGUN!!!!


Round the corners/polished the bolt guide in the carrier, and also the bolt head- I did this in a way to make that last 1/4 inch that every says their carrier hangs up if they ride the carrier, and eliminate it. This has helped tremendously and allowed the action to be smoother.Took about 30 minutes or so.
a) Take a dremel and round the corners highlighted and try your best to take the angles out of the equation. Also smooth out and polish the carrier bolt channel and make that as smooth as possible. **IMPORTANT! Very minimal material removal. We are not trying to remove a bunch of material in this process. We want the inconsistencies taken out to create as little of friction as possible.**
b Repeat the polishing process for all the parts that you ground/smoothed out.

cimg2786q.jpg

cimg2785.jpg

 

 

 

There is a LOT wrong between steps 5 and 8 and especially #8. These areas should not even be touched with anything more than a cloth buffing wheel.


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imag036.GIF

 

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#81 Mississippi Auto Arms

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Posted 30 April 2014 - 11:00 AM

For whatever reason I can't edit my old thread I had with the progress, so I had to create a new one.

Well I bought one unconverted and started from there. I did all of the work and customization myself, and it has been a blast (even though the wife bitched at me... it was all worth it). I have done a lot of work here to put this thread together to hopefully help some people that are on the fence of doing their own work. All you need are some basic tools. There's a million different ways you can dress up your S12, but the services I have listed are pretty synonymous for each shotgun. If you have an questions please don't hesitate to ask. I'm not an expert, but familiar with the S12 system. This is what worked for me! I hope this helps you guys and please add to it if you see something. Enjoy fellas!

***Disclaimer*** (Borrowed from Moe Zambeak)
Make sure you follow all safe firearm handling procedures when attempting any firearm modifications! Check your local, state, and federal laws and make sure you are in compliance! I take absolutely no responsibility for anything bad that happens to you, your gun, your dog, etc, etc, etc.

A parts diagram:

explodedsaiga1206.jpg
**I found this on the net, but edited the original parts list to use more common terms for the new Saiga owners**

The only upgraded part on the Saiga when I originally bought it was: Tapco T6 Stock (see pic 1/7) That was the first thing to go!

Here are the parts that are currently on it. (see 7/7 picture)

Tromix D-I-Y trigger guard
Tapco FCG
SAW grip
Ace 7.5 stock Mine is 7.5
Ace folding mechanism
Stock/receiver block
Tromix oversized charging handle
Mississippi Auto Arms quad rail
KAC vertical grip
Pheonix door breacher brake
Gas fixer plug
Twister puck
Burris Fast Fire II
Surefire M95 (Picked it up off ebay for $50)
Blackhawk 3 point sling
2 MD drums
Several russian 8 round sticks
AGP 10 round stick
3 factory 5 rounders

Places that I ordered these parts from:

Carolina Shooters Supply Awesome prices, availability, and super fast shipping.
MD Arms Place of the world's best drum magazine for Saiga Shotguns.
Ebay I bought the Fastfire II from here.


Tools needed for services

Dremel
Dremel sandpaper attachment (grinding wheel)
Dremel abrasive buffs
Dremel polishing kit
Dremel cutting disk attachment
Small file
Industrial grade sheet metal 1/8 thick (similar to this)
Piece of wood like a 2x4
Mallet hammer
Allen key set
Phillips and Flathead medium head sized screwdrivers
Dental pick (angled is preferred by me anyways)
PATIENCE!

Here are some pics showing progress along the way...

1/7 of the way complete (exactly like mine (but mine is 12g), picture was taken from surplusriflesforum):
tactical-saiga.jpg

2/7 of the way complete after basic conversion and adding door breacher brake.
1000455m.jpg

3/7 of the way complete after adding rails, SAW grip, recoil pad, Tromix oversized charging handle, KAC foregrip, and sling
cimg2495k.jpg

4/7 of the way complete after adding the Fastfire II and polished the bolt carrier.
cimg2515.jpg

5/7 of the way complete after adding Ace folding stock and Surefire M95
cimg2560.jpg

6/7 of the way complete after adding MD arms drums
cimg2777h.jpg

7/7 of the way complete after refinishing it in green/black
cimg2779z.jpg

Even with the converted parts and upgrades it still didn't shoot the way I wanted. It would have a FTE every 30 rounds or so. It shot slug and 00 buck perfect, but was having the FTE issues with low recoil 00 buck and also the birdshot. It was pretty annoying, but wanted to get things right. So I did some research on this site, and did the following services to the weapon:

