AK won't go into battery or trigger reset

[evi1joe 1]

After every shot, I had to eject the next one (OR sometimes I could just pull the bolt back a bit and let it slam forward) to get it to fire. Otherwise it would do nothing (the trigger didn't even reset). It JUST CAME BACK from a top AK gunsmith...it DID have a bunch of grease or gunk in it (whitish to very light blue stuff). Should I have cleaned it first? I assumed it'd clean itself after a few rounds. I did take out the carrier and the bolt came out.

 

Could I have reinstalled the bolt incorrectly and caused this problem? I had a hard time getting it to go back in (will look online tonight for videos of how to put it back together and make sure mine is right...after I clean it).

 

It's NOT the magazine because I tried a PALM AK30 and a Circle 10...towards the end, it was happening less and less--not sure I had ANY problems with the last mag at all. I'm just flustered because I've never had an AK jam, much less one worth $1000.

 

Any ideas?

 

(It's an Arsenal SGL20 that's had the barrel shortened with a combined bolton gas-block-slash-sight...and holes drilled in the ultimak b/c "it was a little gassy." I was shooting PCI v-max AND hornady v-max AND brown bear HP and SP. I do think a few of the PCI v-max polymer tips came off the rounds...not sure if they went in the gun or in the mag or somewhere else--gotta look for that too.)

[stnls1911 55]

When I restored my Saiga I reused my hammer spring. I noticed one of the hooks that sits on the trigger had pushed inward toward the trigger. I was having similar problems till I bent the hook slightly outwards. I may be wrong, but I don't think the bolt can be reinstalled improperly. If I am wrong someone please correct me.

[evi1joe 1]

I'll check the hooks. Thanks.

[308SAIGA 55]

What did your smith do to it? What work? This sounds like a headspace issue... If you put the bolt in and it comes out when you tug or pull on it, then I would say you did not put it in correctly, when you install it you can not remove it without twisting it (turning) the bolt....

[storm1 2]

im no expert, but i had the same problem "trigger wont reset" it was the hammer spring, i installed it upsidedown by accident, duh! i reinstalled it the right way problem solved. hope this helps.

Edited December 15, 2010 by storm1

[evi1joe 1]

He installed the bolton-gas-block-front sight, shortened the barrel and pinned an FSC47 on it, and drilled some holes in the ultimak-gas-tube because "it was a little gassy."

 

UPDATE:

Okay, here's what's happening. When I fire the gun and hold the trigger to the rear after it cycles, THEN I release the trigger to let it reset, but it's NOT resetting...IF I give it a little push, then it resets, but by itself, it seems not to want to reset. There is a slight bend in the krebs retainer plate, but I don't think that's causing it. Any idea what it could be--I'll look at the springs later to make sure they're right.

Edited December 15, 2010 by jflow25@gmail.com

[stnls1911 55]

Check to make sure your pistol grip is not contacting the trigger. I had to dremel about a 1/4" off my saw grip because the corners were keeping the trigger from fully resetting.

[physicsnerd 139]

Did you call the smith? I'd be curious to see what he says. It really sucks to have that happen. Hopefully it is something simple and easy to fix.

 

PM incoming with a few other questions.

[Stansplace 414]

Sometimes the trigger rubs the receiver where the trigger enters the receiver. Look at the space between the trigger itself and the hole where it enters the receiver.

[evi1joe 1]

STNLS1911 FOR THE WIN!!!

My ergo grip was catching on the top-side-edge of the trigger and not letting it reset forward. This makes perfect sense because I put the ergo grip on AFTER I got the gun back--the only change I made; that explains why it shot fine during the two test fires the smith did (before and after the parkerizing).

THANKS so much!! I was just looking up taking the fire control group out and reinstalling it--now I just have to cut/file away some rubber.

 

 

Stansplace--the trigger sure doesn't have a lot of wiggle room between it and the receiver...I suppose that's good to keep crud out, but man, it does look like a tight fit.

[Stansplace 414]

Glad you figured it out, that's what makes this board so great.

[bohound 281]

Pics of the finished product???

[physicsnerd 139]

This is great to hear!!

 

I too, would love to see pics!

[stnls1911 55]

Glad I could help jflow I joined Saiga 12 for insight myself; I never thought I would be able to help someone else out though

[storm1 2]

yes post some please that is reward for forum who help!

[evi1joe 1]

The v-tac light mount is too high (even though I can see the top 1/5th of the sight post), so it looks like I'll have to spend the $$ for a vltor offset.

pics-->

 

 

[stnls1911 55]

jflow, what buttstock are you using? BTW, that is a nice Arsenal you have

[evi1joe 1]

It's just a bulgarian (romanian?) push-button...with the US Made grenade-launcher-copy recoil pad on it--though it isn't necessary; the FSC47 and the wire stock absorb all the recoil.

I'm going to put tubing OR 550 paracord on the wire-folder soon....though I have the cheek-piece wire mount as well--not sure if I'm going to use it or sell it. I tried to site her in at 100yds yesterday, but using various ammo and other issues kept me at a 6-8" group. I'd like to get that down to a 3-4" group.

 

Anyone know how low or high I'd be at 10, 25, and 50yrds with a 100yd zero?

 

NOTE: I recognize that the Eotech looks giant and silly up there--but I love the reticle and prefer it to the standard T1...will be moving it back to just behind the rear-sight base when I get the new Gen II TWS dog-leg.

Edited December 15, 2010 by jflow25@gmail.com

[stnls1911 55]

Should be pretty close if you sight in following this link http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=60165 Hope this helps.

[bohound 281]

Stunning work.

 

I'm sold... Can I buy the Bolten gas block/sight combo and have my gunsmith do the work? I'd have to cut down 2" and attach the flash hider permanently, but that is a nice setup.

 

[evi1joe 1]

Yeah, I've seen the bolton gas-block or similar ones sold online. Fuller cut it down and did the perm-attached muzzle-brake as well. It really lightened up the front end (and as soon as I move the Eotech XPS back a bit, it'll be even lighter and faster). My only complaint is the lack of a cheek-weld, BUT I've heard tubing or paracord wrapping helps...and I do have a wire-cheek-piece that would help. It was evidently a bit gassy, so he put the holes in the ultimak...either way, it now shoots as soft or softer than my AR (which definitely had more muzzle-blast from what I could tell from sitting next to both of them with the spotting scope while my friend shot).

Edited December 16, 2010 by jflow25@gmail.com

[bohound 281]

Yeah, I've seen the bolton gas-block or similar ones sold online.

 

Great... Can you PM a link or maybe drop a hint where?

 

Fuller cut it down and did the perm-attached muzzle-brake as well. It really lightened up the front end (and as soon as I move the Eotech XPS back a bit, it'll be even lighter and faster).

 

Yup, that's my goal- functional.

 

 

My only complaint is the lack of a cheek-weld, BUT I've heard tubing or paracord wrapping helps...and I do have a wire-cheek-piece that would help.

 

Cheek weld:

 

 

 

Pipe insulation from wally world.

[stnls1911 55]

bohound, did you duracoat your Saiga?? It looks good That's a good idea with the pipe insulation!!

[bohound 281]

bohound, did you duracoat your Saiga?? It looks good That's a good idea with the pipe insulation!!

 

Thanks. Not yet, I'm waiting to do this gunsmith work, (why I'm trying to find this sight/gas block) then blast the whole thing, and then duracoat. This is OD Krylon Camoflage paint, $4.44, also from Wally world. I wanted to see what a solid color looked like vs. a pattern.