G-30 8 Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 I just got out to test my S12 after converting it and had multiple FTEs with Fed #7.5 bulk pac. Before the conversion I took it out and ran about 200 rounds of Fed #7.5 bulk pak through it with no issues at all. I used CSS conversion kit #7 and installed a Chaos extended quad rail. Below is a pic of the FTE, I am thinking I might need to polish the new hammer and try it again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
xxxpez 5 Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 If you swapped out several things at once you might want to get back to stock as possible and take her back out. Use your stock 5 rounder and as close to stock as possible then start adding your new parts one at a time so you can pinpoint was is causing the FTE's. I don't own a drum but I have heard they take more gas to run. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Put the stock handgaurd back on it and try again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmzzl 146 Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 (edited) I'm in the same boat as you bro. What would changing the stock handguard do? I read something about the handguard has to be partially covering up the gas vent. Edited March 6, 2011 by jmzzl Quote Link to post Share on other sites
volkov 318 Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 not uncommon- no worries you'll get it running. Like others have said, you just need to locate the problem. Have you checked your port size? I know it ran fine before the conversion but it may of been just barely enough gas. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone Star Arms 2,047 Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=50747 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmzzl 146 Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Just ran 30 rounds down the pipe with the factory hand guard. Same problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G-30 8 Posted March 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Well I just checked things out and it looks like the bolt carrier is catching some on the new hammer, the old hammer is more profiled and polished. It might just be enough resistence to keep the bolt from cycling all the way back. I am going to order a retaining plate for my pins so I dont have to mess with trying to get the shepards crook back in again, then reinstall the old hammer and see what happens. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G-30 8 Posted March 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 not uncommon- no worries you'll get it running. Like others have said, you just need to locate the problem. Have you checked your port size? I know it ran fine before the conversion but it may of been just barely enough gas. I know its part of the ride and helps a person learn more about their firearms, I have not checked the size but do have a four port. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Just ran 30 rounds down the pipe with the factory hand guard. Same problem. Process of elimination. Now start looking at other parts that were changed at the same time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmzzl 146 Posted March 7, 2011 Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 (edited) Just ran 30 rounds down the pipe with the factory hand guard. Same problem. Process of elimination. Now start looking at other parts that were changed at the same time. The only parts that weren't factory were the FCG, and of course the pistol grip and buttstock. I do notice quite a bit of resistance between the hammer and bolt carrier. nvm. Edited March 7, 2011 by jmzzl Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jmzzl 146 Posted March 7, 2011 Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 G30, I polished my hammer, and threw the Gunfixers Gas Plug, and light recoil spring and went to test. Polishing the hammer made all the difference. Instead of FTE's every shot, I had one FTF, and about 30 smooth, smooth rounds :]. Polish your hammer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted March 7, 2011 Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 (edited) What FCG's do you guys have, Tromix modified G2 or "off the shelf" G2? If "off the shelf", you will notice visually and by measuring (dial calipers), the difference in hammer profiles/thickness between OE and G2. Its a good idea to mirror the OE hammers profile onto a G2 hammer for best function. Edited March 7, 2011 by Mullet Man Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G-30 8 Posted March 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 What FCG's do you guys have, Tromix modified G2 or "off the shelf" G2? If "off the shelf", you will notice visually and by measuring (dial calipers), the difference in hammer profiles/thickness between OE and G2. Its a good idea to mirror the OE hammers profile onto a G2 hammer for best function. I got my kit from CSS and it was supposed to be a Tromix FCG it Read(922r compliant-Tromix FCG) but it looks like it was not even polished, maybe that is what they are supposed to look like. The hammer has real sharp edges on the surface that the bolt carrier rides over, where the factory hammer has smoother edges on it and seemed to produce less drag. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sapper1371usmc 107 Posted March 7, 2011 Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 The Tromix modified G2's that I have used in the past, have not been modified where the hammer surface makes contact with the bolt carrier, only the hump removed and the right side clearanced for the BHO lever. I suppose this is for liability issues as no two guns are alike and each require their own varying degree of material removal. If you remove to much, you will have an issue of the disconnector catching the hammer after each shot, potentialy setting up a slam fire. Not good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G-30 8 Posted March 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 The Tromix modified G2's that I have used in the past, have not been modified where the hammer surface makes contact with the bolt carrier, only the hump removed and the right side clearanced for the BHO lever. I suppose this is for liability issues as no two guns are alike and each require their own varying degree of material removal. If you remove to much, you will have an issue of the disconnector catching the hammer after each shot, potentialy setting up a slam fire. Not good. Ok thanks that is good to know, does that have to do with making the hammer too light? On the factory hammer it just looks like they smoothed down the edges to reduce the drag on the bolt carrier. