Shruggerxd 0 Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 (edited) Hey guys I need your help with keeping my muzzle brake in position. I have the JT comp brake and the barrel nut from chaos. The problem I am having is that no matter how hard I tighten the two together I can't get the brake to stay in position, it still rotates with multiple shots. Am I a spaz and just doing it wrong or is there something else I can do to get it to stay put. Any advice would be great. Thanks guys. (gratuitous pics) Edited October 7, 2010 by Shruggerxd Quote Link to post Share on other sites
psl sniper 963 Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 have you tride locktite? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Red loc-tite and tighten the shit out of them. If it'll keep the head-bolts tight in my 'vette, it'll work here. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
purduepurdy 18 Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 You don't even have to tighten it that hard. Put red locktite on it and let it sit for 12-24 hours. Will almost be impossible to get off w/o heating it, no nut needed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 You don't even have to tighten it that hard. Put red locktite on it and let it sit for 12-24 hours. Will almost be impossible to get off w/o heating it, no nut needed Have you ever felt the barrel after 100 rounds? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
purduepurdy 18 Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Nope can't say I have, not that dumb, have you? Just working from experience, bud. Have roughly 400 slugs through my JTE, non door breacher type though. I'm sure I could get her hot, but you would still have to run a screw driver or something through it to still pop the thread locker. Plus not having the nut on there allows for more threads in the brake. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shruggerxd 0 Posted October 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Thanks for the replies guys. Isn't the point of the barrel nut to not need thread locker. I guess I will have to stop bitching out and just really wrench it on as tight as possible and maybe resort to thread locker. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
purduepurdy 18 Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Yea on the nut, I know my JTE fits snuggly in there though. Just wondering if having the nut on there creates to much slack/lack of threads for the brake? Threadlocker is cheap, give her a try, but just let it sit before you go shoot it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 I'd like to preface this by saying that I'm not calling anyone stupid. I'm just saying that after JUST 100 rounds (which you can go through pretty quick) I've felt the heat coming off the barrel... And heat "un-locks" the thread locker... So, with the MINIMAL amount of logic one could imagine that if you got the barrel hot enough, then the thread locker could fail and the vibrations (you know, the ones caused by firing the weapon) could cause the muzzle brake or flash hider to begin to loosen up... True it probably won't ever happen, but then again, it could... As far as not using a jam-nut and only thread locker, uh, you have to get the fastener that is used with the thread-locker tight in the first place. But what do I know? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kingjoey 5 Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 I hate to sound ghetto, but have you tried a little Teflon tape? Brakes usually work loose easier if there is clearance between the threads, teflon tape will fill that clearance better than Loctite will. That sounds really dumb, but if I had to come up with a MacGuyver-type solution to the problem that would be it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DogMan 2,343 Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 My gut tells me you should avoid the red loctite. I don't think you need it anyway. I took a Tromix shark brake off that was only put on with blue or purple (non-permanent) loctite and it still wasn't exactly easy to get off. I'll bet that's all you need and it may save you some grief if you want to take it off again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kingjoey 5 Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 My gut tells me you should avoid the red loctite. I don't think you need it anyway. I took a Tromix shark brake off that was only put on with blue or purple (non-permanent) loctite and it still wasn't exactly easy to get off. I'll bet that's all you need and it may save you some grief if you want to take it off again. Yeah, red Loctite is considered "permanent" on fasteners over 3/4" diameter, I would avoid using it on a brake unless you want the fight of your life if you decide to take it off later. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 My gut tells me you should avoid the red loctite. I don't think you need it anyway. I took a Tromix shark brake off that was only put on with blue or purple (non-permanent) loctite and it still wasn't exactly easy to get off. I'll bet that's all you need and it may save you some grief if you want to take it off again. Yeah, red Loctite is considered "permanent" on fasteners over 3/4" diameter, I would avoid using it on a brake unless you want the fight of your life if you decide to take it off later. Guys seriously, it's not THAT hard to break, especially with all the heat cycles it will endure. I mean, c'mon, all you need is a 2x4, a vise, the tool for the brake, the gun, and a bit of leverage... OP, if the red loc-tite scares you then use the blue, but I can't suggest that as I wouldn't stand by it working all the time without loosening up. If you want to try it feel free. Oh, and the teflon tape will work as well, probably be cheaper too... