Fireman550 3 Posted December 26, 2010 Report Share Posted December 26, 2010 I recently bought a new Saiga 12 and did the conversion thanks to Carolina Shooter's Supply an helpful videos. I searched the forum and found out 2 of my 3 gas ports were obstructed with the gas block. I followed the link on removing the gas block, redrilled the ports to 3/32, put in a plug from MD Arms and have her running like a sewing machine. she will even cycly Wal Mart low brass Winchester. Thanks a lot to everyone and Merry Christimas! 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
echoside190 127 Posted December 26, 2010 Report Share Posted December 26, 2010 Congrats on the conversion and getting her to cycle the low brass reliably, stay safe and happy holidays! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted December 26, 2010 Report Share Posted December 26, 2010 Video? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tram 11 Posted December 26, 2010 Report Share Posted December 26, 2010 Sweet! I'm still getting some FTE's on Federal Bulk with one of mine... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stansplace 414 Posted December 26, 2010 Report Share Posted December 26, 2010 Video or it didn't happen. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ohthejoy 0 Posted December 27, 2010 Report Share Posted December 27, 2010 I recently bought a new Saiga 12 and did the conversion thanks to Carolina Shooter's Supply an helpful videos. I searched the forum and found out 2 of my 3 gas ports were obstructed with the gas block. I followed the link on removing the gas block, redrilled the ports to 3/32, put in a plug from MD Arms and have her running like a sewing machine. she will even cycly Wal Mart low brass Winchester. Thanks a lot to everyone and Merry Christimas! Fireman550, please share with us where this link was that helped you remove your gas block. Thanks!! Ohthejoy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman550 3 Posted December 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2010 http://forum.saiga-1...showtopic=33836 Here is the link. It was straight foward all the way. I only used one shelf bracket with a little duct tape to protect the gas block. Take a look at your ports before removing the gas block to see if they are blocked and how much to file away. Best of luck! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trickey99 10 Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 http://forum.saiga-1...showtopic=33836 Here is the link. It was straight foward all the way. I only used one shelf bracket with a little duct tape to protect the gas block. Take a look at your ports before removing the gas block to see if they are blocked and how much to file away. Best of luck! I followed the same thread and just this weekend opened my ports, and ended up adding 2 more for a total of 5, 3@3/32 and 2@5/64 to finally get it running smooth. Runs like a champ now! These directions were very easy to follow, and helped me tremendously. I had help from my Bro', but if we can do it, almost anyone can! Good Luck to all those who DIY, its not as complex as you think, just take your time and use common sense. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 http://forum.saiga-1...showtopic=33836 Here is the link. It was straight foward all the way. I only used one shelf bracket with a little duct tape to protect the gas block. Take a look at your ports before removing the gas block to see if they are blocked and how much to file away. Best of luck! I followed the same thread and just this weekend opened my ports, and ended up adding 2 more for a total of 5, 3@3/32 and 2@5/64 to finally get it running smooth. Runs like a champ now! These directions were very easy to follow, and helped me tremendously. I had help from my Bro', but if we can do it, almost anyone can! Good Luck to all those who DIY, its not as complex as you think, just take your time and use common sense. How short is your barrel? Did you do your extractor slot? Polish & profile everything including CORRECTLY profiling the hammer? Did you have a quad rail clamped on it? There is a lot other than just ports to these guns operation. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ohthejoy 0 Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 When opening up the gas ports to 3/32, do you have to drill them at an angle like the original ports, or can you drill them out straight down? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trickey99 10 Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 http://forum.saiga-1...showtopic=33836 Here is the link. It was straight foward all the way. I only used one shelf bracket with a little duct tape to protect the gas block. Take a look at your ports before removing the gas block to see if they are blocked and how much to file away. Best of luck! I followed the same thread and just this weekend opened my ports, and ended up adding 2 more for a total of 5, 3@3/32 and 2@5/64 to finally get it running smooth. Runs like a champ now! These directions were very easy to follow, and helped me tremendously. I had help from my Bro', but if we can do it, almost anyone can! Good Luck to all those who DIY, its not as complex as you think, just take your time and use common sense. How short is your barrel? Did you do your extractor slot? Polish & profile everything including CORRECTLY profiling the hammer? Did you have a quad rail clamped on it? There is a lot other than just ports to these guns operation. My barrel is 18.5" with the brake which is 4", so I have 14.5" of solid barrel. My gun ran like butter from the factory, shot everything l put in it. Then l had it converted, chopped the barrel and attached the brake, added CSS tri-rail, stock, and it wouldnt shoot without FTE's. So l polished the rails, still FTE'd, Polished the hammer, bolt & carrier @ points of friction, still had FTE's. Checked hole in gas block, it wasnt obstructin my gas ports, so l decided to open ports a little. Opened my 3 ports