How to Improve Saiga Trigger

[monomonk 0]

I have read statements that the Saiga .308 trigger pull is poor but mine is fairly good. It is one stage and fairly short and light. There is only a slight take-up before the disconnector engages the hammer. But the pull on my Saiga 7.62 by 39 is rather poor. There is a substantial, heavy take-up--that is the main problem. The second stage of the pull, to release the hammer, is not too bad. What can be done to eliminate the take-up stage and lighten the 7.62 by 39 trigger pull without doing a full conversion to AK configuration? I have a Chinese AK, MAK-90, that has an excellent trigger.

 

Thanks,

 

Monomonk

[hoop762 0]

it is my experience from all that i have read on this forum that the only way to really fix your problem is to do the conversion. Others have tried polishing the contact surfaces on the trigger and hammer with a polishing paste or something liek that, and from what i have read, have had very little successful results

 

dont let me totally rain on your parade though...there are many others here much more knowlegeble than i. GOOD LUCK

 

 

HOOP

[Onepoint 0]

I have polished up mine some, it makes it slightly lighter, a little smoother but still is long. The G2 is a heck of a lot better trigger, but the stock trigger on my 223 is not all that bad after I have worked on it I dont think. Some people are very picky about how a trigger feels, some aren't.

 

I had read elsewhere that someone had worked on the area where the transfer bar hits the disconector so it it doesnt slide up until it trips, which made it very crisp. But I wouldnt recommend messing with it unless you are willing to screw it up and then fix it

[AK-treO8 0]

The G2 single hook is pretty nice for the conversions, and I've read here that the RSA is even better. I accidently ended up with about a 3lb trigger on my .410 conversion, w/very short reset and crisp, short pull.

 

I say accidently because I had to cut a couple of coils out of the little spring that goes inside of the trigger assembly as it was bunged up getting it out of the Saiga trigger assembly. It's perfectly safe and fuctional, it's been thoroughly tested with no mishaps, 100 rounds or so.

 

I'm pretty sure that's what made the difference anway because nothing has been polished or cleaned up on the G2 trigger in the .410 and I've done a couple of other conversions with the same trigger group and didn't cut that little spring down and those triggers are not quite as good. I guess it puts less tension on the disconnector or something? Anyway I like the result and will probably try it on my 20, and possibly the .308, if I can successfully repeat the outcome.

[J A 0]

I haven't tried this. It was sent to me several years ago and the author said it worked well. It might be worth a try before spending any money on a new trigger group.

 

[IndyArms 10,186]

That is good...

 

There is a website that details the same thing with step by steps and pics and tutorials, for not only polishing the trigger, but a WEALTH OF other AK info to boot!!!

 

http://www.gunsnet.net/Linx310/fcg.htm

 

That particular link is to the FCG polish section, but you can get to the rest along the left edge, I *RECOMMEND THE READING* to ANY AK owner!!!!

 

[Unknown Poster 5]

I just moly the reciever up, I put moly on the trigger sears, bolt, bolt carrier and on the gas piston too. Its a different gun after its moly'ed up. Just work it in by hand then shoot it. All my guns are moly'ed up. UKP

[LESchwartz 9]

The set screw in that trigger diagram has always made me a little nervious . . .

 

Larry

[danny boy 0]

You can also buy any AK trigger set and cut the "trigger" part off. If you take the Saiga parts out you'll see that is exactly what was done to begin with.

[woollywillyhaynes 0]

You can also buy any AK trigger set and cut the "trigger" part off. If you take the Saiga parts out you'll see that is exactly what was done to begin with.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

How's that done? Without converting the saiga?

[woollywillyhaynes 0]

You can also buy any AK trigger set and cut the "trigger" part off. If you take the Saiga parts out you'll see that is exactly what was done to begin with.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

How's that done? Without converting the saiga?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Oh wait...I think I'm starting to understand

[uzitiger 193]

I got a compliance parts kit consisting of trigger, disconnector, hammer, gas piston and pistol grip at a gun show for $39. I was going to replace the trigger, disconnector and hammer when I saw that it's easier to convert the rifle which is what I intend to do. I asked a friend who builds AKs and he also feels that it's easier to convert than cut the trigger to fit the rifle and use the trasfer bar. It's probably better to fire a direct trigger than use the transfer bar. Any feedback from users who converted their Saigas?

 

[IndyArms 10,186]

Well, think of it like this....

 

DIRECT force on the solid peice of steel that will release the hammer...

 

INDIRECT force, moving three distinctly separate parts that need to rock against each other on 3 separate pivot points to release the same hammer...

 

Which do you think will give a tighter feel with less margin for slop?

 

 

BY THE WAY.... *YAY!!!!!!!! TWO THOUSANDTH POST!!!! WOOOWOOO!!!!*

 

2000.... wooowoo!!! YIPPEE!!!!!! ROFL!!!

 

Edited July 17, 2005 by IndyArms