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FCG- Purpose of the sear?


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I am finishing the concersion on a .308 and it won't fire. The FCG is a Tapco G-2 and it has been ground and it cycles. The problem is when the bolt is pulled back both hooks grab as normal but the sear is also latching on the hammer (in the cocked position). Is this the way it is supposed to cycle? When the trigger is pulled the sear keeps the hammer from falling. If I push back on the sear the hammer rests solely on the double hooks and when the triogger is pulled the hammer releases fine. The sear is holding my hammer back every time you cycle the action???? Any ideas?

RSH

Edited by rscotth
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when you release the trigger the sear should release. If not it sounds like you have disconnect spring troubles. I have never used the G2, but on the FSE trigger group I used in all of my conversions I had to install a disconnect spring because one did not come with the FCG. I have also heard the the factory disconect spring on the .308 is very stout and may need either trimming or replaced with an original AK disconect spring.

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I did trim the spring. Maybe not enough. When the bolt is pulled back the sear holds the hammer not the trigger hooks. So the sear latching on the hammer when cocked is correct?

RSH

Edited by rscotth
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on my 762 39, the sear ( i mistakenly called it a disconnector in a previous post in the .308 forum) has a small gap between it and the hammer. check the pics in the .308 forum, sounds like the trigger is too far forward in the reciver.

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On AK weapons the sear is a FA part ONLY. The part that you are having trouble with is the disconnector. It sounds like the cutout in the reciever in front of the trigger is too tight, and does not allow the trigger to return completly forward and release the disconnector. Most of the after market triggers are thicker and require a little dremmel work on the trigger hole.

 

G O B

 

P.S. The purpose of the disconector is to catch the hammer and hold it untill it is securely caught by the trigger ,as the trigger returns to it's forward position. This makes the action SEMI auto, one shot per trigger pull.

Edited by G O B
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Man, this is killing me! The trigger goes as far forward as allowed. The problem is when it is cocked the "disconnector" hooks on the back of the hammer. As a result the trigger does not even have any pressure on it because it isn't touching the double hook. When the trigger is pulled the disconnector just cycles on the spring because going forward there is more pressure exerted. If I take the pressure off the hammer and push the disconnector toward the rear of the rifle and let the hammer go forward and rest on the double hook, the trigger will release the hammer ok. I don't have enough experience/ knowledge of the trigger cycle to know what is wrong.

Is the disconnector just suppose to put pressure on the back of the hammer or physically hook. I sincerly appreciate all yopur help with this matter. Please bear with me as I figure this out.

RSH

Edited by rscotth
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untitled.bmp

A. Retainer Pin or Wire pin

B. Hammer Pin (Axel)

C. Trigger Pin (Axel)

D. Trigger

E. Trigger Spring

F. Disconnector or SEAR

G. Hammer

H. Main Spring or Hammer Spring

 

 

I didn't cut a hole for the trigger. I did cut a notch for the second hook on the G-2. I really don't see any way to change the location as the fcg is utilizing the factory hole in the receiver. The one where the pin goes through and holds the BHO and sheppard spring

Edited by rscotth
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The disconector is supposed to hook onto the hammer when the trigger is pulled. When you realese the trigger it should rock back enough to release the hammer and the trigger itself should then grab the hammer.

 

When you release your trigger does it move back forwards as it should? If so then I still think you need to try a new disconnector spring. Also are you using the hammer that came with your FCG or your stock hammer? Im not sure if it would make a difference but you have to look at all of your variables, because many people here have used the G2 trigger group without issue.

 

You can get a spring from tapco for about 5.00 but then you have to pay shipping. If you decide that is what you need let me know and I may have one I can send you if you pay the shipping. PM me if you need it.

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My G-2 kit came with a small "barrel" washer, that held the trigger/sear/sear spring together for installation. I do not see that in your picture. Without using it, there maybe enough "slope" between the axis-pin to prevent it from operating correctly.

 

You can see that part in this pic:

 

G2FCG.jpg

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Well the problem is definately in the FCG from Tapco. :ded: I am going to buy one of the Redstar adjustable FCG's and go from there. jtoddellis- I do appreciate the spring offer but I feel the problem is behind the whole FCG. I hope to be able to return the favor in the future. :super: Will let everyone know what happans just as soon as I figure it out myself.

RSH

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You are not alone when it comes to confusion with the Tapco FCG. I know it is an excellent product, but I am having the exact same issue. The disconector engages the hammer but does not disengage when I pull the trigger. I have not had much time to tweak on it since. Now that someone else has brought up the issue I may have to start troubleshooting. I was (& possibly am still) convinced that it was an installation error on my part (2am install).

I am using all of the factory holes & have not had to drill any new ones at this point. Time will tell.

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I would like to say I'm glad someone else has experienced this problem but the whole situation really sucks. There are too many mods to get the Tapco to work. Ya know with the spring hole and grinding the hammer. I have lost interest lately and haven't ordered the RedStar FCG yet. I feel that the adjustable RS will cure the problem as there really isn't much to the FCG as far as function. When I get back to this I will post the results or even e-mail you directly. I hope you will do the same. Good luck.

RSH

Edited by rscotth
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  • 2 weeks later...

Not so fast with the RSA trigger. I had the same problem you are having with Tapco. Now RSA makes an excellent product BUT, when I spoke with RSA on the phone they told me that their adjustable trigger was never made for the 308, but was made for the 762x39 Romania AK and that in order to fit in a 308 it has to be very finely tuned from the factory& if your speck's are out let's say on the high side& their's is also we have a no go. SO their solution is for you to send the whole gun to them and they will adjust it for free plus a $30.00 return shipping charge and remember you have to pay to have it shipped to them apprx. $30. I got a refund from them and they where honest and I put a Tapco trigger in and replace the sear spring from the local hardware store and wound up with a 1.5 lb trigger pull. This goes also according to RSA for the 223. Most don't have a problem but I did and their instruction will warn you of this.

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  • 3 weeks later...
So you replaced the whole FCG? Did you come to a conclusion as FCG didn't operate correctly? Almost sounds like spring may be the culprit. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

RSH

 

Can you post a pic of what it looks like when its stuck? That may help.

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  • 4 months later...
I am finishing the concersion on a .308 and it won't fire. The FCG is a Tapco G-2 and it has been ground and it cycles. The problem is when the bolt is pulled back both hooks grab as normal but the sear is also latching on the hammer (in the cocked position). Is this the way it is supposed to cycle? When the trigger is pulled the sear keeps the hammer from falling. If I push back on the sear the hammer rests solely on the double hooks and when the triogger is pulled the hammer releases fine. The sear is holding my hammer back every time you cycle the action???? Any ideas?

RSH

 

 

I had the same problem with my conversion and the G2 but here is what i had to do. After i made the second cut out for the double hook fcg i put it all together and had excatly the same problem but then i trimmed the space between the cutouts and the problem went away. Now everything works just fine.

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As far as the purpose of the sear goes it catches the hammer when the trigger is in firing position. If you fired the gun and kept holding the trigger without the sear the hammer would follow the bolt as it was putting next round into the chamer. I can't tell if it would fire as a full auto but a gunsmith would probably be able to answer that question.

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