Whats the best way to get the gas block off?

[wired 27]

I suppose its time to open up the gas ports. Whats the best way to get the block off?

[Spartacus 1,619]

I did it with a brass door hinge and a 3 pound hammer.

 

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=51183&view=findpost&p=478443

[evlblkwpnz 3,418]

This is how I do it....

 

Knock the pins out from left to right. When you are removing the pin where the detent for the gas plug is, wrap something around the barrel in front of the pin (like a towel?) to keep the detent from flying across the room, lol.

 

Once the pins are out, give the gas block a couple good whacks with a rubber mallet on each side where the plug goes (the chamber). You will notice that it has moved/tilted a bit and this will undermine burrs that may make it stubborn to get off.

 

Put the rifle muzzle down in a vise (clamped at the trunnion) or on the floor on a soft piece of wood (white pine?), doesn't matter. If you use the floor, make sure someone can steady the weapon for you. Place some thick flat metal (I use a dulled metal chisel, not wood) on what would now be the top of the lug that the handguard screw goes into (doesn't hurt to put a little masking tape here to lessen the damage to the finish). Drive the gas block off by striking the chisel (or whatever) with a hammer. It doesn't have to be a heavy hammer. I like to put a little grease on the barrel in front of the gas block to lessen the chance of scraping the finish when the block starts to come off.

 

As always, be safe and take yout time.

 

When you put the block back on, apply a thin layer of grease to the inside of the gas block and the gas block seat so it will go on a little easier. I use the same method to get it back on, but the rear of the receiver is pointing down and resting on a piece of wood, so the weapon is not resting on the tang. I drive it on by using the opposite side of the handguard attachment lug.

Edited August 16, 2010 by evlblkwpnz

[magsite20 1,664]

if it's hitting now at the right point of aim make sure to put a mark on it and the barrel so when you go back together it's not tilted.

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

What I do first is scribe a small line on the barrel, marking the rear edge of the GB in the center of the bottom half of bbl. I make a small scratch in the paint using a box cutter or other sharp tool. Then I use a center punch to make a small divot in the center of the rear bottom edge of the GB, and a matching mark on the barrel just below it. When re installing the GB on the bbl you can align these two dots to clock the GB exactly where it was originally on the scribed line. You can also tell by looking through the blind pin holes to be sure it's aligned perfectly. Now this is on a gun that is already sighted in pretty decent. If yours has a "cant" to it, meaning the GB isn't on perfectly straight (common these days)....now is the time to fix that. You can twist or rotate it to where it is correctly aligned, then re drill the blind pin holes if necessary, using an end mill. If it's lubed well you can hit it on the side with a rubber mallet to clock it where you want on the bbl. As said above, this also helps break it loose before removal, allowing the penetrating oil to get all around between bbl and GB.

 

In this pic you can see the dot I made on the rear bottom center of the gas block.

 

Also, from my experience it makes no difference which direction you drive the pins in or out. I drive them out right to left (right being the ejection port side).

You can unscrew the gas plug about halfway, and leave it between settings, to catch the detent plungers and keep it from flying out when you remove the pin punch.

 

If you don't have access to a shop press then a large brass punch (about 1/2" thick) and a two lb. sledge hammer work great to remove the block, after first soaking it in penetrating oil.

 

 

 

[TX-Zen 287]

This is how I do it....

 

Knock the pins out from left to right. When you are removing the pin where the detent for the gas plug is, wrap something around the barrel in front of the pin (like a towel?) to keep the detent from flying across the room, lol.

 

Once the pins are out, give the gas block a couple good whacks with a rubber mallet on each side where the plug goes (the chamber). You will notice that it has moved/tilted a bit and this will undermine burrs that may make it stubborn to get off.

 

Put the rifle muzzle down in a vise (clamped at the trunnion) or on the floor on a soft piece of wood (white pine?), doesn't matter. If you use the floor, make sure someone can steady the weapon for you. Place some thick flat metal (I use a dulled metal chisel, not wood) on what would now be the top of the lug that the handguard screw goes into (doesn't hurt to put a little masking tape here to lessen the damage to the finish). Drive the gas block off by striking the chisel (or whatever) with a hammer. It doesn't have to be a heavy hammer. I like to put a little grease on the barrel in front of the gas block to lessen the chance of scraping the finish when the block starts to come off.

 

As always, be safe and take yout time.

 

When you put the block back on, apply a thin layer of grease to the inside of the gas block and the gas block seat so it will go on a little easier. I use the same method to get it back on, but the rear of the receiver is pointing down and resting on a piece of wood, so the weapon is not resting on the tang. I drive it on by using the opposite side of the handguard attachment lug.

 

 

I basically used this method without the oil or grease, but applied heat from a torch to loosen it up.

 

 

Z

[Wade Pruetz 103]

After my super slick coating installed by my favorite gunsmith, I just remove the pins and watch the gas block slide down the barrel. Not your typical experience I know, I have used the shelf bracket method several times even though I have a shop press.

[sapper1371usmc 107]

I've been able to tap the Gas block off with nothing more than a small hammer, same goes with reinstalling the gas block once you finished. Just make sure that when you tap the block back on, you have the plug screwed in. This will keep you from deforming the threads and the end of the gas block. Just helps to distribute pressure equally. Also make sure you make a witness mark on barrel and gas block before you remove it to ensure that you return the block to it's original position.