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Auto Plug Instructional Video.


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I gave a plus one for the vid. After having read some of the threads about that plug, it really makes more sense now.

 

Was the S12 used an untouched as fas as gas work goes, stock, from the factory gas port S12?

Was it correct, or a 'vodka special'?

How does that same S12 operate with the stock gas plug on either of the two settings?

 

I understand its only an instructional video, but i'm sure inquiring minds want to know.

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The video is great and answered many questions I had after reading all the other threads on the plug. As I understand it, it is set it and forget it. If so, that is outstanding. My question is, will it work for a 3 hole IZ-109 that can cycle slug/buck on setting 1 flawlessly, but not so much with bulk low brass on setting 2? Is this the plug for me?

 

 

RAA 19" IZ-109

Converted by Don Quinell at Don's Gun Shop, Fort Myers, Florida

3 clear gas holes (no restrictions)

replaced the factory puck for a KA puck

reduced power hammer spring

Bolt, carrier, FCG all polished

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This is exactly what I did when I first got my plug. Tuned it 'til it ran the crappy wally world packs, and forgot about it.

 

 

 

+1 for the vid, Haven't had a single problem with my plug. The only thing my gun still won't cycle is rubber buckshot :lol:

 

 

The video is great and answered many questions I had after reading all the other threads on the plug. As I understand it, it is set it and forget it. If so, that is outstanding. My question is, will it work for a 3 hole IZ-109 that can cycle slug/buck on setting 1 flawlessly, but not so much with bulk low brass on setting 2? Is this the plug for me?

 

 

RAA 19" IZ-109

Converted by Don Quinell at Don's Gun Shop, Fort Myers, Florida

3 clear gas holes (no restrictions)

replaced the factory puck for a KA puck

reduced power hammer spring

Bolt, carrier, FCG all polished

 

I'd be wary. If I remember right, Tac-47 has said if your gun won't cycle low brass on setting 2 you could have problems with the Autoplug.

 

Mine also wouldn't cycle bulk packs on setting 2 when I first converted it. I then drilled my 3 ports out to 3/32 and it ate EVERYTHING (bulk packs on setting 2). My FCG hadn't even been reprofiled/polished yet.

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This is exactly what I did when I first got my plug. Tuned it 'til it ran the crappy wally world packs, and forgot about it.

 

 

 

+1 for the vid, Haven't had a single problem with my plug. The only thing my gun still won't cycle is rubber buckshot :lol:

 

 

The video is great and answered many questions I had after reading all the other threads on the plug. As I understand it, it is set it and forget it. If so, that is outstanding. My question is, will it work for a 3 hole IZ-109 that can cycle slug/buck on setting 1 flawlessly, but not so much with bulk low brass on setting 2? Is this the plug for me?

 

 

RAA 19" IZ-109

Converted by Don Quinell at Don's Gun Shop, Fort Myers, Florida

3 clear gas holes (no restrictions)

replaced the factory puck for a KA puck

reduced power hammer spring

Bolt, carrier, FCG all polished

 

I'd be wary. If I remember right, Tac-47 has said if your gun won't cycle low brass on setting 2 you could have problems with the Autoplug.

 

Mine also wouldn't cycle bulk packs on setting 2 when I first converted it. I then drilled my 3 ports out to 3/32 and it ate EVERYTHING (bulk packs on setting 2). My FCG hadn't even been reprofiled/polished yet.

 

have you shot much high brass/3" magnums and if so have you noticed any trunnion damage? Im still waiting on some comprehensive information on this subject. I keep hearing it works but ive yet to hear it works without damage using high power loads.

Edited by big-J
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[hijack]

 

sorry, but where is the host from? I can't place the accent and it driving me crazy?!?

 

[/hijack]

 

 

 

I too would like to see that same gun (tuned to function with bulk) run full auto 3" magnums - and then inspect the internals. I guess thats the real question, because if you can run everything from junk to the strongest stuff with not a hint of damage then its all good.

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I'd be wary. If I remember right, Tac-47 has said if your gun won't cycle low brass on setting 2 you could have problems with the Autoplug.

 

My gun wouldn't reliably cycle Winchester Universal with the factory plug on setting 2. But I was able to crank the AutoPulg down to the point where it would cycle the Winchester Universal. Is this a good thing? Only if the AutoPlug bleeds off the rest of the gas from the High Brass loads.

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This is exactly what I did when I first got my plug. Tuned it 'til it ran the crappy wally world packs, and forgot about it.

