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Conversion:give-up


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Well I tried the conversion and got to the part where you drill through the spot weld and rivets. I couldn't drill the spot weld out or the rivets. Iused Titanium drill bits and a good drill. What the hell do you use..diamond tipped?

 

 

I've taken too long just to get to this stage. I am bowing out gracefully but now have my Saiga in bits. I'm going to UPS tomorrow and packing it all up and sending off to be completed. Any recommendations where to send it? I saw Krebs went doing anything until August. I want this back in two weeks.

 

What about Elite?

 

Let me know

 

Thanks

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all u need are some words of encouragement......

dont give up!

try again!

you can do it!

never say die!

youre almost there!

you are a winner!

you have the ability to succeed!

the only thing you have to fear is not converting it yourself!

keep drilling!

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post-1114-1114689100_thumb.jpgCall Coles Gun Works they can do it for you they did it for me and mine works great. http://www.colesgunworks.com/ Here you go if can't open it let me know and I'll post his phone number remember John sent you. I think he wants around $150 but I don't remember exactly. If you have not seen the video clip check it out. I would call him because he has a spam blocker which blocks about everyone even me. And I'm a friend

 

update the spam blocker is fixed, if you put the word Saiga in your e-mail, the blocker will send it through. Still the phone is your best friend.

Edited by topmaul
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Well I tried the conversion and got to the part where you drill through the spot weld and rivets. I couldn't drill the spot weld out or the rivets. Iused Titanium drill bits and a good drill. What the hell do you use..diamond tipped?

 

 

I've taken too long just to get to this stage. I am bowing out gracefully but now have my Saiga in bits. I'm going to UPS tomorrow and packing it all up and sending off to be completed. Any recommendations where to send it? I saw Krebs went doing anything until August. I want this back in two weeks.

 

What about Elite?

 

Let me know

 

Thanks

Don't give up. Borrow a drill press or ground the rivits flush with a dremmel. I never could drill through the front weld on the trigger guard. I cut around the trigger guard on the trigger cover plate to remove it. I ended up jbwelding the front of the trigger guard in place because could not drill through the weld.

 

Here is my trigger guard improvzation. The rear of the guard still attaches like normal with a screw. In the first pic you can see where I tried to drill thourgh the guard.

 

100_0325.jpg

 

100_0326.jpg

 

100_0324.jpg

Edited by jimmystop
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If the spot weld is the only thing holding you up you could try a local machine shop and take it to them to drill or mill it for you. Might cost you a few dollars.

 

I know that the next time I do this I'm taking it in to the shop where I work and using a carbide endmill on the sucker.

 

 

Shep

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Titanum bits are not realy agressive enough. :killer: Do the following, and you will get'r done. :super:

 

Using even a low dollar mini drillpress helps.

Other than that use a center punch before drilling, to help the bit get a good bite, and not walk all over the place.

Also use a Colbalt bit, for hardened steel. I know that Sears sells them.

Also apply cutting oil to the spot that you have center punched, before you start drilling. It only takes a drop, or two. If you use an oil other actual cutting oil, make sure that it does not contain Teflon.

Use steady preasure on the bit, enough to make the bit cut cleanly, but not much more than it takes for the bit to do its work.

Also use a realy slow speed.

If you do all these things, it's realy not bad. You can do it with a hand drill, but it's a bit easier with a drill press.

Edited by cscharlie
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On the wife's .410 I seperated the weld with a hammer and cold chisel-one good whack and it came lose. Made drilling a lot easier. Used an $89 dollar dril press and plain hs steel bit. SLOW speed,good centerpunch,lots of oil.

 

G O B

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Also use a Colbalt bit, for hardened steel. I know that Sears sells them.

 

are the cobalt bits better for drilling steel than the titanium. The guy at the hardware store told me titaniums were better for hardened steel. whats the deal

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Spot welds are a bit nasty in terms of hardness, but I went through several cobalt and several more carbide bits before I got through. Also, I had to get a small, well worn cutting blade on my dremmel to cut a star pattern on the reverse side of the trigger guard before the drills ould get through. Then 8 x 32 screws, and voila!

 

28817selector_stop-med.JPG

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The titanium bits that I've used, were titanium coated. As soon as the coating would wear off, then I was just trying to rub the bit through the material, not cut through. I can do a conversion with one craftsman colbalt bit, or about a dozen titanium bits. The center punch, oil, slow speed, and right presure makes a difference on how soon the bit dulls also.

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are the cobalt bits better for drilling steel than the titanium. The guy at the hardware store told me titaniums were better for hardened steel.  whats the deal

 

Guy at hardware store wanted to sell you something....

 

Cobalt bits + motor/cutting oil = happiness

 

Pretend it's your first girlfriend, go SLOW

 

Jeric

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Yes I called thanks for the heads-up . what he's charging me to finish the conversion I would have used up in drill bits !

 

Ill post a pic once I receive it back. As I supplied Tapco FCG I wonder if he will alter the hammer by polishing or grinding. Do you think he fires it with a shell after completion to check?

 

Thanks again

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Yes I called thanks for the heads-up . what he's charging me to finish the conversion I would have used up in drill bits !

 

Ill post a pic once I receive it back. As I supplied Tapco FCG I wonder if he will alter the hammer by polishing or grinding. Do you think he fires it with a shell after completion to check?

 

Thanks again

 

 

I sure your going to be happy with the results

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