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New problen with saiga 12


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Well after trying everything else to fire low brass on 2 i drilled my ports to 3 32 .Now it is running the low brass some what. But it is not chambering a round after the first round the next round is not resetting the trigger each time with hi or low brass. what did i do wrong?

 

 

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Well after trying everything else to fire low brass on 2 i drilled my ports to 3 32 .Now it is running the low brass some what. But it is not chambering a round after the first round the next round is not resetting the trigger each time with hi or low brass. what did i do wrong?

 

Is what you mean by; "the next round is not resetting the trigger each time", that you must push the trigger forward? Then when you pull it, it fires?

 

If so, then one of the legs of your mainspring (hammer spring) likely walked toward the center of the trigger legs. Likely the BHO side spring leg.

This is a VERY common issue.

 

To remedy, simply put a small outward bend in the middle of the offending leg of the mainspring.

 

The very end of the mainspring's legs slipping inward at all, can produce this symptom.

The very ends must remain on the trigger legs for leverage.

 

 

As for your statement; "it is not chambering a round after the first round"

I would first ask what magazines are you using? What ammo? And, what exactly it happening?

Is the tip of a shell jamming somewhere? Where? Or is it just leaving the rounds neatly stacked in the mag?

 

FTF issues are most commonly caused by US mags.

This is why it's imperative to do baseline testing on the Russian factory mags.

Sometimes they can not keep up to the gun without tuning.

Not to say the Russian factory mag can NEVER hiccup, it's just very rarely that they do.

 

There are different methods for the tuning of each brand of US mags.

Edited by Paulyski
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Well after trying everything else to fire low brass on 2 i drilled my ports to 3 32 .Now it is running the low brass some what. But it is not chambering a round after the first round the next round is not resetting the trigger each time with hi or low brass. what did i do wrong?

 

Is what you mean by; "the next round is not resetting the trigger each time", that you must push the trigger forward? Then when you pull it, it fires?

 

If so, then one of the legs of your mainspring (hammer spring) likely walked toward the center of the trigger legs. Likely the BHO side spring leg.

This is a VERY common issue.

 

To remedy, simply put a small outward bend in the middle of the offending leg of the mainspring.

 

The very end of the mainspring's legs slipping inward at all, can produce this symptom.

The very ends must remain on the trigger legs for leverage.

 

 

As for your statement; "it is not chambering a round after the first round"

I would first ask what magazines are you using? What ammo? And, what exactly it happening?

Is the tip of a shell jamming somewhere? Where? Or is it just leaving the rounds neatly stacked in the mag?

 

FTF issues are most commonly caused by US mags.

This is why it's imperative to do baseline testing on the Russian factory mags.

Sometimes they can not keep up to the gun without tuning.

Not to say the Russian factory mag can NEVER hiccup, it's just very rarely that they do.

 

There are different methods for the tuning of each brand of US mags.

You have much more patience with vague questions than me.

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Sorry about being so vague on my previous post. I was very aggrivated after working on this gun for 2 days. I had just gotten back from the range and had to get to bed. What it's doing is, when it chambers a round it does not reset the trigger each time only every other shot or so. If I cycle it manually it will reset every time. When I try and shoot high brass on setting 1 is when this accures. It didn't do this until I drilled the ports to 3 32's. I have tried lightly polishing the bolt and rails. This did not help at all. Gun has approx. 300 rounds through it. Don't understand why it will no longer shoot high brass. I have tried the factory mag and my surefire mag. Does same thing with both mags. If the trigger spring is off would it still do it by hand cycling? Would you happen to have a picture of what spring you are talking about. I am shooting Remington double 00 buck. Which this gun has never had a problem cycling until now. Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

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Sorry about being so vague on my previous post. I was very aggrivated after working on this gun for 2 days. I had just gotten back from the range and had to get to bed. What it's doing is, when it chambers a round it does not reset the trigger each time only every other shot or so. If I cycle it manually it will reset every time. When I try and shoot high brass on setting 1 is when this accures. It didn't do this until I drilled the ports to 3 32's. I have tried lightly polishing the bolt and rails. This did not help at all. Gun has approx. 300 rounds through it. Don't understand why it will no longer shoot high brass. I have tried the factory mag and my surefire mag. Does same thing with both mags. If the trigger spring is off would it still do it by hand cycling? Would you happen to have a picture of what spring you are talking about. I am shooting Remington double 00 buck. Which this gun has never had a problem cycling until now. Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

As far as the trigger resetting, they usually do act normally during hand cycling when this anomaly happens.

