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20 gauge gas block removal

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I read the 12 gauge tutorial but the 20 gasblock looks different? Those of you that have removed your gasblock from your 20 gauge....which pins do you remove? I have 2 lower pins and one upper pin (in between the gas tube and barrel. The 2 lower pins go all the way through and I can punch out easily, the upper pin looks like it doesn't go all the way though? Please see video. Do I need to remove this upper pin to get the gas block off and how do I get it out?


When I look in the gas tube I can see one hole and feel 2 others that I think are being partially blocked by the gas block.





Edited by Arnisandyz
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Just those bottom two pins. The one in the center holds the gas-setting pin in the gas block.


I'd recommend getting a piece of brass/aluminum that will give you a large surface to beat on and then knocking the block off.

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we used a big block of brass and went around and around on it, I didn't see any way that a piece of sheet metal was going to generate the force needed on the one we did.

I'm still deciding about removing the barrel to put at Cutt's comp on the gun, some things are best left to the pros (oh VanKiller)

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just got my gas block back on, that was as almost big a pain in the butt as getting it off.

I've seen people say their gas block was loose this kind of makes you wonder if that is really a bad thing.

didn't enlarge the 3 existing ports, added one with a # 44 bit (.086).

I still plan to get this gun off to Tom (VanKiller) Cole and have my Cutt's comp put on at some point down the road.

that coupled with this gun didn't run quite as well as my test mule with light birdshot loads (wanted only 1 oz) prompted this action.

I hope to be able to use the factory recoil spring with birdshot and I was in on the 1st group for the Tac-47 Auto Plug should be a good test of something even if it's wrong. (including my belief some things are better left to the pros.)

Should have the rest of my parts in from Greg at CSS next week and I see if it's magic or tragic.

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