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Stock trigger group improvment, Sand paper?


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I have not recieved my new rifle yet, so I have not had the chance to pull the trigger. I have heard that the stock trigger is heavy and sloppy. I really have no desire to move the FCG forward, yet. Would there be anything you can do with sand paper to at least make it smoother? Before I would replace it, do I have any options for an easy fix? or at least make it a little better?

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I have not recieved my new rifle yet, so I have not had the chance to pull the trigger. I have heard that the stock trigger is heavy and sloppy. I really have no desire to move the FCG forward, yet. Would there be anything you can do with sand paper to at least make it smoother? Before I would replace it, do I have any options for an easy fix? or at least make it a little better?

 

There are a more parts in the imported FCG, so I doubt much sanding and smoothing of parts would make much of a difference. Then again I've never tried. However, I'm of the mindset that after a few hundred rounds you'll end with the same results.

 

Ymmv.

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I really have no desire to move the FCG forward, yet.

 

lol. Just wait. I said the same thing and converted after I got home from the range. I wouldn't waste five minutes doing anything other than "restoring it."

 

 

Ive spent enough for now and truthfully I dont have very much to compare it to. Ill see what I can do with it (if anything) and go from there. Ill be happy enough to get a stock saiga rifle and slap on a cheap cheap t6 with the pistol grip. that should do for now. Ive already told the old lady that she will have a nice selection of christmas presents for next year. Can I use the factory 10 rd mags with the tapco t6,anyone know?

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Can I use the factory 10 rd mags with the tapco t6,anyone know?

 

No, you will be in violation of 922R if you replace the factory stock and add a pistol grip. The only way to be compliant is to move the FCG forward ( best option, and you can use foreign mags ), or use U.S. mags. 5 U.S. parts is what you will need when adding a pistol grip.

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Shot at least a couple hundred rounds though the rifle before converting just to make sure everything is working well, conversion voids the warranty. In all helpfulness if you have to ask a question like sanding the factory trigger to help it you really shouldn't do so. The factory trigger is marginal at best, its only saving grace is that it allows the rifle to be imported.

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In all helpfulness if you have to ask a question like sanding the factory trigger to help it you really shouldn't do so.

 

That is total bull. Almost like the old saw if you have to ask how much you can't afford it. People ask questions to learn not to get condescending answers. If nothing else a helpful no and this is why not would be in all helpfulness.

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In all helpfulness if you have to ask a question like sanding the factory trigger to help it you really shouldn't do so.

 

That is total bull. Almost like the old saw if you have to ask how much you can't afford it. People ask questions to learn not to get condescending answers. If nothing else a helpful no and this is why not would be in all helpfulness.

 

 

my sentiments exactly, Well put. In most other cases, with my guns, some polishing can do wonders for contacting parts. Maybe Ill learn the hard way

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my sentiments exactly, Well put. In most other cases, with my guns, some polishing can do wonders for contacting parts. Maybe Ill learn the hard way

 

 

its not pointless to polish the pieces. i would not recommend pulling the FCG out to do it though. The effort to reinstall outweighs the result. The way the factory FCG is designed with the extra linkage between trigger and disconnector creates a lot of the poor trigger issue. Polishing will do nothing for this piece. I would just do the contacting metal points on the FCG. Also do your rails where the bolt carrier slides.

Edited by GregM1
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I've never used sandpaper on a fire control group. I have used cotton bullet tips on my dremel with some polishing compound or a rubber abrasive impregnated wheel for the dremel.

 

 

Im not much into metal work so this will be mostly new to me. I will have to get some type of high rpm tool to do that. Would a cotton tip with polish work with a cordless drill?

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my sentiments exactly, Well put. In most other cases, with my guns, some polishing can do wonders for contacting parts. Maybe Ill learn the hard way

 

 

its not pointless to polish the pieces. i would not recommend pulling the FCG out to do it though. The effort to reinstall outweighs the result. The way the factory FCG is designed with the extra linkage between trigger and disconnector creates a lot of the poor trigger issue. Polishing will do nothing for this piece. I would just do the contacting metal points on the FCG. Also do your rails where the bolt carrier slides.