 

 

 

+1 for the vid, Haven't had a single problem with my plug. The only thing my gun still won't cycle is rubber buckshot :lol:

 

 

The video is great and answered many questions I had after reading all the other threads on the plug. As I understand it, it is set it and forget it. If so, that is outstanding. My question is, will it work for a 3 hole IZ-109 that can cycle slug/buck on setting 1 flawlessly, but not so much with bulk low brass on setting 2? Is this the plug for me?

 

 

RAA 19" IZ-109

Converted by Don Quinell at Don's Gun Shop, Fort Myers, Florida

3 clear gas holes (no restrictions)

replaced the factory puck for a KA puck

reduced power hammer spring

Bolt, carrier, FCG all polished

 

I'd be wary. If I remember right, Tac-47 has said if your gun won't cycle low brass on setting 2 you could have problems with the Autoplug.

 

Mine also wouldn't cycle bulk packs on setting 2 when I first converted it. I then drilled my 3 ports out to 3/32 and it ate EVERYTHING (bulk packs on setting 2). My FCG hadn't even been reprofiled/polished yet.

 

have you shot much high brass/3" magnums and if so have you noticed any trunnion damage? Im still waiting on some comprehensive information on this subject. I keep hearing it works but ive yet to hear it works without damage using high power loads.

 

 

I've shot a lot of high brass through it. Not so many magnums... maybe 50 3" 00 and 000?

 

I haven't noticed any trunnion damage. I've shot lots of Estate and Winchester slugs through it, and lots of Federal and Winchester 00. When I first got the Autoplug I sprayed stove paint over previous wear marks in the rear of the receiver (left the gun on setting 2 while firing a magazine full of slugs, derp!). I waited 'til it was dry then made sure it would come off with contact, so I hand-cycled it as aggressive as I could and sure enough, there were new marks in the paint.

 

 

If that is an accurate way to test it, I don't know and perhaps not :lol:. After spraying over it again and about 1500 rounds through it, I haven't seen anything remotely close in comparison to the scuff marks I made while hand-cycling it. Granted, a huge majority of those 1500 were Federal bulk. 500 or so were high brass, and mostly slugs at that. Blowing things to pieces never gets old...

 

Ymmv with the Autoplug though, of course :)

 

 

I'd be wary. If I remember right, Tac-47 has said if your gun won't cycle low brass on setting 2 you could have problems with the Autoplug.

 

My gun wouldn't reliably cycle Winchester Universal with the factory plug on setting 2. But I was able to crank the AutoPulg down to the point where it would cycle the Winchester Universal. Is this a good thing? Only if the AutoPlug bleeds off the rest of the gas from the High Brass loads.

 

Most definitely, if it bleeds the rest off then no worries eh?:smoke:

 

 

Edit: typo

Edited by Bullensmash
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I have only put slugs / 00 bucks through my current S12 (400 + or -). All shot 100% flawless on setting 1. They ejected about 4 feet in a good pile. I need to test it on Remington / Federal bulk pack on setting 2 next. I'm not going to touch the Winchester ammo.

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If you were able to tune a undergassed shotty so it is using all avaliable gas to cycle the lo brass cheap ammo it would seem to me that when you then shoot hi brass hi gas ammo it would be more apt to be overgassed to a certain extent.

 

If this is not the case, this is truly a miracle part for the saiga shottys.

Edited by waltham_41
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If you were able to tune a undergassed shotty so it is using all avaliable gas to cycle the lo brass cheap ammo it would seem to me that when you then shoot hi brass hi gas ammo it would be more apt to be overgassed to a certain extent.

 

If this is not the case, this is truly a miracle part for the saiga shottys.

 

When you tune your gun for lowbrass you are at the valves threshold for opening, when you change that pressure you actuate the valve and bleed excess pressure with the valve opining.

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I gave a plus one for the vid. After having read some of the threads about that plug, it really makes more sense now.

 

Was the S12 used an untouched as fas as gas work goes, stock, from the factory gas port S12?

Was it correct, or a 'vodka special'?

How does that same S12 operate with the stock gas plug on either of the two settings?

 

I understand its only an instructional video, but i'm sure inquiring minds want to know.

 

The gun is not a 2 hole gun, if you have a "Vodka Special" that will not cycle with any of the manual plugs, then the autoplug will not change the fact that your gun needs gas service. I have not and do not use the factory plug in this gun.

