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muzzle brake threading question


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I'm going to cut the fsb on my saiga like stokstad did in this thread.

 

I looked on a few websites that sell the '74-type brakes and most are made for 14x1 LeftHand threads.

 

I've got a couple questions first:

 

How much of the shroud do I need to cut off?

Is that the correct threading (14mm x 1 Left Hand) for this type of brake?

Is there enough 'meat' to thread it for the 14x1 LH threads?

Will this type of brake reduce muzzle climb and felt recoil?

 

 

Just for the hell of it, here's a pic of my saiga:

image006.jpg

 

A few more pics of it and my SAR-1 here.

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YES!! that is almost all totally correct.

 

14X1 LH is correct for 90% of ak74 brakes...

 

I threaded all the way to the FSB... I cut it off with a dremel, carefully...

 

There is MORE than enough meat on the barrel to thread... it takes LONGER to cut off the sleeve, than it does to thread, honestly...

 

You will need a DIE, a HANDLE, and a TAT (Thread Alignment Tool)

 

The TAT is to GUARANTEE you thread true and square to the muzzle. Otherwise, your brake might be crooked... and that would be BAD...

 

They can be purchased here... this is where I got mine...

 

http://dynasystems-ltd.com/threadingkits.htm

 

I would also RECOMMEND that you cut MORE than you will need and thread slowly, and test fit the brake as you go... so that if its not perfectly where you want it, you can thread a TEENY bit more so that it TIGHTENS VERY TIGHT to aling properly... then RED THREADLOCK... ( Or if you replace the FSB... it aligns with the plunger.)

 

As far as felt recoil or muzzle climb... I noticed a small decrease in muzzle climb and only MARGINAL reduction in recoil, although a 45% decrease is advertised, I wouldnt rate it more than about maybe 20%. This is a replica brake, and not a two peice brake like the Soviet Military uses... with a TRUE Soviet brake, I think you would feel the closer to 45% reduction!

 

They STILL *LOOK* cool as all hell, though... so THATS why I went with one... for the LOOK more than any beneficial aspects it might have added...

 

 

Here are a few pics...

 

Good luck

76220wbrake.jpg

Edited by IndyArms
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IndyArms, thanks for the replies.

Your brake is a 1 piece, correct?

 

Or if you replace the FSB... it aligns with the plunger.

Could you clarify that a little? I'm not replacing the FSB, but what do you mean by 'it aligns with the plunger'?

 

Thanks again,

Jason

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On a saiga there is no plunger on the FSB... WASR10's and the other "REAL Ak's" ETC.... have a spring loaded plunger at the tip of the FSB to align a muzzle device... there is a notch in the muzzle device, that the plunger will click into, and lock it in place when its at the proper alignment ( top, center)...

 

Since the saiga doesnt have this plunger, you will have to lock the threaded muzzle device to the barrel in some fashion, whether it be a locking nut, or pin the brake, or threadlock, or weld, ETC... there are MANY options...mine is just TIGHT as hell, and I have no threadlock on it... so far.. several hundred rounds thru it, and it hasnt MOVED!... If I have to, I will blue locktite it.. so it CAN be removed if needed...red will make it more permanent...

 

If you are going to thread your own... just do as I recommend, and thread most of the tip, then test to see where the MD aligns.. if its not TIGHT at top center, thread slightly more, till you get it to the point that you need to crank it tight to make it at TOP CENTER... then once its properly aligned, you can unscrew it, and threadlock the threads, then re-tighten... and you should be all set!

 

Any thing I missed you need to know?? or any other questions I can help with?

 

OH.... yes, I forgot to answer one ??..... YES... the one I have posted here, is a one peice!

:smoke:

Edited by IndyArms
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OH... I also almost forgot...

 

I gave a link to dynasystems, for the threading kits... they ALSO have the ak-74 style breaks for $18.95... DONT PAY anymore than that for one, no matter where ya go, unless its a TWO PEICE BRAKE SETUP...

 

I got one from AA-OK, and one from RBP usa..

 

one was 19.95 from RPB... the AA-OK one was 30.00... BOTH ARE IDENTICAL... and I mean like off the SAME ASSEMBLY LINE...

 

chances are yours will be too... so no need to spend the extra when you can get them for less... and if you are buying a threading kit, get the brake in the same shipment, to cut shipping costs!

 

:smoke:

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Without an image, I do not know...

give them a call and ask them... or, PM VJOR... and see where he got his two piece brake...

 

One thing to know, however, is the two piece brakes are *NOT* 14X1 LH threaded... they are like 24X1 LH or some such...that need to be pressed onto an UNTHREADED barrel... check VJORS post for his details... let me see if I can find the link for that one...

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=5500

 

there ya go... details, and lots of pics on the "real deal"

 

Enjoy!

 

 

:smoke:

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Well, that certainly put a damper on things.