 

 

I ll have to dig into it and see what the FCG looks like. I am a big fan of polishing contact surfaces, I dont think it could hurt.

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I've never used sandpaper on a fire control group. I have used cotton bullet tips on my dremel with some polishing compound or a rubber abrasive impregnated wheel for the dremel.

 

 

i am referring to 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper for car refinishing. very smooth piece of sandpaper. i also use a dremel for polishing.

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I've never used sandpaper on a fire control group. I have used cotton bullet tips on my dremel with some polishing compound or a rubber abrasive impregnated wheel for the dremel.

 

 

Im not much into metal work so this will be mostly new to me. I will have to get some type of high rpm tool to do that. Would a cotton tip with polish work with a cordless drill?

 

A Q-Tip will fall apart on either a dremel or drill. You will need a cloth polishing wheel like this to get any real results.

 

post-4669-0-89503400-1299081718_thumb.jpg

 

I would recommend getting polishing compound as well.

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I've never used sandpaper on a fire control group. I have used cotton bullet tips on my dremel with some polishing compound or a rubber abrasive impregnated wheel for the dremel.

 

 

Im not much into metal work so this will be mostly new to me. I will have to get some type of high rpm tool to do that. Would a cotton tip with polish work with a cordless drill?

 

A Q-Tip will fall apart on either a dremel or drill. You will need a cloth polishing wheel like this to get any real results.

 

post-4669-0-89503400-1299081718_thumb.jpg

 

I would recommend getting polishing compound as well.

 

No, I wont be putting q-tips in my drill. cool thanks for the pics

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I've never used sandpaper on a fire control group. I have used cotton bullet tips on my dremel with some polishing compound or a rubber abrasive impregnated wheel for the dremel.

 

 

Im not much into metal work so this will be mostly new to me. I will have to get some type of high rpm tool to do that. Would a cotton tip with polish work with a cordless drill?

 

A Q-Tip will fall apart on either a dremel or drill. You will need a cloth polishing wheel like this to get any real results.

 

post-4669-0-89503400-1299081718_thumb.jpg

 

I would recommend getting polishing compound as well.

 

No, I wont be putting q-tips in my drill. cool thanks for the pics

 

That's a cotton bullet tip at the far left of the picture. If you buy a boxed dremel kit it usually comes with all attachments needed and a small container of polishing compound. It is all you need to polish a fire control group correctly to a mirror finish.

 

here are instructions http://www.novarata.net/Linx310/fcg.shtml

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my sentiments exactly, Well put. In most other cases, with my guns, some polishing can do wonders for contacting parts. Maybe Ill learn the hard way

 

 

its not pointless to polish the pieces. i would not recommend pulling the FCG out to do it though. The effort to reinstall outweighs the result. The way the factory FCG is designed with the extra linkage between trigger and disconnector creates a lot of the poor trigger issue. Polishing will do nothing for this piece. I would just do the contacting metal points on the FCG. Also do your rails where the bolt carrier slides.

 

 

Got my rifle yesterday, NOW I understand. That linkage would probably make polishing almost useless. If it was rough Im sure it would work to a certain degree, but with 2 moving parts before the FCG theres alot of contact to overcome. Mine was very lightly used and all surfaces seem alright. THANKS FELLAS

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In all helpfulness if you have to ask a question like sanding the factory trigger to help it you really shouldn't do so.

 

That is total bull. Almost like the old saw if you have to ask how much you can't afford it. People ask questions to learn not to get condescending answers. If nothing else a helpful no and this is why not would be in all helpfulness.

 

There are so many things you can do wrong with sandpaper and trigger group in particular if a person is inexperienced. Accidental Discharges can get people killed. You want to sand it go ahead but that does not mean you should.

 

Polishing is completely different matter and was not asked about by the OP.

 

My tone was not intended to insult and apologies to the OP if it did, but this next however will be, directed as it is toward the replier above. Anyone that puts ego and firearms ahead of common sense is a complete dumb-ass and a dangerous one at that.

