Definitive fix for mag latch pin?

[Mullet Man 2,114]

Maybe i'm not using the right search terms.

 

I came across one thread where a guy used a tiny brass screw in place after losing his but that was only temporary.

 

So, whats the 'once and for all' fix for this pin?

Gotta be a softer metal to mushroom the ends, or a roll pin expanded in place?

Edited December 18, 2010 by Mullet Man

[Paulyski 2,227]

Hammer, or smash one end with vice-grips, then reinsert beginning with the unmarred end, then press the marred end in?

 

I'd say tack weld 1 side with MIG really quick & quench immediately to avoid heat transferring to the spring, then dress it flat, but people could easily screw that up by tacking too much & not quenching quick enough, then the spring would be annealed.

[TonyRumore 1,332]

It's a chronic problem with the S-12. That's why Tromix conversions have the pins Tig welded in place.

 

Tony

[the mechanic 11]

I use a 3mm button head screw that is 20mm long and a 3mm locknut. The diameter of the head of the screw needs to be 4.6mm or less. They dont sell them that small so i just put the threaded end of the screw in my drill press and use a file to turn down the screw head. The locknut needs to have one of its flats filed , ground or sanded down enough so when you install it the hole in the locknut lines up with the hole for the mag latch pin. It's hard to explain but you'll understand if you try to do it. Replace the pin with the screw and locknut. Cut off the excess screw. Dont overtighten the screw or the mag latch will bind. It's not pretty but mine has lasted thousands of rounds without coming loose.

[whoizrob 3]

Looking into bomb proofing my Saiga as well and had a few ideas. I haven't pulled the mag release pin out but does anyone with a micrometer know what the dimensions are (length x diameter)? If I can figure that stuff out and find a viable solution I'll post my results here. Thanks!

 

Rob

[Mullet Man 2,114]

If i get a chance, i can mic it in the next day or two.

 

I'm not sure what i am going to do yet.

[Wade Pruetz 103]

Have you tried staking both sides? I have seen several newer S12s that are staked from the factory.

Edited December 23, 2010 by NinerRider

[Mullet Man 2,114]

I'll be honest here and say i do not know what "staking" means.

[evlblkwpnz 3,418]

It's hind of hard to explain, but I'll give it a shot. Staking is when you deform metal around or over a pin or screw in order to keep it in place. An excellent example of staking is on the carrier key screws or castle nut of an AR15 (Colt). You could use a small chisel, flat blade screwdriver, centerpunch, or modified punch. Do it at the edge of the hole that the pin goes into after the pin is in place. Be careful not to drive it out the other side. You may just want to alternate sides until you get it like you want it. My S12s all had a feeble attempt at staking when I got them. The Russians must have a 5 year old doing it.

 

Here ya go....

Edited December 23, 2010 by evlblkwpnz

[Mullet Man 2,114]

Oh ok, i've seen that before but never knew thats what it was called. Thanks for the info, not a bad idea.

[Mullet Man 2,114]

Looking into bomb proofing my Saiga as well and had a few ideas. I haven't pulled the mag release pin out but does anyone with a micrometer know what the dimensions are (length x diameter)? If I can figure that stuff out and find a viable solution I'll post my results here. Thanks!

 

Rob

 

 

Alright, my pin in particular measured out to .582" long and .117" thick.

With the Russians and these Saigas, i wouldnt be surprised if there were some variation from gun to gun.

[alistar 13]

It's a chronic problem with the S-12. That's why Tromix conversions have the pins Tig welded in place.

 

Tony

 

Interesting. I bought a Tromix S12 from Atlantic Firearms in early 2008 and the pin is not welded in place. Were some made without this mod?

[evlblkwpnz 3,418]

It's a chronic problem with the S-12. That's why Tromix conversions have the pins Tig welded in place.

 

Tony

 

Interesting. I bought a Tromix S12 from Atlantic Firearms in early 2008 and the pin is not welded in place. Were some made without this mod?

 

Ouch.... could it have been an imposter?

[alistar 13]

Well, Evil, I guess it is possible. Yet, everything else about the gun seems to be Tromix: I checked Tony's site and know there are imposters out there. OTOH, I have put about 7000 rounds through it shooting "combat" skeet and it functions on setting 1 with everything.

 

The pin did walk out partially on me and so I became aware of this problem. After some struggle, I found that the easiest way to get it lined up is to put in a magazine.

 

I love the gun (the receipt from Blaine says "tromix") so it is a pretty good imposter if so.

[whoizrob 3]

Did a bit of research and this is what I've come up with...

 

For those who would prefer not to stake their mag releases for whatevr reason there are very few non-mod type fixes but some fixes look like nice reverseable options. From the holy bible of modders (McMasterCarr) here are a few part numbers and a brief description.

 

C-clip (pn# 92735A120) 21/32" usable length (3/4 total length) diameter 3/16

This option would require you to drill out the mag release tab for a bit more clearance since the 3/16 diameter is .0705 bigger than the stock roll pin but would allow for easy removal but provide a solid hold on the tab

 

roll pin (pn# 95765A334) 5/8 length diameter 1/8

This is a heavy duty stainless application which is darn close to the stock roll pin size. It's a tad bit longer but the pin could be cut down to size if you wise. This pin is designed for harsh vibration environments and might resist walking better than a standard roll pin.

 

shoulder screw- 94035A522 length 1/2 for shoulder and 1/8 diameter

This seems like the best option. It's a socket head screw with a long shoulder of almost perfect diameter (minor widening of stock mage release tab needed) and allows for a nut to affixed on the opposite side. It would allof for easy disassembly with minimal fuss and require very little for the user to put one into service.

 

All parts listed above are reasonably cheap at no more than a few dollars each. Best part is McMasterCarr has no minimum order so buy as many or as few as you need. I am not sure which route I'm going to try but it's a start for you adventurous types out there. If you try any of these be sure to let us know how it worked out for you, I will when I get the rest of my to-do list done with my S12.

 

Cheers,

 

Rob

[Guns Are Great 140]

Great thread and advice needs to be in a problems/fix it section pinned!

[roachtron 49]

Mine looks as though it was staked, it has an inspection date of 11-10-11.

,

[Mullet Man 2,114]

My definitive fix ended up being an AK gas piston rivet from AK Builder. Trimmed about 1/16" off the OAL, tapped it in place and mushroomed the one side. Problem solved.

[TonyRumore 1,332]

It's a chronic problem with the S-12. That's why Tromix conversions have the pins Tig welded in place.

 

Tony

 

Interesting. I bought a Tromix S12 from Atlantic Firearms in early 2008 and the pin is not welded in place. Were some made without this mod?

 

I'm a bit late on this thread, but the early guns did not have the pins welded. After we had a couple walk out, we added the weld operation.

You don't want to weld the early EAA guns though. Those have the pin retained by the lever itself, not the flanges that are on the gun. If you weld those, it puts the lever in a serious bind.

[Samal 18]

I bought roll pin from Menards - 1/8x3/4 - it will not come out any more!

[Guns Are Great 140]

Well My definitive fix was taking a MIG welder at my father-inlaws and touching the pin/fixture crease then filing smooth. It should never unintentally move again (Spring is fine!). However, the AK Builder roll pin method mentioned above, I really do like and would use in the future! Now that I have this thing bascically kink free it's time to jewel the bolt and duracoat!

Edited March 3, 2012 by Guns Are Great