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Surface rust in gas system


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Its been pretty humid where I live for the past couple weeks, and after taking my guns out for a routine cleaning, I noticed that my AK-47 magazines have some spotty surface rust, along with the gas block and gas tube on my S-.308. I scrubbed out the gas system with solvent and a shotgun brush, wiped the rest down, rescrubbed the barrel, then put a light coat of oil over the whole thing. The bore is perfectly allright, but I was just wondering how hard it is to keep rust out once its taken hold. Thanks.

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I wet everything with synthetic motor oil, and then wipe NOT QUITE dry. Also a bucket of 'closet dry' or whatever it's called at your local grocery store/K-Mart/WallyWorld in your gunsafe will stop any rusting. If You don't have a gunsafe or simular, one of the heavy plastic wardrobe bags that are made to hang in a closet will work fine. Just store the rifles in there with the 'closet dry' (dessicant)

 

G O B

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Another thing you can try is Birchwood Casey "SHEATH" its a spray on oil made for rust inhibition... its light, and coats well.. might wanna give that a try... I use it religiously on all my guns, when I get done cleaning, before I put them up for any amount of time.

 

 

:smoke:

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Rust in the gas system brings one thing to my mind what ammo are you using and is it corrosive? I'm into C&R guns and surplus ammo so forgive me if i'm wrong. All my Saiga's are lubed up with moly inside the recievers, trigger sear and gas system too. Once you moly it up and run the action to work it in its a different gun. Even the trigger becomes awesome too with just a lube. All my guns have moly in them thats bolt actions, pistols, revolvers and semi-auto rifles. It stays were you put it and stays wet too ready to rock n roll at anytime even after a long storage its ready to go. Using moly prevents all friction, all wear and galling too. Its the best lube on the planet for any metal!!!!!!! UKP

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Well, I'm using Australian .308 surplus, and last I heard, it was non-corrosive. I chalk it up to the high humiduty in my house. By the way, what kind of lube you say is good for metal? Moly is it? What brand do I buy and where do I buy it? Thanks.

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You should be able to find a Moly based lubricant at any hardware store. I know that the local Harbor Freight has it here.

 

By the way, I'm pretty sure that there isn't ANY corrosive 308 out there. The 308 cartridge came into being after everyone stopped using Mercuric-primers (the corrosive agent in corrosive ammunintion). As always I could be wrong, but if it's modern made, I doubt it will be corrosive.

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I have sealed cans of corrosive chinese .308. I have recently seen some other corrosive .308 surplus on the market, and have a freind who had replace the barrel on his M1-A because he too believed all .308 was noncorrosive and didn't clean carefully enough after shooting some surplus which did turn out to be corrosive. Most .308 is noncorrosive, but not all . so be carefull. :eek: He could've bought two saigas for what it cost to rebarrel the M1-A :sadam:

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I get my Moly from www.mcmastercarr.com go to the site and search for anti-seize then halfway down the page there's a moly anti-seize in a premium blend it has a higher percentage of moly in it. I use a moly anti-seize in all my guns.

UKP

 

I trust no ammo as non corrosive no matter what it says or who made it. I clean every gun right after shooting it and i go thru the same ritual as if it was corrosive ammo just to be safe!!!!! Not sorry!!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I get my Moly from www.mcmastercarr.com go to the site and search for anti-seize then halfway down the page there's a moly anti-seize in a premium blend it has a higher percentage of moly in it. I use a moly anti-seize in all my guns.

UKP

 

Since you seem to know your way around lubricants, I got a few questions. What about the Moly-graphite grease you can find in the auto parts store? its the only moly I can find in town, do you think graphite is good or bad in an action? I should still get the moly penetration, right? I think I saw somethng about graphite can wear aluminum, (like a PA63, P1, or some lightweight shotgun receivers.) so would graphite be a poor choice in an all-steel action? I've heard of people using dry graphite for hunting rifles in sub-zero.

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the inside of your gas tube will rust no matter what type of ammo you use.

 

thats why you need to keep it lubed up.

 

i coat all my guns with light coat of remoil(i know it's not the best but it works)inside and out before putting them in the cabinet.

 

the best bet is to get a dehumidifier like for a gunsafe. you can use them in guncabinets also.

 

i was having surface rust problems before i installed a simple 18 inch flourescent light fixture in my guncabinet. took about 5 minutes to install.

 

it circulates enough warm dry air to keep the humidity out. helped out alot. haven't had a single surface rust problem since then, if you don't count the time my ak got handled by someone with sweaty hands and didn't wipe it clean.

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A quick note on Moly lube...

I use it too and it's great! A gunsmith told me to be sure not to let any get on the ammunition or in the chamber. The heat and pressure of firing can bond it to the case and chamber causing a jam. He recommended using it almost everyplace except the magazine.

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Moly coated ballistic tipped...

 

he prolly does the moly coating himself of them eh??? I havent seen any commercial moly coated BT rounds yet... doesnt mean that they arent out there, though..

 

 

 

:smoke:

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