BEST THREAD FOR DOING A CONVERSION: Moe Zambeak's Conversion Thread

1) Polished the carrier- This didn't enhance the reliability of the weapon, but I just wanted to have that look. It looks pretty nice. Took about an hour or so! Here is what I did...
a) You need a dremel for starters and place on there the sandpaper attachment, and start taking off the finish on the carrier.
b Remove the sand paper attachment, and place an abrasive buff on and go over the carrier again. This will take out the inconsistencies from the sanding, and you'll begin to see the shine come through.
c) Remove the abrasive buff, and put on the buffer attachment. Then put some polishing compound on the buffer, and start applying the compound throughout the carrier and let it sit for a few minutes.
d) Remove the buffer attachment and put on a buffer disk and buff the compound off, which will yield the final product; a polished carrier.
e) If you desire (some say it's a must) apply a light coat of oil to protect the carrier from corrosion or rust (since you just took the finish off the carrier.)

cimg2791.jpg

2) Ground down the bottom of the carrier rail- Got rid of the angles on the bottom of the carrier. Also polished it to a mirror shine. Took about 35-40 minutes or so.
a) Take the sandpaper attachment again and round out the edges on the bottom of the carrier.
b Repeat polishing process (b,c,d, and e in #1)

cimg2788s.jpg

3) Ground the hammer and polished it- Took about an hour or so.
a) Take the sandpaper attachment again and round out all the edges (angles) in the hammer.
b Repeat polishing process (b,c,d, and e in #1)

cimg2511h.jpg

4) Enlarged the gas port holes in the barrel- I found when I took my gas block off all the holes were different sizes and some were not done at the correct angle. So I took a 3/32 drill bit (5/64 is correct for a 4 port gun, but it was not cycling Winchester bulk pack. My goal was to get the gun to cycle that because if it did it will shoot anything, and it does. So after 5/64 did not work I used .093 which is the correct diameter for a 3 port gun.) and drilled them at the correct angle. I have the gas fixers plug so it helps regulate the gas that goes into my gun and allowed me to adjust to make the amount of gas correct. Took about 2 hours of work with this. The gas block was a bitch to get off. I took pics for you to see:
a) Take off your handguards, rails, or whatever you have.
b Take off gas plug.
c) Take out the gas puck.
d) If you have a big brake you are going to need to take it off.
e) Punch out the gas block pins.
f) Then you need to tap off the gas block. There are a few ways to do this.
i) Press it off (if you're lucky enough to have access to this equipment, please do share.)
ii) If you're like 99% of people you are going to have to tap it off. What you need to do (through my experience) is go to Home Depot and get an industrial grade piece of sheet metal (1/8 thick to fit between gas tube and barrel). Then you are going to want to also get a 2x4 or similar piece of wood. When you get home place the wood on the floor and place the muzzle on the piece of wood. Then you are going to want to place the sheet metal between the gas block and barrel. In one hand you are holding the sheet metal (opposite of the side you're tapping) and with the other hand with a mallet you are going to tap the block off. Now some say that you can easily tap it off, but again with my experience I had to take some healthy hacks at the sheet metal for the block to finaly come off.
g) Examine the gas block holes and then with a 3/32 bit drill the holes and make sure you drill the angle towards you (the receiver), not straight up and down, nor towards the muzzle. The latter 2 will create problems for you rather than help with cycling the weapon.
h) Once the drilling is complete, now you need to make sure there aren't any burrs in the barrel.
i) Take a flashlight and examine the inside and outside of the barrel at the ports to make sure there aren't any burrs. If there isn't, you are good to go. But if there is...
ii) Take a file and make sure you file off the burrs inside the barrel and also the outside of the barrel if there is any. This will alleviate future problems.
i) After that is done reassemble in reverse order until the handguards are back on and good to go.

JeffD's gas block removal thread

Before... (Notice all are different)

cimg2501.jpg

After... (all are the same)

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5) Enlarged the port hole in the gas block- If you look at the first pic from #4, you'll see that the hole barely makes it around the top gas port hole (muzzle side) so I enlarged the port hole in the gas block to allow all the gas to get into the gun. Took about 35 minutes.
a) This part you can do while you are enlarging the gas ports in the barrel. This is why I said if you have a large brake you are going to need to take it off so you can slide the gas block off the barrel. If you haven't done so already, this is the time to take your brake off.
b Examine the barrel and the area specifically around the gas ports (you can see the "ring" around the gas ports in the barrel made from the gas block). If you are lucky and the gas block hole does give enough area for the ports to clear the gas block then everything is fine and nothing else needs to be done. But if not...

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c) Take a file, or dremel (as I used) and clear material in gas block hole until you can see enough has been taken away for all the gas to get into the gas system.

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d) Reassmeble according to instructions in #4.