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After I watch the video, I see some of the shell being ejected much farer than the others also with much high degree of angle. Can this be the inconsistency of gas pressure in the system? What I think is if the auto plug releases access gas automatically, the pressure should be almost the same in the system. Then the shell should be ejected at almost the same distance, speed and angle. Tell me if I'm wrong because I really think your product is great and consider buying one.

 

 

Thank you :D

Edited by sadion
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After I watch the video, I see some of the shell being ejected much farer than the others also with much high degree of angle. Can this be the inconsistency of gas pressure in the system? What I think is if the auto plug releases access gas automatically, the pressure should be almost the same in the system. Then the shell should be ejected at almost the same distance, speed and angle. Tell me if I'm wrong because I really think your product is great and consider buying one.

 

 

Thank you :rolleyes:

 

Your 100% right, there is a inconsistency of gas pressure, when watching the video, you would see a inconsistency of rounds fired, and this is not to make your gun shoot high brass and low brass in some neat little pile next to eachother,, the plugs job is to bleed off excess pressure, however it does not change the fact that you are shooting high brass. I am not sure about the roll eys.. :rolleyes: so i wont comment..

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After I watch the video, I see some of the shell being ejected much farer than the others also with much high degree of angle. Can this be the inconsistency of gas pressure in the system? What I think is if the auto plug releases access gas automatically, the pressure should be almost the same in the system. Then the shell should be ejected at almost the same distance, speed and angle. Tell me if I'm wrong because I really think your product is great and consider buying one.

 

 

Thank you :rolleyes:

 

Your 100% right, there is a inconsistency of gas pressure, when watching the video, you would see a inconsistency of rounds fired, and this is not to make your gun shoot high brass and low brass in some neat little pile next to eachother,, the plugs job is to bleed off excess pressure, however it does not change the fact that you are shooting high brass. I am not sure about the roll eys.. :rolleyes: so i wont comment..

Back to my comment in the other thread,seeing that you are shooting different loads by different manufacturers that even the spent shells are of a different wieght and that alone would effect the distance off the ejected shells. I'm still neutral on this whole thing, but dang TAC is taking some heat from this. ETA I don't get the :rolleyes: either?

Edited by Fumes
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Actually I just want to put smily face next to the Thank you. I've no intention to cause any bad reputation about auto gas plug. I'm deffinately going to get one. But after I read many comments I'm getting confuse. So I think I would be better post comment for someone more knowledgeable to clear my curiosity.

 

Thank you :)

 

Finally, I google for the meaning of roll eye icon. I definitely do not mean whatever the roll eye icon suppose to mean. I just think it is like the same with smiley icon. Sorry about that. I will be more careful to put down any icon next time. :)

 

 

 

Edited by sadion
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I was one of the biggest skeptics on this plug. I got one and it did not work.

Why?

 

I did not install properly. So i called Keith all that was in his vid he was kind enough to explain on the phone. Plus all my other questions. Most have come up here. If you have any doubts just call.

 

I have no dog in this at all. Just would like to make easier for others.

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I was one of the biggest skeptics on this plug. I got one and it did not work.

Why?

 

I did not install properly. So i called Keith all that was in his vid he was kind enough to explain on the phone. Plus all my other questions. Most have come up here. If you have any doubts just call.

 

I have no dog in this at all. Just would like to make easier for others.

 

What is the specs on your S12?

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I have one of these plugs and want to start using it. How often and how do you clean it? Is it necessary to take it apart? Also, would there be a problem with putting a bit of anit-sieze compound on the threads to prevent the fusing of the plug to the gas block and to ease the removal?

Edited by doodi1
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On mine, after firing a number of rounds the screw starts to back itself out. Is there some obvious way to prevent this?

 

 

 

Blue Loctite.

 

A little dab goes a long way on the Autoplug. When I first got it I made the mistake of dousing mine with the blue stuff, and stripped the set screw trying to unscrew it (not just stripped, completely FUBAR) . I then had to cut the groove deeper with a Dremel to make it adjustable again. One might think it looks awful, I say it builds character. Still works just fine, too :)

 

:lol:

Edited by Bullensmash
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A question for Bullensmash and Bridis (attorneys at law?)

You guys say you cranked it down till it cycled.

I was wondering how much you had to crank it? How many degrees?

Mine came with instructions saying that it had been tuned to cycle most stuff. (I checked it and it turned out to be approximately two full 360 degree turns into the threads from removed.)

I have cranked it two more full 360 degree turns (4 total) and it still won't cycle some brands.

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