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In all helpfulness if you have to ask a question like sanding the factory trigger to help it you really shouldn't do so.

 

That is total bull. Almost like the old saw if you have to ask how much you can't afford it. People ask questions to learn not to get condescending answers. If nothing else a helpful no and this is why not would be in all helpfulness.

 

There are so many things you can do wrong with sandpaper and trigger group in particular if a person is inexperienced. Accidental Discharges can get people killed. You want to sand it go ahead but that does not mean you should.

 

Polishing is completely different matter and was not asked about by the OP.

 

My tone was not intended to insult and apologies to the OP if it did, but this next however will be, directed as it is toward the replier above. Anyone that puts ego and firearms ahead of common sense is a complete dumb-ass and a dangerous one at that.

 

I took no offense what so ever. Being as my trigger pull is better than I could have ever imagined, none of this is necessary. But by alot of the talk on this forum, youd think that its like picking up a cinder block with a string and waiting for it to break. My trigger is very nice, stock rifle or not, its a very enjoyable, controllable trigger to pull.

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Being as my trigger pull is better than I could have ever imagined, none of this is necessary. But by alot of the talk on this forum, youd think that its like picking up a cinder block with a string and waiting for it to break. My trigger is very nice, stock rifle or not, its a very enjoyable, controllable trigger to pull.

 

uh oh... =).

 

Haha yes my 7.62 has the stock trigger group too, I only wanted to spend the money to convert the 5.45 at first. It's not terrible at all.

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uh oh... =).

 

Haha yes my 7.62 has the stock trigger group too, I only wanted to spend the money to convert the 5.45 at first. It's not terrible at all.

 

Now the 5.45 is a long range animal. Thats the one I would do first. My x39 ammo probably wont fly over 100 yds for a while, until I get a scope or a really big target. Or if im huntin geese

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, I polished the FCGs contact points. And to my surprise it did smooth out the pull a little bit. Of course there is still the long take up due to the linkage, so I pull it in two stages. When the trigger is pushing on the sear the polished surfaces really cut down on the grittyness. Im happy.... for now.

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I've never used sandpaper on a fire control group. I have used cotton bullet tips on my dremel with some polishing compound or a rubber abrasive impregnated wheel for the dremel.

 

 

Is this wheel flat ? I bought a dremel polishing kit and it comes with two grey wheels, are the same size as the large cotton ones?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I know this is an old thread, but I figured I would reply to this instead of making a new one about this topic. I think it is a good idea to sand smooth the stock trigger components for helping out with a finer trigger pull on a stock Saiga.

 

For those who are on a budget and actually don't mind having your Saiga stock I can understand doing this method and it does make a substantial difference on the trigger pull. If maybe you don't have the tools or resources just yet to convert I would recommend trying it out after doing it myself.

 

The other night I just tried experimenting with some 220 grit sandpaper to see if I could do anything with the sketchy trigger pull before giving up and trying a conversion. I was on the fence about it though, I really don't mind the stock saiga. I actually like it sorta stock but I just wanted to improve that damn trigger. I sanded smooth the trigger hook where it contacts the hammer to an oval shape and smoothed off any corners. Than I sanding the point on the hammer where the trigger hook connects to at a 45 degree angel towards the trigger hook. I just smoothed everything out and put a drop of oil and I was done in 10 minutes. It made a big jump in improving the overall smoothness and pull. Its not "great" but now its actually pretty acceptable and much improved than what it was.

 

If all you have access to is some 220 grit sandpaper and you just want to smooth things out, this is a great way for the poor man to get by without having to break the bank. I honestly have not converted any Saiga's to compare the trigger but I can say this makes a very noticeable improvement. Certainly smoothed things out enough so now my shots are not unexpected, things are much more crisp now. I wouldn't recommend taking too much metal off, but just a bit can make a noticeable difference.

 

I know someone will probably complain I should just convert and get it over with, I know I know.... but this is just a way to get by if you just want to spend more money on beer and you don't have enough for your gun.

 

Just my 2 cents. :beer:

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