JeffD's gas block removal thread

6) Rounded out the extractor port at the end of the barrel- This really helped with FTE's by saving energy in the action. The theory is this sharp area digs into the rim of the shell and robs energy from the extraction process which could yeild FTE's. Took about 20 minutes.
a) I got this from a thread from MD Arms (in his business section). What you're going to need to do is take a small file and take gentle strokes and very shallowly round off the sharp angle that is located where the extractor slides over the chamber. If you look at my pic you'll see the area that I'm speaking of (it's in yellow. DO NOT MESS WITH THE PARTS IN RED). Take gentle strokes from starting inside the chamber and round up. Feel with your finger until it is more round, and not sharp.

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7) Ground down the bolt, and polished it- This makes inserting a loaded magazine easier and also helps smooth out the action and cycling during firing. Took about 30 minutes or so.
a) Take the sandpaper bit and grind part of the bottom of the bolt when the bolt/carrier is in battery. I took a bit of the bulge away from the head of the bolt and made it more flat.
b Repeat polishing process.

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8)THE INSTRUCTIONS ( of section 8 ) BELOW ARE TO BE USED AT YOUR OWN RISK.... CUTTING/GRINDING/POLISHING AWAY TOO MUCH MATERIAL, AND FAILURE TO LEAVE THE ORIGINAL GEOMETRY OF THESE PARTS CAN CAUSE CATASTROPHIC FAILURE TO YOUR FIREARM!!!!

DO YOU KNOW WHAT TO REMOVE? WHAT NOT TO REMOVE? DO YOU KNOW WHAT IS SAFE AND WHAT IS NOT? IF NOT... DO NOT MAKE THIS PARTICULAR MODIFICATION TO YOUR SAIGA SHOTGUN!!!!


Round the corners/polished the bolt guide in the carrier, and also the bolt head- I did this in a way to make that last 1/4 inch that every says their carrier hangs up if they ride the carrier, and eliminate it. This has helped tremendously and allowed the action to be smoother.Took about 30 minutes or so.
a) Take a dremel and round the corners highlighted and try your best to take the angles out of the equation. Also smooth out and polish the carrier bolt channel and make that as smooth as possible. **IMPORTANT! Very minimal material removal. We are not trying to remove a bunch of material in this process. We want the inconsistencies taken out to create as little of friction as possible.**
b Repeat the polishing process for all the parts that you ground/smoothed out.

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9) Added the Ace Folding stock- It took me about 30 minutes from start to finish to get the stock on, but I'm happy with it. It's really solid. No rattle in the stock whatsoever.
a) Take off your old stock
b Take a dremel and put the metal cutting disc on it and cut off the tang flush to the reciever.

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*If you don't cut the tang back to flush with the receiver the receiver block can't sit flush against the back of the receiver. This will give an gap between the receiver and receiver block. It will also give downward angle to the stock.*

c) Clean out metal shavings inside the receiver

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d) If you have the plastic plugs from the conversion in the sides of the reciever (where the sporter FCG used to be), remove them.
e) Place your stock block into the receiver, and make sure it's flush. If its not, repeat step b until the tang is cut back flush with the receiver. Secure the block into the receiver with the screws provided. It would also be a good idea to put loctite on the screws to prevent rattling loose during firing.
f) Take your folding mechanism and screw it into the block. A dab of loctite will help with making sure the screws don't come loose during firing.
g) Attach the new stock to the folding mechanism. Again put loctite on the screws to prevent them from coming loose during firing.

10) Aftercare- I put grease on the metal parts that were going to contact and cause friction in the act of cycling during a firing of a round (hammer, bottom of carrier, bolt stem, bolt guide, and carrier channel) and hand cycled it for a good 10 minutes to smooth out all those parts that were going to be in contact and try to make them as one with the new surfaces. Then I cleaned the parts off and maintained the rest of the gun like anyone normally would.

So I did #'s 1-10 during the week after the FTE's I had that weekend. The action is 100% smoother and doesn't hang up anywhere while charging the weapon. You can ride the carrier and it still is smooth as hell.

Also I've had some requests on how I wrapped my stock in paracord. The picture I did up tries to explain how I wrapped it. I started in position "1" until I got to position "4" Then tie it off and take a lighter and burn the knot to prevent coming loose.

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I took it to the range after all the work I did and had 0 FTE's with Winchester birdshot. In fact some loads were able to be shot on a lesser gas setting! This occured with slow shots, and as fast as I could pull the trigger. I've put about 1000 rounds through it now since the work and I haven't had 1 single FTE or FTF. The gun is 100% better than it was when I first got it! It is 100% reliable (just keep it clean). I couldn't be happier with it at this point, and is now my favorite weapon. This is offically a head turner now!

Again hopefully this helps you guys! Take care!

awesome idea !! looks great ! 


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