 

Thanks again IndyArms,

Jason

 

edit:

 

While rifling through my list of AK stuff links, I found this. This seems to be the same brake that Vjor used, but they've got a thread adapter at the bottom of the page that goes from 14x1LH to 24x1 external threads, which should fit their brakes. Sounds like I can make this work after all.

Edited by jason99xj
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Just got off the phone with Chris at AK-USA and he says that if I cut off the shroud, the barrel will be around .022 (22 thousandths) inches off and will destroy the threading die (14mm x 1).

 

But,he said he's got some bushing just like Vjor has, that slips over the front sight shroud.

 

If I take off the front sight shroud, and try to thread the barrel for 14mm x1 and it gets screwed up, I'd be totally screwed. So, right now the plan is to get the bushing, have a friend tack-weld it on, then use the 24mm brake. The only things I have to worry about are making sure the bushing gets welded on straight, and finding some way to make sure the brake doesn't come off while shooting. I may just end up doing the exact thing Vjor did, except tack-welding the bushing on instead of press-fitting it on.

 

Damn if this didn't get screwy real quick.

 

Jason

 

Ah the joys of owning a Saiga...

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The threading die I got from Precise Innovations, is ADJUSTABLE in diameter, with a set screw, so you can START with it more open, get your threads started, then tighten it up and cut them again. I didnt have to do this, I got it pretty much right from the get go... I threaded the whole barrel in less than 5 minutes of actual THREADING TIME... just followed the directions on the website EXACTLY, went SLOW, and used lots of oil.... it cut the threads almost perfectly the FIRST TIME...The die holder, is also adjustable, so if you tighten the die, you tighten the holder accordingly...

 

I am very pleased with their products, and I must admit, it was a LOT easier than I expected!

 

 

:smoke:

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A barrel needs to be close to .571 for a 14mm die. Ive heard some people add bushings and whatnot to gain diameter for a certain FH and Im sure it can be done. On my wasr I threaded it to 1/2-28 and used a 3 prong AR FH since the diameter was so close already.

 

Theres more than one way to skin a cat :-)~

 

 

277533.jpg

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The problem, as Chris explained to me, is that the part of the barrel under the shroud is around 22/1000th of an inch too big for an ideal 14mm x 1 LH thread. He said you could use the adjustable die, like IndyArms said, and risk it being threaded wrong or badly. If something should happen, I'd be completely screwed. He said several times that the threading die would most likely be destroyed after threading.

 

However, if I get the bushing that fits over the Saiga front sight, and tack weld that into place, I would still be able to cut off the shroud on the front sight (bushing and all) and then thread the barrel to 14mm if I ever wanted to.

 

I'm going to have a buddy come over to my house tomorrow and stare at it with me for a while.

 

I'm going to make an FAQ/How-to out of this mess some time.

 

If anyone is wondering, I also called RPB-USA today. The man I spoke with said that their AK-74 style brakes are $40 and the thread adapter (14mm internal, 24mm external) are $10. I'll try and get a price on the bushing (like Vjor's) tomorrow.

 

Thanks for all the input guys,

Jason

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This adapter from www.gunsnstuff.net is the same thing as thisthis adapter from AK-USA/RPB-USA. Both are $9.99.

 

Vjor, how much was the press-on bushing you got?

 

What I'm going to do is get all three: Bulgarian or US made AK-74 brake, bushing, and thread adapter. From there I'll decide which is best. If I go with the press-on bushing option, I'll only be out ten bucks for the thread adapter. Either way, count on a write-up/how-to thread when I do it.

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  • 3 weeks later...

If you use a threaded adapter make sure it's on tight. Mine shot off at the range with the Krinkov muzzle brake and I found it about 15 yard down range. I tightened it and used thread locking compound and super glue after the adapter was in place.

 

Those who thread their barrels should go slowly and back off every quarter turn before continuing to cut threads. You need to cut or file off the barrel end sleeve before you can thread.

 

:osama::killer:

:sadam::killer:

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NOT ONLY THAT.... but... as you thread... you want to track where the break will stop in relation to proper alignment...

 

you do not want to overthread... as the break will be in a LOOSE position to be vertical, and if tightened down... will not be straight up and down...

 

I will thread... test fit the break, see where its seating, and then use that as a rough guide as to how many turns ( or partial turns) I need to go to get it tight just before vertical alignment, so that when I really horse down on it, with a long leverage device, it will be VERY TIGHT in the proper vertical alignment....

 

 

Done that on the last two I have threaded.... seemed to work wonderfully! the brakes are VERY TIGHT and are straight!

 

:smoke:

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The first time I tried to fit my muzzle brake, I pressed it on with a pin fit into a notch in the barrel and lots of red loctite.

 

Needless to say, in the winter, when the barrel heated up, the brake flew right off.

 

I looked into a threading tool, but in the end, I just decided to make three little tack welds to hold it in place. 1000 rounds later it hasent budged. And it didnt cost me a dime.

 

Just a suggestion.

post-1374-1116721525_thumb.jpg

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