7 replies to this topic

[Paul Michael Pawlowski]

Pauly's Steelin' Custom Fabrication is now NO LONGER offering a Russian Red wood finishing service for laminate stocks!!!!

I have perfected the process of making a truly beautiful match to the long loved & lost Russian red on laminate takeoff stocks.

It has a three dimensional depth that actually changes color as the light hits it from different angles!

The secret is in density & drying times when applied to the changing plys of laminate stocks & the lighter colored wood.

This will work best on lighter colored woods & laminate, such as eastern bloc takeoff stocks.
The beauty is unmatched.

Pauly's Steelin Custom Fabrication & firearms accessories also offers the service of fitting AKM fore grips and all takeoff stamped AK butt-stocks to the Saiga-12 shotgun!!!!

Here's an example of how, with my finish's rich depth, the fun actually appears to change color depending on the angle, or spectrum of the light;

This is the same Russian Take-off wood Before my finish;

Fees are as follows;

$0.00 BECAUSE I NO LONGER OFFER THE SERVICE!

Edited by PauIy, 14 October 2012 - 09:00 AM.

[Roan]

In the future, if this becomes popular, are there any plans to sell already completed furniture sets?

I really like the color. In the near future, I may have to get this done.

[Paul Michael Pawlowski]

In the future, if this becomes popular, are there any plans to sell already completed furniture sets?

Yes.

[stephenlc]

may I ask where I can buy a 3 piece wood set like the one you have in the picture?

[Paul Michael Pawlowski]

I no longer offer this service, as the process takes too long to do to my liking and be profitable.

If anyone wants my "Russian Red" formula, it's 75% Minwax Red Mahogany 25% Minwax Sadona Red.

-Strip the wood to bare if needed

-If using takeoff stocks, slight divots can be removed with stream by masking around the divot, then put water in a rice steamer, or pot that has a lid with a hole in the lid to allow directed steam to form then, heat & wait for the forced steam stream to develop, then you can swell the divot out with the steam.

-Let dry

-Sand with the grain. (a progression of sanding spounges is what I use)

-Mix the stain in a disposable container, then with a sponge brush do a heavy coat of stain and wait about an hour, then without wiping anything off, do another heavy coat to re-coat the areas that drank up the previous coat.

-let the heavy coat dry for a few days, to a week. You want it nearly dry, but slightly tacky.

-Then take a cloth, and LIGHTLY wipe of excess a touch. Don't go hard, or you'll remove too much & make it too light.

-Now let it dry inside for another week so it's pretty darn dry.

-Once it's pretty darn dry, I lightly buff it with .0000 steel wool, then I apply a thin coat of fast drying Minwax High Gloss polyurethane varnish with another sponge brush, and let it dry a day.

-Once dry, buff very lightly with .0000 steel wool, and apply another coat.

-Repeat again if desired.

-Once completely cured, which takes about a week indoors, I ever so lightly buff the high gloss finish with .0000 steel wool to bring the shine down a touch to more of a satin finish.

If done just like the above, one can achieve that beautiful, sought after deep 3-D looking classic show-gun quality Russian Red finish. without it looking like cheap Chinese takeoffs, just darker.

Sources for wood stocks are vendors such as Ironwood Designs for brand new US made Saiga furniture, Rhineland Arms for PSL furniture (possibly convertible for the Vepr's slant receiver with a touch of creativity) and Apex Gun Parts, among other places for foreign AK Takeoff stocks.

Good luck, and have fun.

[CAKfan]

Trying your method on some Polish surplus for my new SAM7r Paul. This is the 3rd coat, wiping off excess after 30 min then drying 8 hrs before another coat. When it's dry can I just coat it with tung oil for the sheen instead of the poly clear coat? http://i20.photobuck...zpsc186acb8.jpg

Edited by CAKfan, 13 April 2013 - 08:12 PM.

[saiga12noober]

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="CAKfan" data-cid="889726" data-time="1365880054"><p>
Trying your method on some Polish surplus for my new SAM7r Paul. This is the 3rd coat, wiping off excess after 30 min then drying 8 hrs before another coat. When it's dry can I just coat it with tung oil for the sheen instead of the poly clear coat? <a href='http://i20.photobuck...zpsc186acb8.jpg'>http://i20.photobuck...zpsc186acb8.jpg</a></p></blockquote>

Jees. I didn't mean to copy. I wanted to say it looks very good and will be better when finished

[CAKfan]

Here it is completed. I had to modify the bayonet to have it lock on the lug. I have a set of bake lite furniture (upper / lower hand guard, pistol grip) coming to me to change up the look of the rifle. Also got some bake lite mags coming too.

 

Edited by CAKfan, 30 April 2013 - 01:36 AM.