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Will a recoil spring fix my problem


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Back again I have ran over 300 rounds of high brass thru my saiga 12 with a 24inch barrel, and it still wont cycle low brass at all.Ive tried a new twister gas puck and a gunfixers gas plug with no luck. So I called RAA Saiga today, they told me that they have heard of this issue and would send me out a weaker recoil spring. That and making sure the rails are lubed will do the trick, will this work? My saiga only has two ports but I hear that is fine for the 24inchers, the only other change Ive done to the gun was changing the stock to a tapco retractable stock(which I like) any info would be great. Thanks Greekjeep

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Back again I have ran over 300 rounds of high brass thru my saiga 12 with a 24inch barrel, and it still wont cycle low brass at all.Ive tried a new twister gas puck and a gunfixers gas plug with no luck. So I called RAA Saiga today, they told me that they have heard of this issue and would send me out a weaker recoil spring. That and making sure the rails are lubed will do the trick, will this work? My saiga only has two ports but I hear that is fine for the 24inchers, the only other change Ive done to the gun was changing the stock to a tapco retractable stock(which I like) any info would be great. Thanks Greekjeep

So you fed all of that expensive ammo to your weapon and the 'break in' didn't work? Here is my take on the matter.... if making a Saiga 12 run well on low power ammo was as simple as feeding it some high brass for a while, many 'smiths here would be kicking cans looking for a job. I actually do perform a sort of 'break in' procedure. I lightly mist the carrier and bolt with black spray paint, insert them in the weapon, go to the back porch, and violently cycle the action for about 5 minutes. This helps me see what friction areas need to be addressed and knocks off any major burrs in the lockup area of the trunnion.

 

It sounds like you need to do some friction reduction. Your weapon can run well without the reduced recoil spring. All of my S12s have stock plugs and stock springs. No voodoo gadgets necessary ;)

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its real easy. this is what i did.

1 (do a basic coversion) then polish/ reshape internals

2 remove gas block and open up youre ports

3 get a good after market gas plug

 

 

4 enjoy beer.

Edited by psl sniper
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its real easy. this is what i did.

1 (do a basic coversion) then polish/ reshape internals

2 remove gas block and open up youre ports

3 get a good after market gas plug

 

 

4 enjoy beer.

How do open the ports,Im not affraid to try just dont know what to do.

 

Google < In the link your answer awaits.

 

read for a week, we will be waiting for your questions then.

 

Also, read stickies, you must.

 

Use the search format I provided for you. Just change the open ports to whatever you are looking forward. Good luck!

 

Most of the guys here are very helpful, but you must edumacate yourself enough to know what to ask.

 

Your saiga will be awesome when it is all said and done.

Edited by Stansplace
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theres a thread on it sowhere . just do a quick search. it has a step by step with pics (always helpful)

if you look at the top of the forums page theres a sticky about step by step conversion go down a little and it will link you to jeffds gas block removal.

Edited by psl sniper
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How is a reduced recoil spring more of a "voodoo gadget" than an after market plug? Personally, I think that they are both viable alternatives to making permanent changes to your gun. Futhermore, not everyone has the money to pay a gunsmith or the ability/tools to make those permanent changes. It took a reduced recoil spring to make my gun cycle low brass and all I have to do to put my gun back to it's factory configuration is quickly change out the plug and spring.

 

I say get the reduced recoil spring and try it out. It's only a few bucks.

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How is a reduced recoil spring more of a "voodoo gadget" than an after market plug? Personally, I think that they are both viable alternatives to making permanent changes to your gun. Futhermore, not everyone has the money to pay a gunsmith or the ability/tools to make those permanent changes. It took a reduced recoil spring to make my gun cycle low brass and all I have to do to put my gun back to it's factory configuration is quickly change out the plug and spring.

 

I say get the reduced recoil spring and try it out. It's only a few bucks.

you dont have a hammer, and a drill? thats all i used.

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I have everything I need to do pretty much anything I want, outside of welding and threading. But not everyone has the tools, the know how or the desire. Beside, I'm sure you needed more than just a hammer and a drill. Didn't you need a vice, a punch and a dill bit? What about refinishing the gun after removing and reinstalling the block? You didn't have to do that?

Edited by Bridis
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I have everything I need to do pretty much anything I want, outside of welding and threading. But not everyone has the tools, the know how or the desire. Beside, I'm sure you needed more than just a hammer and a drill. Didn't you need a vice, a punch and a dill bit? What about refinishing the gun after removing and reinstalling the block? You didn't have to do that?

Thank you for your imput on this topic, hopefully this will take care of the issue. Thanks again Greekjeep

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If you have a threaded barrel, just run a full choke and it'll certainly help with those weak loads.

 

There's a ridiculous amount of things you can do to help the weapon run better in general though, which have already been mentioned.

I really believe if you only have 2 ports, that you're probably never going to have the gun running the exceptionally weak stuff without opening them up and adding at least 1 more.

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take a q-tip, and apply some transmission fluid to the contact areas of the bottom of the bolt, the receiver rails, and also the face of the hammer. it isnt a solution, but it will slick things up a little bit, if that is the issue, and will get you started looking in the right direction...

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I have everything I need to do pretty much anything I want, outside of welding and threading. But not everyone has the tools, the know how or the desire. Beside, I'm sure you needed more than just a hammer and a drill. Didn't you need a vice, a punch and a dill bit? What about refinishing the gun after removing and reinstalling the block? You didn't have to do that?

no vice. yes a drill is pretty silly without a bit, thats a given. i honestly just used the punch thats standerd in the cleaning kit. unless you bought used you should have a cleaning kit. also did not damage finish. followed the instructions that where in the link. so no i didnt have to do that. granted not everyone has these tools just lying around...but they are easily obtained, not to mention USEFUL when working on things (like converying a saiga ). and seriously how hard was it to actually do? to me it was probably the easiest part of my conversion. is it alwys needed? no. but if you want low brass to run reliably it sure does help. i never thought id see the day when my saiga would LOVE winchester universal (runs it perfectly) also runs mgnum slugs, buck shot, pretty much anything. like i said a reduced spring will work just seems like pain to swap springs ech time you want to swap ammo. it so much easier to reach up click the dial, and carry on.

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How is a reduced recoil spring more of a "voodoo gadget" than an after market plug? Personally, I think that they are both viable alternatives to making permanent changes to your gun. Futhermore, not everyone has the money to pay a gunsmith or the ability/tools to make those permanent changes. It took a reduced recoil spring to make my gun cycle low brass and all I have to do to put my gun back to it's factory configuration is quickly change out the plug and spring.

 

I say get the reduced recoil spring and try it out. It's only a few bucks.

"quickly change out the plug and spring" how quickly we talkin? surely not as quick as changing the settings on your gas plug? :haha: im teasing

if youre only going to stick with one type of ammo for long periods of time. then the spring is a perfectly suitable option, and like you said its not an expensive route. i just opted for a more perminant solution. i just want my saiga sshooting whatever whenever

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