to 3/32, still wouldnt shoot, added 4th port @5/64, still wouldnt shoot as good as it needed, would get 4-5 shots off low brass before FTE. So l took it apart yet again and added a 5th port @ 5/64 and have since ran 150 rds thru her with only 1 FTE. Plan on running more thru her soon though. I understand that once you start drilling, there's no going back so I tried everything l could before getting to the ports. After its all said and done, she is running like the beast she is supposed to be;-) I have an T.A.R.G.E.T. gas plug which will help compensate for overgassing if that occurs, but right now, she is in that sweet spot between under and over gassing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 (edited) When opening up the gas ports to 3/32, do you have to drill them at an angle like the original ports, or can you drill them out straight down? Thanks At an angle. Keep the angle. An easy way to do this, is to set it up in your drill press with a 5/64 bit slipping in the ports, then clamp down & change to a 3/32 drill or milling bit. Edited December 28, 2010 by Paulyski 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trickey99 10 Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 When opening up the gas ports to 3/32, do you have to drill them at an angle like the original ports, or can you drill them out straight down? Thanks I am not an expert by any means, but l followed the angle on mine. Remember, you only get one chance to do it right, so why screw around? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 http://forum.saiga-1...showtopic=33836 Here is the link. It was straight foward all the way. I only used one shelf bracket with a little duct tape to protect the gas block. Take a look at your ports before removing the gas block to see if they are blocked and how much to file away. Best of luck! I followed the same thread and just this weekend opened my ports, and ended up adding 2 more for a total of 5, 3@3/32 and 2@5/64 to finally get it running smooth. Runs like a champ now! These directions were very easy to follow, and helped me tremendously. I had help from my Bro', but if we can do it, almost anyone can! Good Luck to all those who DIY, its not as complex as you think, just take your time and use common sense. How short is your barrel? Did you do your extractor slot? Polish & profile everything including CORRECTLY profiling the hammer? Did you have a quad rail clamped on it? There is a lot other than just ports to these guns operation. My barrel is 18.5" with the brake which is 4", so I have 14.5" of solid barrel. Cool. 14.5" of barrel would require more than 3 @ 3/32. I'm really glad to hear that. I was like, NOOOOOO!!!! He went ape shit on 'em!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trickey99 10 Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 I'm really glad to hear that. I was like, NOOOOOO!!!! He went ape shit on 'em!!! Well I was surprised when l kept having to go back into her to open her up more, but l did it step by step, and fired in between every mod to make sure. 5 ports sounds kinda extreme to me too, but thats what it took to get her running like l want. The main thing l will say about it is that almost anyone can do these mods, but you have to do them in order like Paulyski says. Polish friction points 1st, check gas block hole, then if you have to open ports, take the time and do as minimal as possible, and test fire after each mod to see if problem still exists. Sure it takes time to reassemble and dissasemble each time, but you really do only have one shot at drilling your ports properly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ohthejoy 0 Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 When opening up the gas ports to 3/32, do you have to drill them at an angle like the original ports, or can you drill them out straight down? Thanks At an angle. Keep the angle. An easy way to do this, is to set it up in your drill press with a 5/64 bit slipping in the ports, then clamp down & change to a 3/32 drill or milling bit. Dude thats an awesome pic!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ohthejoy 0 Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 Good work my fellow Brother in Arms! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 I've always been adamant that all my firearms are combat ready. Hopefully, I'll only have to play in the woods, but you never know when you, your wife, or your kid may have to grab your "toy" & defend their, & possibly your lives with it. For that reason, I'll never make a gun to only have long term reliability with low brass, or only cycle high brass... What if we only have birdshot when times get tough? On the flip side, it would suck to have a rod or carrier break from an overgassed gun. I won't have 2nd rate mags around for this exact reason. I feel if our second amendment gives us, not the right... But the DUTY to keep & bear arms, those arms should be reliable, durable & perfect before the SHTF, if God forbid, it does. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ohthejoy 0 Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 I've always been adamant that all my firearms are combat ready. Hopefully, I'll only have to play in the woods, but you never know when you, your wife, or your kid may have to grab your "toy" & defend their, & possibly your lives with it. For that reason, I'll never make a gun to only have long term reliability with low brass, or only cycle high brass... What if we only have birdshot when times get tough? On the flip side, it would suck to have a rod or carrier break from an overgassed gun. I won't have 2nd rate mags around for this exact reason. I feel if our second amendment gives us, not the right... But the DUTY to keep & bear arms, those arms should be reliable, durable & perfect before the SHTF, if God forbid, it does. Bro, we are definitely on the same wavelength!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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