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stansplace 414 Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 I hate to sound ghetto, but have you tried a little Teflon tape? Brakes usually work loose easier if there is clearance between the threads, teflon tape will fill that clearance better than Loctite will. That sounds really dumb, but if I had to come up with a MacGuyver-type solution to the problem that would be it. Teflon tape is a lubricant and not really suited for this application. Barrel temperature does reach the point where even red loctite will let go. The ideal solution would be a crush washer, but I am unsure where to get one in that diameter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stansplace 414 Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 My gut tells me you should avoid the red loctite. I don't think you need it anyway. I took a Tromix shark brake off that was only put on with blue or purple (non-permanent) loctite and it still wasn't exactly easy to get off. I'll bet that's all you need and it may save you some grief if you want to take it off again. Yeah, red Loctite is considered "permanent" on fasteners over 3/4" diameter, I would avoid using it on a brake unless you want the fight of your life if you decide to take it off later. 400 degrees is the magic number to remove the red loctite. If you heat any nut with red loctite on it to this temperature, it will come off pretty easily. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stansplace 414 Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 My gut tells me you should avoid the red loctite. I don't think you need it anyway. I took a Tromix shark brake off that was only put on with blue or purple (non-permanent) loctite and it still wasn't exactly easy to get off. I'll bet that's all you need and it may save you some grief if you want to take it off again. Yeah, red Loctite is considered "permanent" on fasteners over 3/4" diameter, I would avoid using it on a brake unless you want the fight of your life if you decide to take it off later. Guys seriously, it's not THAT hard to break, especially with all the heat cycles it will endure. I mean, c'mon, all you need is a 2x4, a vise, the tool for the brake, the gun, and a bit of leverage... OP, if the red loc-tite scares you then use the blue, but I can't suggest that as I wouldn't stand by it working all the time without loosening up. If you want to try it feel free. Oh, and the teflon tape will work as well, probably be cheaper too... Teflon tape is not really a sealant, this is a common misconception. It is designed to use with cast iron pipe which has a tapered thread. The tape lubricates the thread to allow the tapered part of the pipe to thread further into the coupling/joint and create an interference fit which is what actually seals the joint. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DrGonZo 157 Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 I would just use Guntite (blue locktite). Its what I use on my all my gun screws and bolts. Since I started using it, I haven't had anything fall apart or come loose, but it can still be removed with a little elbow grease. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 My gut tells me you should avoid the red loctite. I don't think you need it anyway. I took a Tromix shark brake off that was only put on with blue or purple (non-permanent) loctite and it still wasn't exactly easy to get off. I'll bet that's all you need and it may save you some grief if you want to take it off again. Yeah, red Loctite is considered "permanent" on fasteners over 3/4" diameter, I would avoid using it on a brake unless you want the fight of your life if you decide to take it off later. Guys seriously, it's not THAT hard to break, especially with all the heat cycles it will endure. I mean, c'mon, all you need is a 2x4, a vise, the tool for the brake, the gun, and a bit of leverage... OP, if the red loc-tite scares you then use the blue, but I can't suggest that as I wouldn't stand by it working all the time without loosening up. If you want to try it feel free. Oh, and the teflon tape will work as well, probably be cheaper too... Teflon tape is not really a sealant, this is a common misconception. It is designed to use with cast iron pipe which has a tapered thread. The tape lubricates the thread to allow the tapered part of the pipe to thread further into the coupling/joint and create an interference fit which is what actually seals the joint. This situation does not call for a sealant. It calls for an interference fit... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
beerasaurus 9 Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 I use a quick wrap of black electrical tape. It's basically invisible and I have never had anything so much as shift, much less spin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stansplace 414 Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 My gut tells me you should avoid the red loctite. I don't think you need it anyway. I took a Tromix shark brake off that was only put on with blue or purple (non-permanent) loctite and it still wasn't exactly easy to get off. I'll bet that's all you need and it may save you some grief if you want to take it off again. Yeah, red Loctite is considered "permanent" on fasteners over 3/4" diameter, I would avoid using it on a brake unless you want the fight of your life if you decide to take it off later. Guys seriously, it's not THAT hard to break, especially with all the heat cycles it will endure. I mean, c'mon, all you need is a 2x4, a vise, the tool for the brake, the gun, and a bit of leverage... OP, if the red loc-tite scares you then use the blue, but I can't suggest that as I wouldn't stand by it working all the time without loosening up. If you want to try it feel free. Oh, and the teflon tape will work as well, probably be cheaper too... Teflon tape is not really a sealant, this is a common misconception. It is designed to use with cast iron pipe which has a tapered thread. The tape lubricates the thread to allow the tapered part of the pipe to thread further into the coupling/joint and create an interference fit which is what actually seals the joint. This situation does not call for a sealant. It calls for an interference fit... Seriously............. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
purduepurdy 18 Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 Haha, wow this got out of control. Try the blue loctite, if that doesn't work try the red. I don't plan on taking mine off and can say that it holds. If I do I plan on taking a butane torch to just heat the brake, not the barrel. Stick a large screw driver through the brake and pop that beast off. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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