72Stick 0 Posted October 30, 2010 Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
psl sniper 963 Posted October 31, 2010 Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 (edited) if you go check out the reloading section of the forums, youll find some usefull loads. Edited October 31, 2010 by psl sniper 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted October 31, 2010 Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 I reload for the Saiga-12 and saiga-20, its very hard to make shells cheaper then the cheap bulk loads. The best savings is on slugs and buck shot, but the only way you can do that is to cast your own projectiles. Cast buck shot can be hardened and you can play with the alloy to suit your needs. Cast slugs kinda suck past 40 yards. I modified a Lee 7/8 slug by cutting the drive key portion off, seems to work the same but casts faster. Good crimps are important when reloading for the Saiga. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frosty 9 Posted October 31, 2010 Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 I reload for both of my Saiga 12's. What may work in my shotgun may NOT work in your shot gun. All of what I have loaded is on a MEC Mk. 5 junior. (love that little press) I have been able to get both of my S12's to run reliably with 7/8 oz. of shot and BETWEEN 16.7 to 18.1 grains of TiteWAD. I can get 460 loaded shells out of one 25 lb bag of shot. This 7/8 oz. load breaks clays just fine. Yes, this is a very light load and I got it from Lymans Shotshell Reloading book. The Max load for this powder "TiteWAD" is printed on the front of the powder bottle. I just backed off one grain "powder bushing" and reduced my shot load. It works and I have NO SIGNS OF OVER PRESSURE. I started a thread : http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=59026 , where I go through my experience with my S12's. I have used Cheddite primers and Winchester primers. The Cheddite primers are hotter burning. There is a VERY noticeable difference in recoil with the EXACT same load of powder. The Winchester primers worked just fine they were softer recoiling. I have decided to use the Cheddite primers because since this is an auto loading shotgun it needs all the pressure it can get. Although it has worked just fine with the softer stuff too. So I know it will run with either loaded primer..............cool.........very cool. If you follow my path of doing what I did and use the Factory 5 rounder as a base line then should be good to go. BE SAFE. TAKE YOUR TIME. GET A RELOADING BOOK.......................READ IT. When reloading for the S12 you must check the rear trunnion for contact. A little contact (paint coming off is just fine) , dents and smashed metal is not. Regards Frosty Quote Link to post Share on other sites
72Stick 0 Posted October 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 (edited) Thanks, Frosty! The Hodgdon TiteWad looks very interesting. The price is even lower than Red Dot. I was looking for a starting point to begin my load testing and a less expensive powder/shot combo is a bonus. I'm wondering if 7/8 or 1 oz. #8 shot will be enough to put down steel targets. I'm not too worried about clays. Even one bb on clay counts as a hit in tactical shotgun. Steel... not so much. Some of the stages have several steel poppers and/or plates that need solid hits to put them down. I bought this shotgun new in March. I tested it with several loads while it was stock. Once I new it was reliable I converted it myself. After the conversion it started having issues with FTE. I tried all the tricks to make it run reliably after I converted it. I re-contoured the face of the Tapco hammer and the bottom of the bolt carrier. I rounded the edge of the extractor notch in the chamber and buffed every thing that moved. So I can load a mag on a closed bolt I re-contoured the bottom of the bolt. None of these mods seemed to help. I was still having 1 or 2 FTE out of every mag. I talked to another Saiga competitor at my second match using my Saiga jam-omatic. He told me you gotta open the ports to make it reliable. He was right. I fashioned a press out of a piece of flat steel and anchored it to the wall to remove the gas block. That sucker was hard to remove. I drilled the 3 ports out to 3/32nds and used a shotgun cleaning patch loop with a piece of medium grade wet/dry sandpaper on the end of the rod to polish out the burs in the barrel. I chucked it up in my Makita drill and marked off the distance to the ports with a piece of tap on the rod. After drilling out the ports and polishing the burs the gun came alive! It eats anything I pick up at WM under $5 a box. 72stick Edited October 31, 2010 by 72Stick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frosty 9 Posted October 31, 2010 Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 (edited) My advice would be to load some test rounds with different combinations of powder and shot. Load some 1 oz. loads with TiteWAD and your selected primer. Load some 7/8 oz. loads with TiteWAD and your selected primer. This 7/8 oz. load may not have enough push on steel but try it any way with more than one combination. I was very surprised about just the primer change and the resulting feel of the loads. Again it may just be my guns BUT this happened in two different S12's so there is some proof. Then try different powders to see which will give you the velocity to reliably knock down steel. It will take a little while but it will pay off in the end. The Cheddite primers do run hotter BUT that point may be worthless if I change powders. Order your primers from PowderValley.com. They have the Cheddite primers at $25.00 for a 1,000. If your into 3 gun then order the 5,000 case. I hope I have helped you. Please keep in mind both of my S12's are unconverted. The only change I have done is install a Tapco adjustable stock and pistol grip WITHOUT converting. My guns run and that is what I wanted. I know many would opine that it needs to be in its original form but it feels good to me. Proof of how good they run in three gun unconverted is here: you will notice that his S12 is unconverted. Mine is set up this way. In another video he has fully converted his S12. I doubt he is using a 7/8 oz. load but you never know. Pay attention to how far his hulls are being pitched. His gas setting maybe wide open or just a hot , fast but light load that is really kicking them out there. This video by the way is why I decided to leave both of my S12's alone (trigger group and so forth). Both of mine run with the same reliability................but with reloads. Regards Frosty Edited October 31, 2010 by Frosty Quote Link to post Share on other sites
72Stick 0 Posted November 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2010 (edited) Frosty, Your advice really makes sense. Also, your decision not to modify your S12s is one of the reasons I like this platform so much. It’s not as modular as an AR, but you can still “have it your way”. Like the AR, there are many options for this gun. I personally like mine the way I have it configured. Other folks have different ideas about how they want their S12s setup. In my book, that’s great! And then there’s the after market folks giving us all those options to choose from and that’s a win, win if I ever saw one. 72stick Edited November 1, 2010 by 72Stick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.