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What to you use to paint your Saiga after conversion?


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Dont get the Duplicolor flat black. It doesnt really match, I mean its not the end of the world ( yet :ph34r: ) but it still looks great.

 

Duplicolor LOW GLOSS is the right one.

 

If you had both eyes then you might have read it correctly.:rolleyes:

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what is CLP? i was thinking of using BBQ grill hi temp black paint.

CLP Break Free is a common compound that 'cleans, lubricates, and protects.' Generally good stuff!' My gunsmith uses it as well as another product 'FP10.'

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Sharpie...it was cool before the BBQ paint but it won't hold up either

 

You people actually "clean" these shotguns? WHY?

I read posts and replies on this forum and it's like you folks think these things are Belgium made Browning Pigeon Grade Superposed Trap/Skeet guns.

 

Only thing I've ever put in mine is Simichrome Polish from Happich and flush with kerosene when I feel like it is slick enough. I guess a semigloss black motorcycle or header exhaust paint that has a high ceramic compound as it's left behind substrate (after the VOC has occurred ) would be the way I'd go if I was the painting of an AK type person...to each his own

 

I've always though my FAL's and AK's looked better as the finish wore off.

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I used Flat Black Rustoleum 2000 degree Engine Paint (baked on).

 

It has a slight gray-black color but I painted the whole rifle.

Get the metal hot to the touch before applying.

One coat appears resistant to solvent unless you scrub hard on it. Multiple coats would be best.

Acetone, scotchbrite, and lots of time to strip it all off, if needed.

Easy to touch-up but a little tricky to get a uniform appearance.

 

It holds oil really well for added corrosion resistance.

 

Looks parkerized.

 

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That Duplicolor engine paint. Would that be DE1634? Got it primed last night but my local Auto Zone doesn't carry any Duplicolor in low gloss. Only flat or high gloss.

 

You'll have to shop around....try all the auto zones and orielly's in your area, and you will find some.

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Had to look all over for the stuff. Most auto stores just didn't carry it, or it had been replaced with Rustoleum's equivalent, which I already had some of, and found that it didn't match at all, not even close.

 

Finally found an O'Reilly's that had DE1634 in stock, so I bought three cans of it. Even several other O'Reilly's didn't have it in stock. Not sure what that's about.

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I've been using an indoor outdoor flat black laquer paint from Ace hardware, and the finish matchest almost exactly to the factory finish on the Saiga-12. The brand is Ace harware and Ace aparently manufactures it themselves. I like it because it's durable and the color match is so close that I can't tell the differance. I recently used some of the Duplicolor lowgloss black on an S-12 coversion and I did'nt like the color match as well. It's not as dark as the Saiga-12 finish and it looks more like a dark charcoal than flat black. The Ace harware indoor outdoor laquer does a much better job and matches the factory finish almost perfectly. That's my 2 cents.

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I've been using an indoor outdoor flat black laquer paint from Ace hardware, and the finish matchest almost exactly to the factory finish on the Saiga-12. The brand is Ace harware and Ace aparently manufactures it themselves. I like it because it's durable and the color match is so close that I can't tell the differance. I recently used some of the Duplicolor lowgloss black on an S-12 coversion and I did'nt like the color match as well. It's not as dark as the Saiga-12 finish and it looks more like a dark charcoal than flat black. The Ace harware indoor outdoor laquer does a much better job and matches the factory finish almost perfectly. That's my 2 cents.

Why try to match the paint? Paint the whole gun instead and it will look great. Less taping required also.
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I have painted the whole gun in some cases, but I've also done them where only the receiver required refinishing after the trigger holes were welded and the conversion was complete. Personaly, I like to keep the factory finish on the gun as much as possible, and if the reciever is the only peice needing to be refinished, than why not do that and leave the rest of the finish intact? Especially on a brand new gun that runs without having to fiddle fu%k the gas block off in order to expose/open the gas ports.

Edited by macaholic
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