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 The Tromix modified G2's that I have used in the past, have not been modified where the hammer surface makes contact with the bolt carrier, only the hump removed and the right side clearanced for the BHO lever. I suppose this is for liability issues as no two guns are alike and each require their own varying degree of material removal. If you remove to much, you will have an issue of the disconnector catching the hammer after each shot, potentialy setting up a slam fire. Not good. Interesting, i have only used standard G2 FCG's and modified them myself. I made the assumption that the Tromix G2 hammer being modified had more done to it besides the hump removal and the axis pin boss shortened for the BHO. At the same time i am making an assumption that all Izzy hammers are of same shape and size. Anyone have multiple Izzy S12 hammers to measure? I have 3 Izzy hammers but only one came out of an S12. In any event, modifying the G2 hammer to mirror the shape and size of the Izzy hammer that came in my S12, has worked out great. I guess the key here is to not get greedy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TTMR 11 Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 My tromix FCG is just like Sapper noted, cut to fit with the BHO and otherwise unmolested. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G-30 8 Posted March 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 Well I got out to test my S-12 again and figured out what the problem is, My Chaos extended quad rail is blocking too much of the gas port on the gas block. I took the top rail off and it ran 100% with fed bulk #7.5 through the two MD-20 drums and the five round factory mag, my two twelve round Surefire mags both fail to feed on the eleventh round for some reason. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tbizzle 18 Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 Well I got out to test my S-12 again and figured out what the problem is, My Chaos extended quad rail is blocking too much of the gas port on the gas block. I took the top rail off and it ran 100% with fed bulk #7.5 through the two MD-20 drums and the five round factory mag, my two twelve round Surefire mags both fail to feed on the eleventh round for some reason. My UTG quad rail did the same thing. Put the stock foregrip back on and no problems. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
STACK 1 Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 Can someone point out exactly what is being blocked? I'm having similar issues ... Thanks in advance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
STACK 1 Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 Disregard: I see exactly what you're talking about. Sunnnoova........... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Razr 23 Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 Disregard: I see exactly what you're talking about. Sunnnoova........... Can you please post some pictures? Going to do my conversion soon and like to know all the issues upfront. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
STACK 1 Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 Sure thing ..... The hole at the bottom of the picture (largest open hole on your gas block) is what was being referenced. Apparently the upper section of the quad rail was blocking this vent. Holy cow - sorry about the size on that pic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Razr 23 Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 Sure thing ..... The hole at the bottom of the picture (largest open hole on your gas block) is what was being referenced. Apparently the upper section of the quad rail was blocking this vent. Good to know. Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
STACK 1 Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 Not a problem - best of luck with your conversion. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YOT 3,743 Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 (edited) Why would you go through the work of converting without doing the polishing and re-profiling before installing the parts???? That makes no sense. That's like wearing your shirt before ironing it. Edited March 13, 2011 by Yeoldetool Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G-30 8 Posted March 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 Why would you go through the work of converting without doing the polishing and re-profiling before installing the parts???? That makes no sense. That's like wearing your shirt before ironing it. If you are talking to me I did reprofile and polish my bolt, carrier and rails before the conversion but I thought the modified tromix hammer did not need it. I have since re-profiled and polished it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
STACK 1 Posted March 13, 2011 Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 Why would you go through the work of converting without doing the polishing and re-profiling before installing the parts???? That makes no sense. That's like wearing your shirt before ironing it. If you are talking to me I did reprofile and polish my bolt, carrier and rails before the conversion but I thought the modified tromix hammer did not need it. I have since re-profiled and polished it. Same here .. I thought the tromix FCG was good-to-go as is. We can't all be as smart as you are Mr. Tool! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G-30 8 Posted March 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2011 Ok I think I have solved the issue, I drilled a hole through the top rail that lines up with the hole in the gas block (There was a black mark on the inside of the rail). It just depends on wether it will let enough gas through. It looks like either the quad rail mounts slightly off or my gas block is canted and this might have contributed to the issue of the vent hole being too restricted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.