The part of the mainspring leg that must be all the way "outward" is the part that's bent to make sure it doesn't fall off the trigger leg. (the very last 1/8" or so) It must be up against the inside of the trigger leg, so all the force is directed as far back on the trigger legs as possible. This ensures more leverage. You don't want a heavy bend, just a slight outward bend in the middle of the spring leg to ensure it stays outward all the way.

 

Another thing you could do, it polish up the trigger's axis pin. This will help stuff move too. Same if you can smoothen the inside of that tapco sleeve that I'm guessing you have. If you can pull it out & run a tiny wire brush on a drill through it, that would hone it nicely.

I'm relatively sure you're converted, because this is usually a post-conversion issue. Also, a little oil there never hurts.

I have run into the issue in the past, before I polished my trigger axis pin, of after a through cleaning (like oil removal before paint), then forgetting to oil, then when out, it occurred.

I just put a drop of oil on it & it fixed.

 

But just to be sure we're on the same wavelength, by "trigger not resetting", you do mean, you just need to push the trigger forward to get the hammer out of the disconnecter & then the gun will fire again, right?

People also call the hammer not being caught in the disconnecter "the trigger not resetting."

 

 

Then to the round not chambering.

What is happening?

 

Is the tip of the round jamming somewhere?

If so, where?

Which Surefire? Surefire admits that their 12 round mag cannot lift a full stack 3" reliably The mag's just too long & the spring's too weak. The Surefires function most reliably in their 8 round configuration.

 

ETA; it sounds like you're almost there... Just hang with it. It'll run great.

Edited by Paulyski
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I do have the 12 mag but it did work with this mag before. It's doing the same thing with the factory 5 round. It is chambering the round 99% of the time. I will take a look at the spring. The biggest problem I have other then the trigger problem was my FTE. I have a 3 port gun and the ports were 5 64ths. I went to a tight 3 32. Don't understand why this would cause my high brass not to eject now. Thanks again!

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polish the inner workings of the trigger. I had the same problem... instead of sliding off the catch when you released the trigger, it would stick and you would have to pull the trigger forward. as for the fte... I am assuming that none of the ports are covered and it sounds like the holes are big enough to be giving it enough gas. so it sounds like it may be from putting lube in the gas system. that is a common mistake because when you do that, the only thing it does is give the carbon something to stick too.

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Well, don't do anything yet.

 

Take it out to shoot, but take an oil bottle & a pair of needle nose pliers with you.

 

Shoot & if the hammer fails to come out of the disconnecter & into the trigger hooks, put a drop of oil on the trigger's axis & work it a touch.

 

Also look under your dust cover. Make sure the little bent ends of the spring are touching the trigger legs like they would be if you shoved your pinky finger in there between them.

 

If they move outward at all when you stick your pinky in there, that means they weren't seated properly.

 

This would most likely be the BHO side spring leg. Take your needlenose pliers, & grip the spring leg right about 1/3 of it's length away from the coil around the hammer's axis & slightly twist counter clockwise to slightly bend the spring.

 

They can walk inward by themselves at any time. It just depends.

SLIGHT bends can make all the difference.

 

Also, it may help to polish the top of your hammer where the disconnecter grabs it. DON'T SAND MATERIAL OFF, just polish. & the top of the trigger legs too, being as the spring slides at the trigger moves & friction could work against you there too.

 

Also, now... Surefire 12...

 

Break it down & use a 12-gauge round like you would a feeler gauge in the mouth of the mag.

There should not be contact on both sides of the shell at the same time.

If there is, take a socket or something similar that's slightly larger in diameter than a 12 gauge shell I shove it in the top of the mag. Then boil some water & dip the top of the mag in for about 10 or so seconds.

Let it air dry till cool.

Any drag on the shells from the mouth of the mag will slow them enough to cause issues with improper feeding.

If the shell isn't up high enough when the bolt hits it, the angle will be wrong & either a FTF will occur, or it may rob so much energy from the cycle, that the round doesn't go into full battery.

 

 

Then grasp the very ends of the mag's spring & stretch it slightly adding about 6" in length to increase pressure.

It wouldn't hurt to spray a touch of silicone spray in the mag body either.

 

If you want full reliability with 3' magnum with a surefire, cut it down to 8.

Edited by Paulyski
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